Builds Lemonade - 1967 FJ40

[S4Cruiser]

I've got an oxy setup now thanks to @Hokie LX . We could get some brazing rod and glue it back together.

Appreciate the offer but this thing is destined for the garbage and should’ve never been used! I still think I can get everything done barring any other issues.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Appreciate the offer but this thing is destined for the garbage and should’ve never been used! I still think I can get everything done barring any other issues.

can i ask what type or brand Radiator you sourced ?

OEM TOYOTA

or

CSF

or ?


this all matters here greatly ..

 

[S4Cruiser]

can i ask what type or brand Radiator you sourced ?

OEM TOYOTA

or

CSF

or ?


this all matters here greatly ..

Oem. Always and every time!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Oem. Always and every time!

did you know that even though the OEM DRAIN TUBE is Disc. / NLA .....

a NEW one and its brass petcock still comes with a OEM RADATIOR in the box , its loose attached by a green paper bread tie !


this here is what the latest rendition is :

i wish like hell i can get my hands on one , so i can have my way with it , dried green loch-tite and all would be on my end product for sure

 

[S4Cruiser]

Question - do I need to add oil to the external oil filter housing on the f135 or will it fill up on it's own after first start?

 

[red66toy]

I usually fill it up to help things along.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Radiator arrived but unfortunately has a decent sized dent on the top right. Weird how the packaging didn't seem damaged but I filed a claim with Route and they already approved the claim and reimbursed me...so this one gets installed with it's included character! I don't think the dent will impact performance.

 

[rainingagain]

Question - do I need to add oil to the external oil filter housing on the f135 or will it fill up on it's own after first start?

Definitely top it off. Not to would be like screwing on a new filter dry.

 

[middlecalf]

I usually fill it up to help things along.

How you do that?

 

[red66toy]

How you do that?

Take the top cap off and pour oil in over the top of the filter cartridge. It just spills into the housing.

 

[middlecalf]

I was under the impression that when the top cap was removed the bottom of part of 60 came loose from the bottom, and would drain out. I didn't see anything in the FSM about filling this seperately.

 

[red66toy]

I was under the impression that when the top cap was removed the bottom of part of 60 came loose from the bottom, and would drain out. I didn't see anything in the FSM about filling this seperately.

Oh I don’t think you have to fill it. I just like to fill it. To give it all a head start.
I can take the top cap off mine and nothing else loosens. Maybe that is odd?

 

[S4Cruiser]

I just did this and I held the bottom fitting while pouring over the top of the filter (with lid off of course) and letting oil drain down the sides. A couple drips came out the bottom but not much.

Ended up with around 9 qts of oil - I have a 2f oil pan on this f135 so more oil pan capacity.

 

[middlecalf]

That's makes sense about holding the bottom fitting in place @S4Cruiser . I'm not actually using my original filter, I'm using a remote spin-on filter setup, so I haven't used the original setup and playing around with it it seemed like the lid needed to be in place to keep the whole setup in tact. That's a lot of oil for sure!

 

[S4Cruiser]

New radiator installed and no leaks so far. Oil filled. Spark plugs installed. Dizzy seated and plug wires connected. Checked valves.

Hooked up battery and installed fuses Then started checking electrical functions.

• Heater blower works
• turn signals work
• hazards work
• running lights work
• headlights do not work - I’m using those newer retrofit Toyota lights with relays and must have wired them wrong.
• brake lights do not work - need to investigate wiring from the switch to lamps
• starter turns over nicely (used a 60 series gear reduction starter).

Tomorrow I plan to hook up the choke cable to carb, add gas and see if it fires up then focus on my list of to-dos

• Bleed brakes
• chase wiring issues
• install longer shackles on the rear to compensate from clapped out oem leafs
• install seat belts and soft half doors
• burb the radiator and top off
• install bikini top
• drive around the block and see how the gears shift (I can easily shift into reverse and 1st gear but 2nd and 3rd are not happy, imagine the linkage needs adjusting)

 

[S4Cruiser]

@middlecalf it is a lot of oil for sure! I think the 2f pan holds 8ish qts and the f135 remote oil filter canister holds around a qt. I’m smack in the middle of the dip stick and imagine it will drop after running for a few minutes and oil fills the oil regulator lines, filter housing, etc.

 

[rainingagain]

I was under the impression that when the top cap was removed the bottom of part of 60 came loose from the bottom, and would drain out. I didn't see anything in the FSM about filling this seperately.

There's a drain plug on the canister also.

I'm not surprised the FSM wouldn't call it out. I think it's just something that people do to avoid the tiny bit of time that the engine would run with no oil while the filter fills. I have a 2010 BMW that is the old school canister type for some reason, and I top that one off also.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Does the f135 cycle all oil through the canister filter like the F / 2F does with the spin on filter or does just some oil go through the canister filter? I have no idea but always wondered how that worked on the f135.

 

[red66toy]

Does the f135 cycle all oil through the canister filter like the F / 2F does with the spin on filter or does just some oil go through the canister filter? I have no idea but always wondered how that worked on the f135.

No, its a split system. So in theory if the filter clogs or something, the engine may still get all its oil it seems.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Do the elephant horns need a ground wire or do they ground to the horn body? I keep blowing the horn fuse and i don't even have the horn button hooked up.