Light bulbs for Land Cruisers

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I just upgraded stock lights from a '75 to update my '74. I used the following and they worked great:
1156-CW1W-G 1156 Cool White (these are the small bulbs in the top)
1156-W30 1156 Cool White 18 Degree (used these in the other 2 sockets)

The W30 was a tight fit for the side turn signal but it fit in just fine with some tinkering. These bulbs are very bright and made a world of difference. Highly recommend making the upgrade.
40 Front.webp
 
Led's

This is a great thread, I replaced my headlamps with Vision-X and now all my other lights look dim or yellowish, I guess I am going to have to go all led, and it should actually help with the dimming idle problem these all have. Especially the dash lights, and I didn't even realize my headlight switch was supposed to light up and I have had the 40 for more than 15 years! Thanks to Trollhole and Yooper for all the detailed testing and bulb numbers:clap:
 
Hello, I spoke to Trollhole a little bit ago on a "PM" and have located my flasher unit module but it is clearly different than the one I purchased from Super Bright LED's. I purchased a three prong box type unit which is clearly different than the blinker box I see on my 1980 FJ40.

So, my question is this... In order to now make blinkers and hazards work, do I have to purchase the resistors sold by Super Bright LED's..?? Can anyone help me on this...?? Also, if I have to purchase the resistors, ho do I install them?? As close to the bulbs themselves...? Or does it really matter..?? Do I actually cut through my wiring harness wire to "splice" in the resistor for each bulb location..??

Also, I have tried and tried with little movement other than tipping forward a little and a slight movement upward... But I am unable to remove my dash / panel / gauges unless I really was to "pry" them out... Having never done this before, I do not want to break anything if there is a "special" way or "secret" way to get the gauges / panel out of the dash. I am trying to replace my last few bulbs over to LED's in the panel...

Any help would be greatly appreciated... I am just trying to avoid causing myself more work or expenses by breaking something as I try to "improve" it!

Thanks in advance,

Darius
 
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i was able to tip my gauge cluster out enough to change all the bulbs without disconnecting or removing anything. if that is not your case, go in the engine bay and gently bring all the slack from your speedo cable and push it up towards the firewall and through the firewall while your cluster is unscrewed. the speedo cable is the main resistance. to take it completely out, you have to disconnect speedo cable, multi wire connector and ammeter wires.

EDIT: researching how to wire in the SBled flasher......
EDIT2: in post #9 marshall said he used a 2 prong flasher, one of these i assume. it doesnt matter which because you will have to cut off the connector and either use a modern relay base and butt splice or crimp on some female QD's to the cut wires. no one makes a relay for the old pin layout toyota used way back when.

flashers:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/cf12anl-01-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/781/835/
or
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/fl2-red-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/779/
they both operate silently, no more clicking.

relay base:
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/car-install-supplies/4-pin-relay-socket/1154/2741/
 
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dtskycop, what year is your 40? what flasher unit p/n did you buy from SBled?
read your post again. 1980 it is :) you may be able to use the 3 prong one you bought. the 3rd prong is most likely ground. B is voltage going into the flasher, coming from the hazard switch. L is load being pulled from the turn signal switch and then the actual lights.
 
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Thank you Krusinkid... I will give this a try now... That definitely helps. I love the LED's for sure... I just guess I should have read more posts / other posts talking about this issue. I knew it was related to the flasher module and bought a the 3-prong unit cause I thought that was what I needed... I guess it is, it is just not a simple plug-n-play like I thought it was going to be... But it just took a little more info... I think I will be able to get it now... Fingers crossed. lol

Thank you again...
 
Just my two bits, I have finished the upgrade to LED's on my cluster after reading all the great advice on this thread. I tried to take a picture but it is just dark. That is OK with me, just means it isn't to bright! I rolled with green on every thing and didn't cut out the shields in the cluster. It is very nice and subtle for night driving. So here is what I did...

From SuperBrighLeds.com I purchased ::
Two of these in green for the main cluster lighting ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/206/
Two of these in green for the turn signals and one in blue for the high beams ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/197/
One of these in green for the "light switch" ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bayonet-bulbs/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led/10/
Before settling on the above bulb for the "light switch" I took the "head", part you pull, off and shone a flashlight through it. I confirmed with my son that the letters "LIGHTS" looked green to him also. Hence getting a green LED for it.
They all look great! Now I did just put white LED's in the Dash Pad light over the controls and in the Heater Indicator. Those lenses are green, all look good and match but I ventured into those two lights before running into this post. For the Dash Pad and Heater Indicator I just got some cheese off FleaBay but they do work good. I had to file the board a little for the Heater Indicator. The URL of the auction was ::
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-Xenon-White-Festoon-27-28mm-5050-4-SMD-Dome-Map-LED-Light-Bulbs-DE3022-3528-/201044851606?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecf34fb96&vxp=mtr
Now I have heard of folks referencing this bulb on SuperBrightLeds.com ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/festoon/festoon/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,3022,21,204:
For some it worked, for some it was too fat. I have yet to try. It is 31mm long and that just will not fit in the Heater Indicator. It might in the Dash Pad. As well the width of 10mm will work in the Dash Pad but it a tight squeeze in the Heater Indicator.
Now for the Dope Light, I mean the Dome light I have heard reference to this ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/festoon-series-bulbs/
But once again, this was before finding this post, I purchased ::
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3XFQ58/?tag=ihco-20

I forget now but the original Dope Light measured something like 36mm in length and the original Dash Pad and Heater Indicator bulbs measured something like 28mm in length. And a 10mm to 11mm was tight in width for the Heater Indicator. Check yours. I am not running out and pulling all that apart at the moment but you get the idea on those.

I'm very happy with the out come. As well it is nice to have less draw. I will more than likely venture into the exterior lights but I have a headlight harness to wire up for my new headlights so we'll be dealing with that for the time being. By the way, before you spend a pile of money on some Painless option contact Daniel Stern and get what you need for half the cost. This cat knows his stuff.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
I learned about him from several other posts on this forum.

Forgot to mention check out what kruisinkid mentions above. One can with diligence, replace the bulbs on the cluster without removing it. Stress diligence. And his speedo cable tip is great. Of course if it's been a while since you visited your cluster or never have, pull it, clean it, and lather it with Dielectric Grease.
---
 
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evL MT said:
Just my two bits, I have finished the upgrade to LED's on my cluster after reading all the great advice on this thread. I tried to take a picture but it is just dark. That is OK with me, just means it isn't to bright! I rolled with green on every thing and didn't cut out the shields in the cluster. It is very nice and subtle for night driving. So here is what I did...

From SuperBrighLeds.com I purchased ::
Two of these in green for the main cluster lighting ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-wedge-base/194-led-bulb-5-smd-led-wide-angle-wedge-base/206/
Two of these in green for the turn signals and one in blue for the high beams ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/197/
One of these in green for the "light switch" ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/bayonet-bulbs/ba7s-led-bulb-1-led/10/
Before settling on the above bulb for the "light switch" I took the "head", part you pull, off and shone a flashlight through it. I confirmed with my son that the letters "LIGHTS" looked green to him also. Hence getting a green LED for it.
They all look great! Now I did just put white LED's in the Dash Pad light over the controls and in the Heater Indicator. Those lenses are green, all look good and match but I ventured into those two lights before running into this post. For the Dash Pad and Heater Indicator I just got some cheese off FleaBay but they do work good. I had to file the board a little for the Heater Indicator. The URL of the auction was ::
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-X-Xenon-White-Festoon-27-28mm-5050-4-SMD-Dome-Map-LED-Light-Bulbs-DE3022-3528-/201044851606?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ecf34fb96&vxp=mtr
Now I have heard of folks referencing this bulb on SuperBrightLeds.com ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/search/festoon/festoon/filter/Cross_Reference_Number,3022,21,204:
For some it worked, for some it was too fat. I have yet to try. It is 31mm long and that just will not fit in the Heater Indicator. It might in the Dash Pad. As well the width of 10mm will work in the Dash Pad but it a tight squeeze in the Heater Indicator.
Now for the Dope Light, I mean the Dome light I have heard reference to this ::
http://www.superbrightleds.com/cat/festoon-series-bulbs/
But once again, this was before finding this post, I purchased ::
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A3XFQ58/?tag=ihco-20

I forget now but the original Dope Light measured something like 36mm in length and the original Dash Pad and Heater Indicator bulbs measured something like 28mm in length. And a 10mm to 11mm was tight in width for the Heater Indicator. Check yours. I am not running out and pulling all that apart at the moment but you get the idea on those.

I'm very happy with the out come. As well it is nice to have less draw. I will more than likely venture into the exterior lights but I have a headlight harness to wire up for my new headlights so we'll be dealing with that for the time being. By the way, before you spend a pile of money on some Painless option contact Daniel Stern and get what you need for half the cost. This cat knows his stuff.
http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html
I learned about him from several other posts on this forum.

Forgot to mention check out what kruisinkid mentions above. One can with diligence, replace the bulbs on the cluster without removing it. Stress diligence. And his speedo cable tip is great. Of course if it's been a while since you visited your cluster or never have, pull it, clean it, and lather it with Dielectric Grease.
---
Click to expand...

Thanks for all the links!
 
I had totally forgotten about this thread, but have something that may be of interest to anyone converting to the two or three terminal LED flasher from Super Bright LEDS.

I have a connector socket that will directly fit the two terminal LED Relay part # CF12ANL-01 from Super Bright. I also can make an adapter sub-harness that plugs into the OEM "T" flasher connector one one end and has this connector on the other end. See the bad pic. No cutting of your OEM harness!
I can also make an adapter for the three terminal LED flasher they sell. This flasher has a feature the CF12ANL-01 does not: the clicking sound when activated! It does require a ground. I can make an adapter that would plug into the "T" connector, has a lead with a ring terminal to ground under an existing bolt, and goes to a three terminal socket the three terminal flasher would plug into. I could even make a kit that included the flasher relay.

I updated my web site with this info and pricing. Link in my sig... Look under Misc Electrical IMG_0436.webp CF12ANL-01-led-flasher-storeT.webp IMG_7306.webp
 
Is the list on the first page current now? TH said he would update it when the info was in.
 
I'm looking at upgrades to LED. Is this thread the leading authority on that changeover?

For anyone that has done the change... Are the LED's in the instrument panel too bright? When I drive my wife's car I have to turn her lights way down because I have a hard time adjusting my eyes between the ultrabright speedo and the pitch black night. I really just need it to be slightly visible and not completely unusably dark as mine currently is.
 
The LED's in the instrument panel on mine made the difference between seeing the gauges and not seeing the gauges. Definitely not too bright, for me anyway. And I hate the dazzlingly bright clusters.
 
Don't think so.
 
Trollhole said:
This is all for 75 and newer cruisers.


Brake light
Red
1157-x3X1W: 3 x 1.3 Watt High Power LED BAY15D Bulb
Options: 1157-R3X1W: Red
$16.95x2
$33.90


Rear turn Signal light
Amber
1156-x3X1W: 3 x 1.3 Watt High Power LED BA15S Bulb
Options: 1156-A3X1W: Amber
$16.95x2
$33.90

Reverse light
Cool White
1156-x3X1W: 3 x 1.3 Watt High Power LED BA15S Bulb / 3 x 1.3 Watt High Power LED 1156 Bulb
Options: 1156-W3X1W: Cool White
$16.95x2
$33.90

Front turn Signal light
1156 Amber
1156-x45-T: 45HP-LED BA15S Tower Bulb
Options: 1156-A45-T: 1156 Amber
$24.95x2
$49.90

Front Marker light
Cool White 100 Degree
67-x9: 9-LED BA15S bulb
Options: 67-W9-WV: Cool White 100 Degree
In Stock
$4.99x2
$9.98

or

Cool White
67-x2W: 6 Watt High Power LED BA15S bulb
Options: 67-CW2W: Cool White
In Stock
$16.95x2
$33.90


Front Side Marker light
Amber
67-x2W: 6 Watt High Power LED BA15S bulb
Options: 67-A2W: Amber
$16.95x2
$33.90


Headlight switch light
Blue
BA7s-x: BA7s LED bulb
Options: BA7S-B: Blue
$1.49

Dash board light
Green
3022-xHP4: 4 High Power LED Festoon Bulb
Options: 3022-GHP4: Green
$6.95

Interior light
Warm White
3710-xHP6: 6 High Power LED Festoon Bulb
Options: 3710-WWHP6: Warm White
$14.95


Gauge Cluster turn signal light
Green 90 Degree
WLED-x-x: 1 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb
Options: WLED-G-90: Green 90 Degree
$1.39x2
$2.78


Gauge Cluster Turn Signal light
Blue
WLED-x6: 6 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb
Options: WLED-B6: Blue
$3.54

Gauge Cluster Illumination light
Natural White
WLED-x6: 6 LED T10 Wedge Base Bulb
Options: WLED-NW6: Natural White
$3.74x2
$7.48

Merchandise sub-total: $266.57
Click to expand...

I appreciate the work all here have done in building a quick index for replacing FJ40 lighting with LEDs.

While I used Trollhole's list as guide, I couldn't locate a number of the referenced LEDs by the nomenclature. That said, superbrightled.com had its own LED vehicle bulb finder which suggested different LEDs compared to ih8mud's list.

Including the flasher unit (CF13GL-02: 3 Pin Black European Flasher), the shopping cart came in at $205.30 shipping and tax included.
 
Here is an updated LED bulb schedule that reflects what fits and functions in my 77 FJ40. Many thanks to Trollhole and others above for their insights and information. This list contains the part numbers for SuperBright LED website. The first number in the part numbers below is the base-type number in case you are looking elsewhere.

Turn signals: front and back x4
1156-A18-T: Amber $5.95ea

Front marker light x2
1156-WW18-T: Warm White $5.95ea

Front side marker x2
67-A12-G: Amber $6.95ea

Rear side marker x2
67-R12-G: Red $6.95ea

Brake x2
1157-R18-T: Red $5.95ea

Reverse x2
1156-WW18-T: Warm White $5.95ea

License plate x2
67-W15: Natural White $6.95ea

Interior dome light x1
3710-WWHP6-V2: Warm White $5.95

Dash/knobs x1
3022-WWHP4-V2: Warm White 5630 SMD $4.95ea

Headlight knob x1
BA7S-W: Cool White $0.89ea

Instrument cluster: gauges x2
194-WWHP5: Warm White $4.95ea

Instrument cluster: signals x2
194-G4-32: Green Narrow $2.59ea

Instrument cluster: brights x1
194-B4-32: Blue Narrow $2.59ea

Seat belt/brake indicator lights x2
74-RHP: Red $1.95ea

Total for lights (not including shipping): $134.56


Additional thoughts:

- In order to get the LED blinkers to work I got an LED flasher relay kit part # FLEDKit-C from Mark/FJ40coolerman for $33 including shipping. It is very nicely made and professional looking, has an audible clicking sound, and is plug and play. It bolts in clean and tidy-- so glad I didn't cobble something together.

- I went with warm white light color when ever possible because I like that look and feel. Several options exist for more lumens when you get into natural or cool spectrum.

- I upgraded from 194-WW5 to 194-WWHP5 because I wanted more light for the gauges. They work well, especially with inner shrouds removed.

- I originally got 4 of the 67-W15, 2 for front marker, 2 for lic. plate, but the beam spread and color temp looked pretty funky on the front. The natural color is OK for the lic. plate, but I would rather have a warm white. A warm tower like the reverse/front marker would probably be overkill and might not fit.

- The Superbright LED fitment guide doesn't show the 3710-WWHP6-V2 dome lightbulb as being compatible, but it is and really works great.
 
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