LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter cruiseroutfit
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I picked up a second tcase and used it for my swap. It's doable in one day. Access to a press, some large pullers, and not accidentally messing anything else up is key!
I've got all the tooling in the shop. Only, all the lifts are busy and I'd need to knock this out on the floor. The goal would be to leave the case attached and pull the tail shaft and rear covers off to access the gear clusters. All our trans jacks are for lift use so I'd need to keep this as light as possible so I can maneuver around on the floor with relative ease.
I wanted to avoid having to deal with a second case and the extra 700-800 bucks.
Decided to avoid any surprises and pick up a second T-case so I can do the conversion on the bench and not worry about any risk of down-time for the LX. Will have a super clean, low 87k mile T-case this week.
Good call. I don't know that I've ever seen a video of anyone doing it the way you originally proposed without a lift. I pulled mine on the ground with a transmission jack. I have have driven it up on ramps for more clearance.
It will definitely be worth it to be able to turn it all around and get the old gasket material off and all that.
It will definitely be worth it to be able to turn it all around and get the old gasket material off and all that.
How much does a used T-case run?
GTV
SILVER Star
I didn’t do a part time kit but I did do high and low gears. I’m sure it’s possible to do in the truck but it would be a miserable job, and I wouldn’t want to feel rushed to finish it in a day. Good call on getting a second case. I would have done the same but late model cases are pretty thin on the ground.
Also, getting it out with a trans jack on the garage floor wasn’t too bad. Reinstalling it the same way, by myself, was a no go. It’s really heavy and awkward. I had to call in another pair of hands.
Also, getting it out with a trans jack on the garage floor wasn’t too bad. Reinstalling it the same way, by myself, was a no go. It’s really heavy and awkward. I had to call in another pair of hands.
When I was shopping around prices were ranging from $250 to $1300. There was no rhyme or reason to what the asking prices were. A heavily oxidized high mileage unit could have a much higher asking price than minty one.
I paid more than I initially planned but I got a clean low mileage Cali takeout for $750, plus freight of course.
Weekends the shop is a ghost town so getting an extra pair of hands would be difficult for me. Plus my dominant arm is suffering from radial nerve syndrome so I have limited use and strength to be trying to muscle a T-case.
Despite spending the extra coin I think building the second case will pay dividends. Plus I can sell my case.
Cruiser Outfitter had some instructions posted somewhere that installed low range gears leaving the case in and tilting the drivetrain to get more clearance.
I've pulled a lot of Porsche and Audi engines on jack stands so I'm not too concerned about working off the floor. My biggest issue would be the lack of a trans jack to support the oddly shaped transfer cases.
I recently had to pull the trans on a manual Cayenne and the T-case was a pain in the a** to balance on the trans jack, and that was on a lift.
I pulled my replacement from a salvage yard for under $100. Transmission around the same.
- Thread starter
- #752
Both high and low range gears can be done in the vehicle but it's significantly easier to remove the t-case, bench build and re-install. Low range gears and/or part-time kits require considerably less tear-down of the case so it's more common for those to be done under the vehicle.
@cruiseroutfit I have the newer one piece input gear/shaft. Does the front bearing press fully until seated on the input shaft against the gear?
Appears to have a groove where maybe a clip might sit to space the bearing out from the gear.
I haven't pressed the bearing on since it would be a bear to pull if I went too far in, if it's not supposed to seat at the gear.
No "cheat sheets" came with the kits, but most of the process is straight forward.
Also noticed the land of the newer input gear design is much sharper than the previous. Had a small chip out of the box.
Appears to have a groove where maybe a clip might sit to space the bearing out from the gear.
I haven't pressed the bearing on since it would be a bear to pull if I went too far in, if it's not supposed to seat at the gear.
No "cheat sheets" came with the kits, but most of the process is straight forward.
Also noticed the land of the newer input gear design is much sharper than the previous. Had a small chip out of the box.
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- Thread starter
- #754
Assuming this isn't a part-time install but doing high range gears in a 100/470?
I'm not sure what you're saying, "land of the newer input gear"? Can you clarify?
EDIT: saw you PM, replied.
Finally, got around to knocking out installing the part-time kit along with hi and low range gear sets.
Screwed up installing the CDL motor. I picked up a spare t-case and it appeared that the motor was already
locked as the paint marks were opposing each other. Guessing it wasn't locked since the CDL won't disengage.
Looks like I have it crossed up. Should have taking the extra few minutes and connected the spare motor up to
confirm before installing. Now I get to go back into it tomorrow after work.
Otherwise, the installation went fairly smooth. Need to hit the mountain passes on I-70 here in CO to see if the
gearing has improved.
Next project, front differential. Dumped the fluid today and looked like anti-seize instead of gear oil. Can't believe
this thing hasn't launched itself yet. What a mess that was.
Screwed up installing the CDL motor. I picked up a spare t-case and it appeared that the motor was already
locked as the paint marks were opposing each other. Guessing it wasn't locked since the CDL won't disengage.
Looks like I have it crossed up. Should have taking the extra few minutes and connected the spare motor up to
confirm before installing. Now I get to go back into it tomorrow after work.
Otherwise, the installation went fairly smooth. Need to hit the mountain passes on I-70 here in CO to see if the
gearing has improved.
Next project, front differential. Dumped the fluid today and looked like anti-seize instead of gear oil. Can't believe
this thing hasn't launched itself yet. What a mess that was.
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I tell you what - going to the 10% underdrive gears in my 100 on 33s made a HUGE difference in how much I can use cruise control everywhere, but especially over I70 from Denver to Grand Junction. SO MUCH BETTER!
Of course, now I'm planning on 35s so that'll basically take the total ratio back to stock.
I'm glad you chimed in on this. I have been on 35's (10.5x35r17) for a while and was already planning on dropping in 4.88's, especially since I already need to open the front diff. The 35's have worked well with the ETC engaged full-time but still struggle with gearing when climbing I-70 from Idaho Springs to Frisco.
I'll be curious to hear your experience with the underdrive gears with the 35s up through eisenhower. I'm loving the greater power with my current setup and not looking forward to losing some of the power when I go to the larger tires again. It'll be a year or two since the tires I have now are only at 15k miles and I need a tire carrier bumper to handle a 35 inch spare.
I tow right at (or slightly over) max capacity and the underdrive gears made a huge difference in tow performance. Also not looking forward to the loss of power while towing.
But, I'm also an idiot and go to Moab with a bunch of Jeep guys...so, 35s it is.
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I'll be heading to Frisco for the weekend so I'll let you know how it goes with the underdrive and 35's.
We have a shop field trip to Moab in a few weeks. Was hoping to take the LX but the front diff is done and don't
think I'll have repairs made before then. At least the PT kit will keep the diff from getting completely destroyed until
I can address it.
Part-time install is now complete since I was able to pull the cdl actuator this evening and get that sorted.
Update:
This weekend I discovered the biggest benefit of having the PT kit installed. We were up in Moab and hit a 7 rated trail.
Had the front diff grenade and was able to work my way back down with just a quick turn of the hubs and a push of a
button to turn the cdl off. And, make the trek back to Denver without having to throw a single wrench at it.
Cheers @cruiseroutfit
This weekend I discovered the biggest benefit of having the PT kit installed. We were up in Moab and hit a 7 rated trail.
Had the front diff grenade and was able to work my way back down with just a quick turn of the hubs and a push of a
button to turn the cdl off. And, make the trek back to Denver without having to throw a single wrench at it.
Cheers @cruiseroutfit
