LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion

[cruiseroutfit]

Kits are back in stock. All back-orders have shipped

100 Series IFS Toyota Land Cruiser & LX470 Part-Time Conversion Kit

Part Time Conversion Kit

cruiserteq.com

New orders ship tomorrow!

 

[mp_cude]

There is a lot to read on this thread, so forgive me if it’s been covered.

I’m interested is doing a part-time conversion and have some preliminary questions.

Can the hubs be installed prior to the x-case being converted? I imagine the center diff would have to be locked for running around prior to the spool being installed. Would this cause any wear or other issues to the case?
The reason I ask is, I know I can handle installing the hubs but would prefer a professional to handle the case. If there were a couple of months from the time the hubs were installed to having the case converted, would there be any issues? Or would it be best to just lock the hubs in the mean time? And also, would locking the hubs cause wear on the internal gear of the hubs? Thanks!

 

[WTB]

I installed the hubs with the intention of installing the spool at a later date. Well it’s now been a year and I still haven’t installed the spool. No issues whatsoever. Just lock the hubs and it will be the exact same as if you had drive flanges.

 

[Dirt J]

2WD option is in the running for best mod I've made. Mines a daily driver.

 

[obe12]

There is a lot to read on this thread, so forgive me if it’s been covered.

I’m interested is doing a part-time conversion and have some preliminary questions.

Can the hubs be installed prior to the x-case being converted? I imagine the center diff would have to be locked for running around prior to the spool being installed. Would this cause any wear or other issues to the case?
The reason I ask is, I know I can handle installing the hubs but would prefer a professional to handle the case. If there were a couple of months from the time the hubs were installed to having the case converted, would there be any issues? Or would it be best to just lock the hubs in the mean time? And also, would locking the hubs cause wear on the internal gear of the hubs? Thanks!

If you install the hubs, and unlock them the front drive shaft will spin and your truck will not move unless you engage center dif lock.

Or install the hubs, lock them and you can drive it normally until the center dif spool is done.

Tex

2WD option is in the running for best mod I've made. Mines a daily driver.

yes, the part time kit plus the 10% underdrive with 33 inch tires was a great option. At sea level it drives normal and tips in 70-75 to pass without downshifting unlike before …

 

[obe12]

If you install the hubs, and unlock them the front drive shaft will spin and your truck will not move unless you engage center dif lock.

Or install the hubs, lock them and you can drive it normally until the center dif spool is done.

Tex

yes, the part time kit plus the 10% underdrive with 33 inch tires was a great option. At sea level it drives normal and tips in 70-75 to pass without downshifting unlike before …

To mention this, if you plan to overland / climb / decend steep grades/ and larger tires than stock you might consider while the transfer case is apart,
Doing the 10% underdrive, help pulling, overall performance, and off road gearing. Also there is a low range gear set that can be installed too that is great climbing and decending without the riding the brakes when needed. I did all 3 mods to my Landcruiser and it changed it to a much better driving vehicle used in the hwy and off road.

If you never use low range then it would be of no value to do the low gears. Also, while’s it’s apart tackle the front and rear output shaft seals. It uses shafts for each in each housing. You would need two bearings and two seals to do that when you are tackling the spool. The shafts are pressed through a bearing in each extension housing, the shaft has to be pressed through the bearing , this creates side load on the bearing requiring replacement. Once apart bearing can be removed via snap ring. Clean housing and replace bearing and snap ring, replace and grease inter lip of the new seal and you have to press the shaft back through the besring. Now support the bearing inter race when pressing no pressure on the outer part of the bearing or housing . Now the new bearing is not damaged by side load.

I done all of these things to my transfer case. There are vids on YouTube how to do these mods. A set of snap ring pliers, 3 long finger puller modified to pull a hub free , and a press are the extra tools needed to do the extension housing seals and bearings.

The rear extension housing, it had an oil transfer support housing, automatic transmissions have this kind of thing too, but it has to be removed to gain access to the rear bearing shaft snap ring. Once you remove the retaining bolts in this support 90 degree picks to pull it up and out straight to not jam. It will come out. May have to clean around the or perimeter of it first. Once removed there is a speedo gear and snap ring to remove. If I remember correctly on one snap ring and shaft can be pressed through the bearing. The speedo gear can only go one direction.

Just some things to consider before you go after the transfer case mod or mods. The spool directions and experience say you can do this with the transfer case in the truck. The spool… I agree you can, I chose not too. I removed the transfer case. To have more working room and do the other things while it was apart.

If you decide to remove the transfer case, no exhaust stuff has to be taken loose. You can leave your crossmember installed too.
Driveshafts, wiring, low range selector rod, ground strap, vent hose and 6 17 mm head bolts and transfer case can be slipped out.

Have questions just ask. Glad to help…

Tex

 

[zipdoa]

To mention this, if you plan to overland / climb / decend steep grades/ and larger tires than stock you might consider while the transfer case is apart,
Doing the 10% underdrive, help pulling, overall performance, and off road gearing. Also there is a low range gear set that can be installed too that is great climbing and decending without the riding the brakes when needed. I did all 3 mods to my Landcruiser and it changed it to a much better driving vehicle used in the hwy and off road.

If you never use low range then it would be of no value to do the low gears. Also, while’s it’s apart tackle the front and rear output shaft seals. It uses shafts for each in each housing. You would need two bearings and two seals to do that when you are tackling the spool. The shafts are pressed through a bearing in each extension housing, the shaft has to be pressed through the bearing , this creates side load on the bearing requiring replacement. Once apart bearing can be removed via snap ring. Clean housing and replace bearing and snap ring, replace and grease inter lip of the new seal and you have to press the shaft back through the besring. Now support the bearing inter race when pressing no pressure on the outer part of the bearing or housing . Now the new bearing is not damaged by side load.

I done all of these things to my transfer case. There are vids on YouTube how to do these mods. A set of snap ring pliers, 3 long finger puller modified to pull a hub free , and a press are the extra tools needed to do the extension housing seals and bearings.

The rear extension housing, it had an oil transfer support housing, automatic transmissions have this kind of thing too, but it has to be removed to gain access to the rear bearing shaft snap ring. Once you remove the retaining bolts in this support 90 degree picks to pull it up and out straight to not jam. It will come out. May have to clean around the or perimeter of it first. Once removed there is a speedo gear and snap ring to remove. If I remember correctly on one snap ring and shaft can be pressed through the bearing. The speedo gear can only go one direction.

Just some things to consider before you go after the transfer case mod or mods. The spool directions and experience say you can do this with the transfer case in the truck. The spool… I agree you can, I chose not too. I removed the transfer case. To have more working room and do the other things while it was apart.

If you decide to remove the transfer case, no exhaust stuff has to be taken loose. You can leave your crossmember installed too.
Driveshafts, wiring, low range selector rod, ground strap, vent hose and 6 17 mm head bolts and transfer case can be slipped out.

Have questions just ask. Glad to help…

Tex

Does the 10% underdrive affect the Speedo? Would be nice to be accurate on 33’s

 

[bryson]

Does the 10% underdrive affect the Speedo? Would be nice to be accurate on 33’s

The t-case gear change is done upstream of the speedo output, so your speedometer will not be affected. Your 33s however will make the speedometer inaccurate.

 

[obe12]

Does the 10% underdrive affect the Speedo? Would be nice to be accurate on 33’s

No it doesn’t, the drive shaft turns the same speed to tire ratio as it is now, just a little more rpm than before

 

[Escape Artist]

I have the 10% underdrive in my tea case as well as the low range reduction gears. I have 4.88 in the front and rear diffs with 35 inch tires. Even with 35 inch tires it’s still a little lower geared than stock. My speedometer is 7% high so is my gas mileage and everything else. So at 2600 RPM i’ll be doing 70 vs 81 stock so it would take me an additional 400 RPM to get to 81 miles an hour or 3000 RPM.

My adjusted fuel economy really hasn’t taken much of a hit at all, maybe one and a half miles per gallon. I’m still getting 16 1/2 miles a gallon on the freeway at 70 miles an hour with these adjustments taken into account.

 

[WTB]

Has anyone else experienced movement in the locking hubs / CVs leading to the infamous clunk post-install?

 

[mderrick]

Has anyone else experienced movement in the locking hubs / CVs leading to the infamous clunk post-install?

Like the front diff bushings kind of clunk?

 

[WTB]

Like the front diff bushings kind of clunk?

Correct. However I just replaced those bushings, the UCAs, CVs, hubs instead of flanges, etc.

I can watch the CVs move and clunk when shifting from R to D. CVs only have 13K miles, so I’m curious if the play may be in the locking hubs and if that is normal.

 

[Dirt J]

When I converted to 2WD, my clunk went away. I think because there is no power to the front driveline.

 

[mderrick]

Correct. However I just replaced those bushings, the UCAs, CVs, hubs instead of flanges, etc.

I can watch the CVs move and clunk when shifting from R to D. CVs only have 13K miles, so I’m curious if the play may be in the locking hubs and if that is normal.

did you use OEM CV's? did you get the right C-Clip installed in the end of the CV in the hub?

there is usually a little play axially between the CV and the Hub assembly. if you are just running hubs in the front and still have the VC in the transfer case putting power to the front end you may get a clunk. but as stated earlier a part time conversion should not have any clunks.

 

[WTB]

When I converted to 2WD, my clunk went away. I think because there is no power to the front driveline.

It is important to not that I have not installed the T-case spool yet, so I am driving in factory all time 4WD but with locking hubs instead of flanges.

@Dirt J you are Correct. No stress on the front driveline equals no clunk.

Mine only clunks in 4 wheel drive with the hubs locked and center differential unlocked (open 4WD).

There is no clunk when in 4WD with hubs locked and center differential locked (locked 4WD).

There is no clunk with hubs unlocked and center differential locked (RWD).

@mderrick the CVs are beefy aftermarket, but the splines are identical to the OEM CVs I removed (torn boots) and to those I have seen online. Yes, I used the correct C-clips.

I suppose it could be the CVs but they only have 13K miles on them.

So, if there is anyone else out there with just locking hubs installed, do you have a clunk?

 

[mderrick]

It is important to not that I have not installed the T-case spool yet, so I am driving in factory all time 4WD but with locking hubs instead of flanges.

@Dirt J you are Correct. No stress on the front driveline equals no clunk.

Mine only clunks in 4 wheel drive with the hubs locked and center differential unlocked (open 4WD).

There is no clunk when in 4WD with hubs locked and center differential locked (locked 4WD).

There is no clunk with hubs unlocked and center differential locked (RWD).

@mderrick the CVs are beefy aftermarket, but the splines are identical to the OEM CVs I removed (torn boots) and to those I have seen online. Yes, I used the correct C-clips.

I suppose it could be the CVs but they only have 13K miles on them.

So, if there is anyone else out there with just locking hubs installed, do you have a clunk

when i first installed my hubs i was running in the same configuration and did so for 4 months maybe, no clunks at all.

have you checked all your u-joints?

Have you swapped your drive flanges back on?

I would probably just live with until you get the transfer case sorted out.

 

[Covered in Dust]

I had the hubs installed a couple of months ago. Really like the street manners now. I’m a little unclear about using 4 wheel drive. Do I need to engage the center diff lock to use 4 wheel drive? I thought I just needed to lock the hubs in.

CiD

 

[mderrick]

I had the hubs installed a couple of months ago. Really like the street manners now. I’m a little unclear about using 4 wheel drive. Do I need to engage the center diff lock to use 4 wheel drive? I thought I just needed to lock the hubs in.

CiD

did you install a spool in the transfer case?

 

[Covered in Dust]

did you install a spool in the transfer case?

Yes