Front Driveshaft Questions (1 Viewer)

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Stallings NC
I assume the crossmember got notched with the shackle reversal to clear the driveshaft. Id like to address this. Its my understanding early 60's had a double cardon drive shaft does not. Im curious if i can find an early 60 do we think the extra length of the double cardon joint would give enough clearance to a new crossmember. I would have to change the flange on the pinion and the Tcase so that probably doesnt make sense. I could get one made up as well. The other option is to just clean and box up this crossmember. Any thoughts?
IMG_5792.jpeg
IMG_5793.jpeg
 
A "regular" driveshaft, one with a single u-joint at each end from a 1984+ 60 Series - isn't a bad idea on a shackle reversal. If you go with the double cardan, then the front diff flange needs to be pointed up at the t-case flange - likely requiring an expensive/labor intensive cut & turn on the front axle housing. Or just run what you have, shim the front to get the t-case and diff flanges parallel, and feed it u-joints as required.

Either type of driveshaft will need lengthened by a reputable local driveshaft shop to accommodate a shackle reversal, or you risk the slip joint coming apart and either half of the driveshaft whipsawing through the oil pan. That would make for a bad day followed by a strenuous couple weeks/months putting a new motor in after the old one locked up due to no oil.

I would 100% support the transmission/transfer case, remove the crossmember, clean the rust, weld in some extra support, spray paint, and reinstall with fresh hardware that's still available straight from the dealership. That thing looks a little iffy. I'd do a piece sistered to the bottom, some gussets, and definitely weld along the front lip directly below the driveshaft where it looks like the crossmember might be cracking/splitting. More = better.
 
I think I left out some key info. It's an 85, and already has the shackle reversal. It currently has the regular shaft. I am looking at using the DC joint on the Tcase side to try and get a little more horizontal length before it heads down toward the pinion. It seems to work fine at the moment, but I haven't flexed it a great deal but I am sure it will need to be lengthened. I think if I can get a new driveshaft with a DC on the tcase, I would be able to put back a non hacked up crossmember and be ok.
 
that crossmember looks like a disaster in the making. Perhaps a deadly one. Its vertical support at mid section has been cut out. Genius
Agreed. Looking to address the sketchiness
 
I think I left out some key info. It's an 85, and already has the shackle reversal. It currently has the regular shaft. I am looking at using the DC joint on the Tcase side to try and get a little more horizontal length before it heads down toward the pinion. It seems to work fine at the moment, but I haven't flexed it a great deal but I am sure it will need to be lengthened. I think if I can get a new driveshaft with a DC on the tcase, I would be able to put back a non hacked up crossmember and be ok.
I have a 1982 60 with the intact factory crossmember and factory DC front driveshaft. It does barely clear. I'm convinced that the only reason Toyota put a DC front driveshaft on the early trucks is because they designed the crossmember before thinking about the DS, then had an "oops" on their hands where they needed more forward throw before the driveshaft angled down. Pretty much what you said.

But if you go with the DC front shaft, you might end up doing a cut & turn. I have been running mine with bad angles and it eats about one u-joint per year. That's with about 30-40 days of using the front driveshaft per year (between being on trails and driving in the snow). I had actually planned to go with the type of driveshaft you have because I feel like there's more long term reliability there.

That's if you make that crossmember good. Currently it does not look good. A disaster as OSS says. That would be #1 on my list of things to do this weekend before driving it more.
 
I would just run that driveshaft and fix the rest honestly. That's the best path in my eyes, after four years of dialing in the shackle reversal on my truck anyway. Don't get hung up on replacing the crossmember - just make yours bombproof.

FWIW find the local old school driveshaft shop near you. Bring them two Toyota u-joints (don't get generic ones, don't let them sell you Spicer), and have them come out to your truck with a tape measure. Just say "make it the right length and please install these u-joints". I've had two fronts made from original Toyota cores and it's been $125-175. Cheaper than Tom Woods, perfect length, new Toyota joints, greased, fresh spray paint. For the money I paid they also clearanced the yokes so they wouldn't bind and installed lengthened slip joint splines. For the money it's a no brainer.
 
There are two good driveline shops in the area. I like the idea of showing up and saying "make it right".
 
There are two good driveline shops in the area. I like the idea of showing up and saying "make it right".
Also, you need to pay the photo tax :)

Let's see this 60!
 
Got a build thread in the ONSC section, but here is how she sits at the moment.


IMG_5761.jpeg
 
Tom Woods can make you a DC with the +85 transfer case pattern. Yes, it would get you out past the crossemember.
 
Got a build thread in the ONSC section, but here is how she sits at the moment.


View attachment 3855092
I shouldn't have asked haha. You come in here putting the rest of us to shame!
 
I shouldn't have asked haha. You come in here putting the rest of us to shame!
Its a good truck, but it looks better in the picture than up close.
 

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