Bought my 2000 MY 100 series in summer 2021 from family member. Bone stock with good service records. 280k on the odo. Brake system had recently been replaced (xmas tree lights and no brakes).
Got the bumper installed along with the Warn M12 winch and ARB LED fog lights. Also added LED KC HiLites with the old school smiley face covers. Reminds me of 80s off-road nostalgia.
The winch needed a new motor and relay box so upgraded to the solid state version. Old winch controller isn't compatible, so new controller too.
Next up was lift and tires. Installed Old Man Emu torsion bars and a Trail Tailor diff drop up front and OME 860s in the rear. Also Trail Tailor extended swaybar links front and rear with new swaybar bushings.
Took a little day trip to the Talladega National Forest to run Forest Service 600, part of the Skyway Motorway. Nothing serious. Just a bit of off camber stuff in a few spots.
Recently replaced most front end components. Also ordered the part-time 4x4 kit (along with CV axles and LCAs) from @cruiseroutfit and installed the hubs while disassembled. Parts replaced:
Toyota CV Axles
Axle Seals
Toyota Lower Control Arms (balljoints and bushing pre-installed)
@TRAIL TAILOR Upper Control Arms (new Tundra balljoints and Johnny Joint bushings pre-installed)
#2 LCA Bushings
Wheel Bearings
Spindle roller bearings
Toyota disc rotors
Napa Gold Brake Pads with hardware
Front differential fluid (Valvoline 80w-90 semi synthetic)
Passenger side steering rack boot (Beck Arnley 103-2948 boot kit and large stainless c-clamp)
PS boot was torn and leaking. Innards didn't look bad though.
Found this kit fit on Amazon that fits. Didn't feel the new to go OE for this boot.
Packed some grease in the exposed joint of the steering rack before installing the new boot. Didn't have the correct tool to cinch and cut the large inner clamp that came with the kit.
Instead sourced a large SS screw clamp (3"-4" diameter) to use.
Once I got the CAs and spindle put of the way, I just grabbed the DS CV axle by the middle portion of the shaft and yanked. A couple good tugs later, and I was able to free the inner c-clip and slide the shaft out of the axle housing.
Tried the same thing on the PS and this resulted:
Now I had no leverage to pull from...
After consultation with the relative mechanic and FSM, I learned the proper procedure is to use a brass drift to hammer the axle out along the ridge of the larger inner portion of the axle.
Hammering around the lip of the axle, it eventually popped loose.
Old CV Axle seal for reference. Did not want to seat the new seal too far in. I did initially reseat the new one a bit too far. Gingerly removed it without bending it or tearing it and re-seated it. Left it just a bit proud of flush, just like factory.
I was able to shove in the DS axle due to having more room to work on that side. I couldn't get enough momentum on the PS to get a good heave-ho, so I used the brass drift on the little lip to hammer in the PS side. (Factory Toyota axles have this lip but apparently some aftermarket ones do not.)
Once installed I gave them a tug to make sure the inner c-clip was seated. They did not want to come back out. However I was worried about the gap between the axle assembly and the housing. (shing silver area above).
But I checked the old shafts that I pulled and saw that there is a inner smaller OD portion the actually sits against the axle housing seal. The larger outer portion does NOT get pushed flush to the housing.
Glad it is of help! As I recall, I think I did the wiring after bumper install. The LED fogs had a wiring adapter, so it was plug and play with the factory fog lights (runs off factory switch). Same for the turn indicators.
I bought a wiring harness with relay for the KC lights. Just put them on a basic switch on the blank for the factory locker. At some point will instead use an ON/OFF/ON switch to turn them on automatically with my high beams, when desired.
I went to install the Trail Tailor UCAs, but they wouldn't fit inside the mounting ears. The UCAs were just a bit too narrow (like less than .5 inch). Upon a bit of investingation, I noticed the Johnny Joints in these CAs are asymetrical (one side of the ball is different than the other).
See the line on the lip that indicates one side of the ball below.
Found the info below and spoke with Jason at TT to confirm that the side with the line goes to the outside (snap ring) side. So I bought some threaded rod, washers, and joining nuts to make a small press to compress the joint, so the snap ring can be removed and the ball swapped around.
A heater tee decided to let go at the gas station on the way home right before the front-end rebuild started. Fortunately, I already had both tees and all 6 small hoses on-hand (on the to-do list), so those got replaced in the parking lot!
