so now your shifter takes you from high range to low range and the center diff lock shifts between 2WD to 4WD. for 4WD you also need to lock the hubs.
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so now your shifter takes you from high range to low range and the center diff lock shifts between 2WD to 4WD. for 4WD you also need to lock the hubs.
I have checked everything. Scrapped the drive flanges as they were original and wore out. I can visibly watch the CVs rotate at the spindle and hear the simultaneous clunk when shifting from R to D and D to R. I can't rotate the CVs at all when parked, but I can rotate the tire a bit when jacked up, so it would seem there is play in the hub. Good news is that there is rarely any clunk when driving.when i first installed my hubs i was running in the same configuration and did so for 4 months maybe, no clunks at all.
have you checked all your u-joints?
Have you swapped your drive flanges back on?
I would probably just live with until you get the transfer case sorted out.
highly recommend the under drive at a minimum, if you are wanting lower low i also highly recommend the 3:1 low gears... P/T, under drive, low range gears 1000% my favorite upgrade(s) for my 100 series..I have checked everything. Scrapped the drive flanges as they were original and wore out. I can visibly watch the CVs rotate at the spindle and hear the simultaneous clunk when shifting from R to D and D to R. I can't rotate the CVs at all when parked, but I can rotate the tire a bit when jacked up, so it would seem there is play in the hub. Good news is that there is rarely any clunk when driving.
Yeah it's about time I got into the transfer case. I've only had the spool sitting on the workbench for 15 months....but I keep thinking about instaling the underdrive gear too.
Samehighly recommend the under drive at a minimum, if you are wanting lower low i also highly recommend the 3:1 low gears... P/T, under drive, low range gears 1000% my favorite upgrade(s) for my 100 series..
Every time unless center diff is locked. I will post a video of the CVs rotating and clunking.highly recommend the under drive at a minimum, if you are wanting lower low i also highly recommend the 3:1 low gears... P/T, under drive, low range gears 1000% my favorite upgrade(s) for my 100 series..
does it clunk every time you shift between R & D? what about between Park and Reverse?
ETA on restock?
Cheers!
Will do, sir! Thanks for the tip.Lock your tcase and leave it locked before you pull the case. That will help when reinstalling the actuator. I have some posts on my build thread that might be some help. Reach out if you run into any issues.
I do not track mine (it was bad before and still is). The much lighter steering and overall improved drivability is very nice. Increasing the longevity of the frontend was primary motivation for me.Has anyone reported the gas mileage savings?
The reduced load/stress on the front end is my reasoning as well. AWD is nice when it's needed but even out here in the Denver area it never rains and the snow is melted within a couple days. Having a part-time set-up will be more than enough.I do not track mine (it was bad before and still is). The much lighter steering and overall improved drivability is very nice. Increasing the longevity of the frontend was primary motivation for me.
Given the popularity of Rock Warriors I'm surprised to see very few pics of them with these hubs on this thread... What exactly is the minimum spacer needed for these hubs to fit RW's? I'm on 3/4" spacers and do not want more offset. @cruiseroutfit can you measure the overall height? Sorry if I missed that in these last 36 pages...
I installed the part time kit last year and have Rock Warriors. I found out they do not fit over the new locking hubs so I had them all (5) machined to fit. Kind of a bummer as the center TRD caps don't fit now but oh well. Another $250 to have that done but I love the part time so it was worth it !