Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40 (3 Viewers)

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My alternator is on the passenger side. I have a Vintage air system so I use that for the AC compressor and alternator. The BD bracket puts the PS pump up high, I believe it was designed to clear the smog pump (I don't have one) so it may be high enough for you. Give Georg a call I'm sure he has dealt with your scenario before.
 
Cleaned up the original glass bowl from the fuel filter (had a bunch of old gas and crud staining) then combined it with a new oem filter. Bolted the mount arm and connected the ‘cleaned’ up original fuel lines. Crazy these were clear when new!

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After loosely attaching the hardline from above, I moved on to getting the clutch slave mounted. I took no pictures of how this mounted but luckily there were pics on the forum to show how all the little parts fit together.

What I’m not so sure about it how loose the transmission pivot lever should be. It has a bronze bushing in it and then slide over the metal stud / mounting bolt.

Should this lever have no, some or a lot of play when mounted?? Mine seems to be in the some to maybe more play.

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Pivot lever- mine was not sloppy at all, hardly any play. With a dab of grease.

I assembled it dry then had to grill dinner. I’ll add some grease tomorrow and report back.

Is there a washer b/w the pivot. Lever and the cast hex head on the shaft or just pivot lever against that hex portion?
 
@bb67tlc is that the original emergency brake cable routing? Pics help a lot if it is. Thanks.
 
Argh...went to mate the rebuilt 3spd and tcase together. When bolts are tightened down it locks the transmission. Wtf might I have done wrong?

The transmission rear output bearing snapring isn’t flush with the rear of the case. I had ‘assumed’ it would flush up when tightening down but I seemed to have assumed wrong.

Help!
 
You can see it here. I think this was with the rear shaft not ‘pushed’ all the way in but it’s like that bearing won’t go on farther. Maybe I just need to hit it harder??

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Well...I went out and beat on it and the bearing doesn’t want to move farther in. Maybe in the morning i can try and stack the gears / spacer on the shaft and see if I can draw the shaft through the bearing. If that doesn’t work then I get to start tearing down the box. Argh.

The only other thing I can think of that would lock up the case is if a needle bearing in the input shaft fell out and is preventing the cluster to move forward. I don’t suspect that seeing as how tight the last needle was to seat...not at risk of falling out.
 
Got the transmission and tcase installed. It went way smoother then I anticipated!

Spent the entire day working on the windshield and hood hinges, I procrastinated for these as I expected them to require some work. Each windshield hinge pin was broken in 3 places. They would not come out without drilling each piece. Took very long! The hood hinges weren’t broken but still required drilling. Easier / quicker. Still one hood hinge left for tomorrow and then door hinges.

Installed Steve’s @SMG pins and bushings. These pins are so nice!

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Got the windshield frame installed and then said WTH, let’s try and install the windshield glass. HF...now that I can say ‘I’ve done that’ I will never do one again unless I have too. It all worked but was just a huge PITA.

I had previously put the glass in the weather stripping in hopes of ‘loosening’ the rubber from being folded in a bag. Had to tape it to the glass and after a day it held its form fine. Then placed glass and weatherstripping in the frame (previously wrapping some rope around the rubber outside in the groove). Had the wife apply gentle pressure to the glass as I pulled out the rope, ‘sucking in’ the rubber. Large amounts of tire gloss (silicon) made this doable in sections that were overly stubborn. The last side was the toughest as the rubber had stretched toward this end and was a bit ‘loose’. Eventually got it. Then proceeded to I steer the locking strip. I purchased one of the Lisle strip tools and there is likely no way I could’ve done it without said tool. It took me some time to figure out how it worked but once I got it and found my rhythm...it was a breeze. Again, lots of lube made inserting the rubber way easier :p.

My hands will likely be sore tomorrow, but it’s done and I feel accomplished!
 
Dang...I feel like I worked a lot on this truck yesterday and today but when I went to take pics, it didn't seem like a whole hell of a lot!

  • Steering linkage is all but finished. This is the setup that was on the truck as I purchased it but all new...plus I added a plate to the firewall for extra support.
  • Got all the column shift and transfer case linkage installed. Need to test for proper shifting then tighten down the nuts. All new OEM Toyota rod ends!
  • Installed the transfer case vacuum shift hard lines and complimented the rubber hoses with OEM Toyota constant tension clamps.
  • Attempted to salvage the column shift handle rubber 'boot'. It was missing pieces and torn in a couple places. Glued it back together and added some vacuum hose to fill in the missing parts. It's a tight fit so I might shave off some more rubber before final install.
Plan to work on the throttle pedal and linkage tomorrow evening then I should be in a good place to install fenders!

Pics...
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That is one nice clean build! Two questions if you get a chance...

Any tips on how you got that glass fuel filter and the top so clean?

Source for your new rod ends on the shifter? I keep getting back ordered from my sources.
 
That is one nice clean build! Two questions if you get a chance...

Any tips on how you got that glass fuel filter and the top so clean?

Source for your new rod ends on the shifter? I keep getting back ordered from my sources.

Thanks for the compliments!!

Re: fuel filter - for the glass bowl, I soaked in carb cleaner and then scrubbed some stubborn spots with an old rag and carb cleaner. I was surprised how easily the old gas tarnish was removed. All the other parts of the filter are new OEM. If you purchase part #23300-30012 it comes as the entire fuel filter assembly. Just remove the steel bowl on the new one and replace with the glass bowl. I ordered 3 of these a couple weeks ago and they were just $7.91 each, plus tax.

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Re: rod ends - purchased these from the dealer maybe 8 months ago and they had to be ordered from Japan but came in fairly quickly. I think my dealer said they were back ordered but that typically only means a couple weeks at most until they come in.

Key point - there are two part numbers for the rod ends with the only difference being the left hand / reverse thread on one and normal on the other. ALSO, be sure to save those 3 corresponding nuts that go with the left handed threaded rods as the new rod ends do not come with the nuts. I didn't realize this until yesterday when I was assembling everything but was lucky enough to find each of the nuts in my pile of plated hardware...even though it took 30 minutes sorting through a few hendred nuts to pick out m8x1.25 nuts, to then thread each one onto the rod end searching for the left hand thread ones, lol!
 

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