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LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion
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And everyone is preferring the 9% OD over diff gear swap?
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Diesel owners often do OD. Most others want power back so they do UD high range gears and/or low range gears.
Ok thanks for clarifying.
Both, you can do the over or under drive for the High range, this is just swapping the idler gear no case modification needed. If you want to get a lower low range (crawling) you replace the low range gear set and this requires some modification (machining or grinding) of the transfer case housing. the grinding can be a little nerve racking but in the end isn't a big deal as long as you are careful.
Yeah I have the Marlin low range gear in my 55.
Not sure if I need it in the 100, but it's nice for sure.
Howdy, an update on the spool and low gear install. When I pulled the engine to fix the oil leaks 379K miles and both oil gallery o rings leaking, I went ahead and pull the converter out and changes the front pump seal. Pulled the transfer case out and did the front extension / rear extension seals and bearings along with input seal transfer / output trans. 2000 miles and NO LEAKS anywhere, yes! Ok, looked into the Spool Part Time and saw OUT of stock... ok put it to the side, revisited it and found Marks 4x4 un AUS. I bought their kit and why not low range gears too. Pulled the transfer case back out, harder this time with Slee Off Road skid system but managed. Put OEM crossmember back tempo then dropped the transfer case.
Now I have transfer case scattered and the press / puller work done, measured Axial Play in the Hi Gear on the Main Output shaft / center Dif. Specs by Yota is .254 MM or .010 Thousands mine has .022 thousands double the max spec amount. Hub and shift collar has wear marks on this shaft for the HI gear.
The Face of the Hi gear appears smooth but axial side play is out of specs, the Bushing it wears against is smooth and no lips on face. the opposite end is against the end bearing cone and zero wear there. The gear alone my dealer with discount is 504.00 bucks and maybe find it in the US. I did locate a seller that pulls parts from a Japan Warehouse Amayama.com - https://www.amayama.com/. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? The price is almost too good to be true at 139.00 same gear, plus shipping. All of these parts shipped 262.00 bucks and 7-14 days to get them to the states. If Push came to shove I could machine this bushing .015 shorter and shim stock bushing the same amount to accommodate same bearing preload in the case or re shim the race at the tail housing to accommodate the shorter distance of .015 thousands. I rather not do that and get the new parts or good USED parts from a 80 series or 100 series this gear is the same on the part time 4x4.
Has anyone else seen this wear like this and what did you do?
It doesn't appear an Under Drive system would replace this one gear or I go that way. The shifting in out Hi low range was fine. The main HI gear 1 of the 2 shift collars is really burred and appears to need replacing along within corresponding hub.
I am all ears.....
Thanks
TEX
Now I have transfer case scattered and the press / puller work done, measured Axial Play in the Hi Gear on the Main Output shaft / center Dif. Specs by Yota is .254 MM or .010 Thousands mine has .022 thousands double the max spec amount. Hub and shift collar has wear marks on this shaft for the HI gear.
The Face of the Hi gear appears smooth but axial side play is out of specs, the Bushing it wears against is smooth and no lips on face. the opposite end is against the end bearing cone and zero wear there. The gear alone my dealer with discount is 504.00 bucks and maybe find it in the US. I did locate a seller that pulls parts from a Japan Warehouse Amayama.com - https://www.amayama.com/. Has anyone dealt with this seller before? The price is almost too good to be true at 139.00 same gear, plus shipping. All of these parts shipped 262.00 bucks and 7-14 days to get them to the states. If Push came to shove I could machine this bushing .015 shorter and shim stock bushing the same amount to accommodate same bearing preload in the case or re shim the race at the tail housing to accommodate the shorter distance of .015 thousands. I rather not do that and get the new parts or good USED parts from a 80 series or 100 series this gear is the same on the part time 4x4.
Has anyone else seen this wear like this and what did you do?
It doesn't appear an Under Drive system would replace this one gear or I go that way. The shifting in out Hi low range was fine. The main HI gear 1 of the 2 shift collars is really burred and appears to need replacing along within corresponding hub.
I am all ears.....
Thanks
TEX
Well It appears all three gears are changed when doing Over / Under drive. Plus the two gears for low range.
The input gear with new input shaft and one new bearing, transfer the other one, replace the idler with Low new gear and bearings to install on it if doing low gear change, and last the output shaft / dif new HI gear that I need, along with new low range gear. All gears would be new, except for the hubs and collars. Ok learning is occurring..
Any discounts at CruiserOutfiters for members?
Never hurts to ask
The input gear with new input shaft and one new bearing, transfer the other one, replace the idler with Low new gear and bearings to install on it if doing low gear change, and last the output shaft / dif new HI gear that I need, along with new low range gear. All gears would be new, except for the hubs and collars. Ok learning is occurring..
Any discounts at CruiserOutfiters for members?
Never hurts to ask
Amayama is good, tons of us have sourced parts there. Partsouq.com is another source with a great reputation here.
The Face of the Hi gear appears smooth but axial side play is out of specs, the Bushing it wears against is smooth and no lips on face. the opposite end is against the end bearing cone and zero wear there.
This should have been my 1st clue the visual inspection of the parts. If I would have read a head in the manual and see there are snap ring selectable thickness to help with excess axial play. I now have learned the bearing wasn't seated tight against the gear / bushing where this measurement is taken. The bearing floats a slip fit on the shaft, but the end cog is a press fit and it is pressed down against the bearing and retained by a snap ring. The part was not presses fully against the bearing therefore allowing more axial clearance than specs.
I set up on the bench the inter bushing with gear, bearing on top and bearing pressed against the bushing the clearance is now .008 within specs not .022. This will require a thicker snap ring to hold the cog in place and "possible" re shim the extension housing area to keep preload on the bearing.
So NO new gear and bushing is required, but a thicker snap ring is! Mine is 2.20 mm and need to increase it .022 - .008 =.355mm ish so a 2.56 mm which they don't make. 2.5 or a 2.6 mm is what is made. in thousands 0.002
Almost condemned a good 500.00 part when it was something else causing the miss adjustment. Always do a double check save yourself grief.
This should have been my 1st clue the visual inspection of the parts. If I would have read a head in the manual and see there are snap ring selectable thickness to help with excess axial play. I now have learned the bearing wasn't seated tight against the gear / bushing where this measurement is taken. The bearing floats a slip fit on the shaft, but the end cog is a press fit and it is pressed down against the bearing and retained by a snap ring. The part was not presses fully against the bearing therefore allowing more axial clearance than specs.
I set up on the bench the inter bushing with gear, bearing on top and bearing pressed against the bushing the clearance is now .008 within specs not .022. This will require a thicker snap ring to hold the cog in place and "possible" re shim the extension housing area to keep preload on the bearing.
So NO new gear and bushing is required, but a thicker snap ring is! Mine is 2.20 mm and need to increase it .022 - .008 =.355mm ish so a 2.56 mm which they don't make. 2.5 or a 2.6 mm is what is made. in thousands 0.002
Almost condemned a good 500.00 part when it was something else causing the miss adjustment. Always do a double check save yourself grief.
Thanks for the info, good to know!
Thanks for the heads up. Why not spend another 1200.00 he he... but as you mentioned the benefits are much better, like yourself I am on 33 tires buy 17 inch wheels to get the offset and same outer diameter than my stock wheels on same 33 inch tires.
I am at sea level and it needs some help if it short shifts to pull the gear. With the rear bumper and now AirDown Gear Up drawers with Slee rock sliders, Slee full skid plates there is some weight you are moving. I love every aspect of my LC, it's my 1st one... but the MPG is horrible. I have same V8 in a 4Runner 2wd, it is lighter and 5 speed. It by far has a lot better performance and better MPG, but not as nice of Truck to drive.
I bought this as a restoration and sold my old Yota pickup 87 straight front axle swap, 3.4 Supercharged swap, and Detroit locked 5:29 Auto with dual transfer Crawler cases. I don't get to Moab for years and hardly drove my pickup I owned for 21 years. I sold it and bought this LC tank... its a tank too.
An update on the 4x2 part time conversion , low range gears, and 10% underdrive unit.
Japan part hopefully due tomorrow USPS ! It’s been a while. The collar - sleeve needed replacing along with Hi speed Hub and shift collar. Part where not expensive just where to get them. UAE didn’t have them, my local dealer said sleeve not in US ans take a while, ok… did the Japan route Ofcorse hit their holiday for a week. Lost that time… 7 days
Order throught a Toyotalartsdeal.com the sleeve as a backup solution just incase Japan didn’t ship it. Wow USA system came up with it, pretty quick. I have an extra now. Oh well..
Today did the front hub conversion with trim ring for wheels. I used a moly paste lube for splines to help with wear. Swapped the axle full time to part time hubs from Marks 4x4. Easy…
Tomorrow if I am lucky, USPS will arrive and I can got started in the transfer case again. That I can hardly wait.
Update,
Parts arrived Japan that took a while. Doing the low gear change, and under drive gear change basically all the gears are being changed, plus input shaft and counter shaft.
The low range gears required a internal shield and case mod to allow clearance. Fairly easy with a cut off wheel. Now the snap ring for the 80 series new input shaft is needed to take up axial play between bearing and shaft snap ring, manual says replace with new too. Ordered . The measurement in idler gear preload shim is good. No change. Output shaft preload is different requiring change of shims. They are ordered.. yota only I believe. Ordered assorted sizes to dial in preload. Cheaper to get extras when ordering. Of corse 5-7 days in the system.
We we wait yet again!!
As the world turns ..
The new parts came Hi speed hub, shift collar and hi speed gear sleeve , pressed all together had to go 1 step thicker snap ring, .004 ish and axial gear measured .008 so good on specs. Compared to .022 when taken apart.
I advise guys if you do the spool part time conversion measure the preload via manual. It’s a lot of steps, but a needed step to ensure correct preload. Mine is .014 thousand off . Thanks enough to allow this axle gear set to walk back and forth and not have correct tooth contact. Possible lead to gear noise.
Just passing info along.
Tex
Beautiful work so far.
Any way you could go into more detail with the preload steps (maybe some pictures of the process)? What are the part numbers for the shims?
Sorry to request so much, I just haven't found any pics or details anywhere on it.
Any way you could go into more detail with the preload steps (maybe some pictures of the process)? What are the part numbers for the shims?
Sorry to request so much, I just haven't found any pics or details anywhere on it.
I see what I can do after the shims arrive …
Right now no form a gasket is on and cases bolted together. To take beginning measurements.
The Transfer Manual covers the steps and need to read them 2-3 time to process the data being collected. The idler gear is the east one, and snap rings. Use the thickest snap ring you care in the space left and steps of about .004 thousands
The main output takes patience and straight edge , feeler gauges, and stick caliper to measure depth, plus shim thickness.
I post back some pics when the shims arrive.
Tex
Ok, preload checking
Center housing has a hump at the output shaft where the rear extension housing has a dip. The dip down is larger than the hump.
First have to measure race of large bearing to the face of the hump housing. This recess can be tricky. I personally used old thicker of the two shims, and a machinist straight edge, and two feeler gauges to gauge slip drag on both feeler gauges under the straight edge to the shim on top of the race. Mine was .015 thousands with the small thin shim removed.which is .011 thousand.
So with all shims installed it was .004 from the surface.
Now straight edge across the hump of housing, flat and use a dial caliper and measure to housing where it mates to the extension housing. This hump should be equal on both sides of the straight edge minis the thickness of the straight edge.
That’s another measurement you need the sum of that.
Do the same on extension housing measure the drop / dip to face. It will be a greater number the the hump one . Get the sum of dip minis straight edge.
Take this number suppose 1.3000 mins hump 1.285 suppose equal .015 thousand plus the first dip of race under housing casing, which mine is .004
.015 plus .004 plus preload of .0006 to .0015 equal 20.5 total thicker shim stack needed. At max preload.
An update:
Wow wished I did this when I resealed the extension housings.
In Texas 900 feet from sea level normal small grades on cruise it would down shift to maintain its speed 70-80. That drives me nuts to not even use the cruise. Also up to 80-85 was not hard but pass that over 3000 rpm hi gear seemed like running against a wall.
I can report this is not the case now. Cruise holds it without shifting.. 70,80 no problem. Acceleration happens now without having to down shift.
One big worry was gear noise doing this, I can report Zero gear noise. Now I had to order shims to get the preload correct. If I would have slammed it together it would have had end play in the tapered bearings in which they are not designed for. Removed a .010 replaced with .0215 shim for mine.
This could account for noise some may have experienced. This output shaft hi speed gear need to hold a centerline. With clearance that can’t happen and possibly lead to noise. Tapered bearings are designed to have no play and some form of preload. Used bearings less preload then new. For an example pinion or wheel bearings that use tapered bearings, preload is measured in inch pounds.
Anyway, I can report… very happy. Worth every penny. I did the part time, low range gears, and 10% underdrive gears plus new Borla Exhaust.
Take care
Tex
Wow wished I did this when I resealed the extension housings.
In Texas 900 feet from sea level normal small grades on cruise it would down shift to maintain its speed 70-80. That drives me nuts to not even use the cruise. Also up to 80-85 was not hard but pass that over 3000 rpm hi gear seemed like running against a wall.
I can report this is not the case now. Cruise holds it without shifting.. 70,80 no problem. Acceleration happens now without having to down shift.
One big worry was gear noise doing this, I can report Zero gear noise. Now I had to order shims to get the preload correct. If I would have slammed it together it would have had end play in the tapered bearings in which they are not designed for. Removed a .010 replaced with .0215 shim for mine.
This could account for noise some may have experienced. This output shaft hi speed gear need to hold a centerline. With clearance that can’t happen and possibly lead to noise. Tapered bearings are designed to have no play and some form of preload. Used bearings less preload then new. For an example pinion or wheel bearings that use tapered bearings, preload is measured in inch pounds.
Anyway, I can report… very happy. Worth every penny. I did the part time, low range gears, and 10% underdrive gears plus new Borla Exhaust.
Take care
Tex
I'm in the middle of this same install now (minus the Borla). Where did you order the shims from? If I recall, they are unavailable on Partsouq...
I ordered mine via Yota .. some where available some where not immediately.
The oem manual available here, that manual will cover the thickness of available. I use an online parts place partsoug for part numbers and called my local dealer for the parts and gave them the numbers to order. Most came in in 5-7 days some didn’t.
Measure the hi speed gear clearance,
