- Thread starter
- #761
That is by far the #1 reason most do it. Not if but when they blow up a front diff or CV. They can limp off the trail or home. All that said, sorry you broke!
LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion
- Thread starter cruiseroutfit
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- conversion
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That is by far the #1 reason most do it. Not if but when they blow up a front diff or CV. They can limp off the trail or home. All that said, sorry you broke!
Speaking of this use case - @cruiseroutfit - Did you guys ever start listing the hubs as a separate item we can just buy without the whole PT kit? I've love to buy a couples hubs and some rebuild kits to go with them. I want to keep AWD but be able to yank the front shaft if I ever has an issue on trail....
- Thread starter
- #763
So I'm about to rebuild the entire front suspension and drivetrain, from CV axles out, so this would be the time for me to do this mod. What's involved with the front diff? I'm not quite following how the spool is needed (or where it installs, go easy on me ha). And am I correct in that the second option on post #1 utilizes the factory-original CV axles?
Thanks in advance, @cruiseroutfit !
Thanks in advance, @cruiseroutfit !
- Thread starter
- #766
Sorry for the confusion. We no longer offer TC100PTKITA and TC100PTKITB. Those were both kits that used the non-US CV axle our components. We've since developed a kit (part# TC100PTKITIFS) works directly with the 43430-60020/43430-60040 (our part# FACV60040) CV axle found in all full-time 100/470 models here in the US. You can see that kit here:
100 Series IFS Toyota Land Cruiser & LX470 Part-Time Conversion Kit (TC100PTKITIFS)
100 Series IFS Toyota Land Cruiser & LX470 Part-Time Conversion Kit (TC100PTKITIFS)
cruiserteq.com
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Any idea if this kit will work with these wheels from a 200 series with front wheel spacers? Trying to get rid of a front driveline clunk and out of ideas. I know this would fix it but not sure it will work with the smaller bore of these wheels.
Am over my part time kit. It was a work around when internals of transfer case exploded earlier this year. The last clunk in the clunk reduction journey that many of us get on. Have sourced a new transfer case out of Toyota for $1400 NZD about 800USD and will go back to full time 4WD. Can drive on tarmac and no need to jump out to switch over the hubs. Hopefully the torsen gears will sort any wheel tramp and torque steer in the front when putting too much jandal on the go pedal.
is it just the getting out and turning in hubs that you got tired of or were there other issues as well?
The getting out and changing 2WD or 4WD was only a minor issue. The rear concern was when rear end got loose a couple of times （unplanned on my part） on wet and gravel roads and I wanted the reassurance of fulltime 4WD that I was used to since buying the rig brand new. The supposed fuel saving and reduced wear on parts was not a real issue as the safety factor of full time 4WD whether its on the tarmac or off highway was the major decider. The price of the new transfer case was reasonable and better than a rebuild price. The original was 650,000km into its usage life so no real issue with having to replace it （had my money's worth out of a wearable mechanical component）. It was the last driveline clunk source to be sorted as I had already rebalanced the driveshafts, replaced the pinion bearings and installed a new set of internals to a leaking rear diff. My rig is tweaked performance wise so not keen on doing a get-by job on any key mechanical components.
Another key upgrade step was to install PDI torsen gears at the same time as fitting the new transfer case to reduce torque steer and wheel hop in the front. The front used to get a little hairy in fulltime 4WD previously and was keen to sort that out. At OEM power levels and gentle throttle all good but if I jammed the go fast pedal it would get ugly.