Great work! There’s something really satisfying about bending perfect brake lines.
Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter S4Cruiser
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #242
Started on the block. First up was getting me a clean and orderly work area setup with all my bearings, pistons, rings, etc.
Then I decided to go ahead and chase the head bolt threads. I had previously purchased a m13x1.75 tap but it didn’t want to start ina way that felt normal...so instead of doing something stupid and forcing it I made my own thread chaser. Took an spare head bolt, cut 4 ‘slots’ out of the threads with a dremel cutoff wheel and used it. Ended up working great.
Then got the block side main bearings popped in. The rest will have to wait until tomorrow / the weekend...time to grill some steaks for vday dinner.
Then I decided to go ahead and chase the head bolt threads. I had previously purchased a m13x1.75 tap but it didn’t want to start ina way that felt normal...so instead of doing something stupid and forcing it I made my own thread chaser. Took an spare head bolt, cut 4 ‘slots’ out of the threads with a dremel cutoff wheel and used it. Ended up working great.
Then got the block side main bearings popped in. The rest will have to wait until tomorrow / the weekend...time to grill some steaks for vday dinner.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #243
Crank gently placed in the block and it rotates freely by hand!
Thrust clearance at the 3rd main checked and is in spec!
Plastigauge cut, placed on each crank main journal, new oem shims placed, main caps torqued down...loosen then remove caps. Check plastiguage...all within spec! Remove plastigauge wax.
Install rear main seal, apply some Permatex right stuff to the rear main bearing cap ends, install rest of main caps, torque again...check crank...rotates nice and smooth. Ready for the next steps tomorrow!
Thrust clearance at the 3rd main checked and is in spec!
Plastigauge cut, placed on each crank main journal, new oem shims placed, main caps torqued down...loosen then remove caps. Check plastiguage...all within spec! Remove plastigauge wax.
Install rear main seal, apply some Permatex right stuff to the rear main bearing cap ends, install rest of main caps, torque again...check crank...rotates nice and smooth. Ready for the next steps tomorrow!
- Joined
- Apr 14, 2004
- Threads
- 1,391
- Messages
- 35,256
- Location
- 818-953-9230
- Website
- www.marksoffroad.net
I also use a hand-fluted head bolt to chase the holes in the block. Flute provided by my Chinese cousin: Lo Tec.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #245
Busy but productive day assembling the F135! I likely would’ve got considerably farther aside from an unexpected item...described below.
Working on getting the pistons installed...
Working on getting the pistons installed...
- Verified ring gap and all were in spec but on the higher side per FSM but well within spec per the Hastings literature.
- Rings installed on pistons in their respective grooves. All was well until the last piston (#6) and the 2nd groove ring (compression). It wouldn’t ‘fit’ into the groove. After some head scratching and some micrometer measuring it was in fact too ‘thick’. An hour later sanding on 600 grit paper in a figure 8 it was the correct size and fit like the others.
- I’m guessing the method above is fine?
- Clocked the rings per FSM.
- Popped each one of the pistons in using a Wiseco ring compressor (being sure front side of piston faced front) - this worked great and was fool proof.
- Installed rod caps and torqued to 50lbs as indicated in FSM.
- Installed stainless cotter pins, needing to slightly tighten a few castle nuts to get the pins in.
- Verified thrust clearance for each rod cap and all were in spec (on the lower range).
- Installed timing gear on end of the crank shaft - had to slightly dress the half moon key but it went on fine, using a 50mm socket and large brass mallet as my SST.
- Checked to make sure crank still rotates smoothly - fairly tight but can be turned over by hand using a strap wrench on the timing gear.
- GuessIsn’t it should be tight as to not be able to just rotate with my hand on the timing gear - I am no He-Man
- One final check and marked the bolts with a paint pen reminding myself they are GTG.
- Popped the top off and proceeded to scrape off the old gasket.
- Checked the driven gear to housing clearance - within spec
- Checked drive gear to housing clearance - within check
- Checked gear backlash and was in spec but on the higher side of the range so I flipped the driven over and spec was closer to the mid/lower range
- Made a gasket out of felpro 1/64” material - used tape to create my template then transferred to gasket.
- Checked gear to straightedge (with gasket) clearance and I am slightly over at ~.152mm.
- I’m hoping the gasket will smash down some and I’ll be fine.
- Screwed it back together and bolted to the block.
- Bolted filter to block.
- Oil pump through block bolts look to have been ‘pinned’ from the factory. Should I do the same or use threadlocker?
- The oil pump shaft bolt that needs to be safety wired...anyone have a pic? I swear I took a pic before removing but can’t find it.
Last edited:
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Too cool. Definitely interested in seeing these!
Cotter pins on the rod bolts?! Too cool!!
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #250
Had today off work for the President’s Day so got to continue assembling the F135.
Cleaned up the timing plate, installed it’s oem gasket and added some very light Permatex to the back side, being careful to not obstruct the oil squirter pathway.
Mounted the plate with oem torx Screws vs the flat head style and staked them once tightened. Installed the oil squirter BEFORE mounting the plate to be sure it was not protruding past the backside.
Installed cam gear and aligned timing marks. Fine tuned the oil squirter point direction (pic below is before readjusting) then staked it too. Tightened down cam thrust plate per FSM torque (15lbs) - added blue thread locker to the bolts just in case.
Rummaged through my 10k newly plated bolts to find the appropriate length hardware. Installed timing cover crank oil seal and verified the mounting side of the cover was flat ‘enough’. Installed keyway in the crank shaft and oil slinger on the crank, verifying it did not contact the cam gear.
Installed oem cork gasket and timing cover, attaching it loosely then banging on the crank pulley. Once the pulley was on (still not sure if it’s on far enough) then tightened down cover, adding blue thread locker to all the bolts minus the ones that are pass throughs to the lower end. Used Permatex high temp thread sealant on the ones that see oil.
Then worked on installing the head. The F135 doesn’t seem to use the head dowel locator sleeves like the F and 2Fs...so I cut the heads off a couple old head bolts. Placed the oem gasket orientated the correct way and gently (as gently as I could) dropped down the head. After oiling the threads of the head bolts, tightened them down per the FSM (in graduated torque increments).
Instead of installing the water pump I went through all the rest of the block threaded holes and chased them so they’ll be clean and ready. Hope to get more stuff mounted tomorrow evening.
Cleaned up the timing plate, installed it’s oem gasket and added some very light Permatex to the back side, being careful to not obstruct the oil squirter pathway.
Mounted the plate with oem torx Screws vs the flat head style and staked them once tightened. Installed the oil squirter BEFORE mounting the plate to be sure it was not protruding past the backside.
Installed cam gear and aligned timing marks. Fine tuned the oil squirter point direction (pic below is before readjusting) then staked it too. Tightened down cam thrust plate per FSM torque (15lbs) - added blue thread locker to the bolts just in case.
Rummaged through my 10k newly plated bolts to find the appropriate length hardware. Installed timing cover crank oil seal and verified the mounting side of the cover was flat ‘enough’. Installed keyway in the crank shaft and oil slinger on the crank, verifying it did not contact the cam gear.
Installed oem cork gasket and timing cover, attaching it loosely then banging on the crank pulley. Once the pulley was on (still not sure if it’s on far enough) then tightened down cover, adding blue thread locker to all the bolts minus the ones that are pass throughs to the lower end. Used Permatex high temp thread sealant on the ones that see oil.
Then worked on installing the head. The F135 doesn’t seem to use the head dowel locator sleeves like the F and 2Fs...so I cut the heads off a couple old head bolts. Placed the oem gasket orientated the correct way and gently (as gently as I could) dropped down the head. After oiling the threads of the head bolts, tightened them down per the FSM (in graduated torque increments).
Instead of installing the water pump I went through all the rest of the block threaded holes and chased them so they’ll be clean and ready. Hope to get more stuff mounted tomorrow evening.
Last edited:
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #251
Couple pages back I shared pics of my elephant horns. The bodies are in decent shape and even the plastic covers ended up being decent enough after blasting...but the ‘tags’ were long gone. There was at least two layers of paint over the label and citri strip removed what may have been left underneath.
So after help from @wngrog for an image and @SMG for adobe illustrator magic, I ordered a metal print from bayphoto. Print arrived today and they look pretty good! Especially for the cost...23bucs shipped! The image is more clear then the photo shows as it was tough to get a pic with my phone from the metal glare.
I should be able to get at least 10 pairs out of these as a few images printed off page and the left side line might be too close to the edge to get the correct end portion where one of the mounting holes is located.
Getting these cut, routed and drilled so their ready to mount is a project a bit down my list but will hopefully happen in the next couple months!
So after help from @wngrog for an image and @SMG for adobe illustrator magic, I ordered a metal print from bayphoto. Print arrived today and they look pretty good! Especially for the cost...23bucs shipped! The image is more clear then the photo shows as it was tough to get a pic with my phone from the metal glare.
I should be able to get at least 10 pairs out of these as a few images printed off page and the left side line might be too close to the edge to get the correct end portion where one of the mounting holes is located.
Getting these cut, routed and drilled so their ready to mount is a project a bit down my list but will hopefully happen in the next couple months!
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Awesome!!! Nice work all. Definitely interested in a pair when the time comes.
Man, so sorry. I’ve been so busy I forgot to get you that other file.
Let me know if you still want it. They might turn out better with a vector file.
Looking good!
Let me know if you still want it. They might turn out better with a vector file.
Looking good!
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #254
Got distracted for a couple days by another shiny object...one of my pitfalls!
Weather finally cooperated today (9 days for rain) to paint the oil pan. While waiting for it to dry I got the lifters, pushrods, rockers, oil tub, fuel pump and then side cover installed and torqued down. Also got the thermostat and housing installed.
After a couple hours sitting in front of the heater, the oil pan was dry so got that installed and torqued.
Tomorrow I hope to get the oil fill tube installed, then cam plug. Maybe even the bellhousing/motor mounts and stabbthis in b/w the frame rails!
Weather finally cooperated today (9 days for rain) to paint the oil pan. While waiting for it to dry I got the lifters, pushrods, rockers, oil tub, fuel pump and then side cover installed and torqued down. Also got the thermostat and housing installed.
After a couple hours sitting in front of the heater, the oil pan was dry so got that installed and torqued.
Tomorrow I hope to get the oil fill tube installed, then cam plug. Maybe even the bellhousing/motor mounts and stabbthis in b/w the frame rails!
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #255
Stabbed the engine in this evening and got the pilot bearing and flywheel installed. Always be sure to pre-fit the pilot bearing onto the transmission input shaft...mine required significant sanding with an emory cloth. Probably since the previous pilot bearing was separated into two peices and a pile of balls with the inner race almost welded to the input snout.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #256
Chugging along but damn, sometimes it takes way longer then I anticipated to do some small task. Queue installing the intake/exhaust manifolds...required making a new gasket (spending 20 mins finding the sheet of gasket material), chasing threads (10 mins finding the m10x1.5 bolts), getting parts of the oil filter mount installed (finding and unwrapping them from my boxes of painted parts), some Permatex copper gasket maker...and bam done!
Also got the battery pedestal installed with a new tray and hold down. Then mounted a Toyota refurb gear reduction starter.
@65swb45 question for you...the carb I got from you, how do I get vacuum for the distributor advance? I see there is a threaded port on the base of the carb and then a plug next to it. Unfortunately I don’t have any of the oem vacuum advance hard line or fittings. Is there some sort of barbed fitting I need to get and then run vacuum hose from it to the distributor?
Also got the battery pedestal installed with a new tray and hold down. Then mounted a Toyota refurb gear reduction starter.
@65swb45 question for you...the carb I got from you, how do I get vacuum for the distributor advance? I see there is a threaded port on the base of the carb and then a plug next to it. Unfortunately I don’t have any of the oem vacuum advance hard line or fittings. Is there some sort of barbed fitting I need to get and then run vacuum hose from it to the distributor?
Last edited:
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #257
I’ve been procrastinating on assembling the steering and decided to dive into it today. Unfortunately the ujoints I ordered a while back were not the correct size 
. Small setback but still had other stuff I could work on.
At some point a PO installed one of Downey’s manual Saginaw steering kits (#oldschool). Same premise as the usual Saginaw power steering but with a manual box. I considered doing power steering but that requires making a custom mount for the pump as the F135 doesn’t have the same threaded holes in the block as the F and 2Fs.
Most of the install was done well, so my plan is to just redo it to new. Already rebuilt the manual Saginaw box and installed an new pillow block that supports a portion of the linkage. The other linkage is waiting on the new ujoints mentioned above. Seems straightforward, right?
As part of the conversion that was done, the stock steering pedestal was removed. The pedestal provided the support for the steering column and the kit included an attempt to replace this support with a bracket and ubolt attached to the column at the interior firewall. Since I’m keeping the 3 on the tree vs going floor shift, I wanted to figure out a better support solution.
I’m using one of the Cruiser Outfitters firewall plates, attaching it to the engine bay side of the firewall (keeping the interior side looking tidy), cutting a pass through for the column shifter and will ultimately weld the column to the plate. Should provide a more solid support and hopefully not introduce slop into the shifting.
Got the plate drilled and ground to fit the firewall flat. Still need to clearance the column shifter hole and then weld.
. Small setback but still had other stuff I could work on.At some point a PO installed one of Downey’s manual Saginaw steering kits (#oldschool). Same premise as the usual Saginaw power steering but with a manual box. I considered doing power steering but that requires making a custom mount for the pump as the F135 doesn’t have the same threaded holes in the block as the F and 2Fs.
Most of the install was done well, so my plan is to just redo it to new. Already rebuilt the manual Saginaw box and installed an new pillow block that supports a portion of the linkage. The other linkage is waiting on the new ujoints mentioned above. Seems straightforward, right?
As part of the conversion that was done, the stock steering pedestal was removed. The pedestal provided the support for the steering column and the kit included an attempt to replace this support with a bracket and ubolt attached to the column at the interior firewall. Since I’m keeping the 3 on the tree vs going floor shift, I wanted to figure out a better support solution.
I’m using one of the Cruiser Outfitters firewall plates, attaching it to the engine bay side of the firewall (keeping the interior side looking tidy), cutting a pass through for the column shifter and will ultimately weld the column to the plate. Should provide a more solid support and hopefully not introduce slop into the shifting.
Got the plate drilled and ground to fit the firewall flat. Still need to clearance the column shifter hole and then weld.
If you want to go with power steering, the Bill Dorey bracket that @orangefj45 sells doesn't attach to the block, it uses the motor mounts. I use it in mine and it works well.
S4Cruiser
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #260
Is your alternator on the driver or passenger side of the block? I have one of Georg’s mounts on the shelf but I thought it required running the alternator high on the passenger side. If I could run the pump above the alternator on the drivers side...hmmm power steering!
