LC100/LX470 Part-Time Conversion Discussion (2 Viewers)

[obe12]

I was at work, to continue that thought. Measure the hi speed gear to bearing clearance end play, mine after new parts was .008 and max like .0098 . Mine at tear down was .021 - .022 something outside specs. The sleeve where it presses against the hi speed shift hub beat this out and worn a groove in the sleeve therefore opening the clearance. Also removing preload from these taper bearings on the output shaft. Ok, new hub and sleeve pressed on iOS shaft left me having to use one step thicker snap ring once everything was pressed back into position.

This accounted for .004 less preload on the case bearing too when going back together.

The rest could be minor differences between part time spool to oem dif housing that gets removed. But I had to remove .010 shin go back .0215 shim. 11.5 difference and .004 is the hub , sleeve, presses back on the main shaft. .0075 must be the housing dimension differences. Anyway there are differences pay close attention. Take your time and measure multiple times and get consistent measurements. I think it will pay dividends in the end.

Tex

 

[obe12]

I was at work, to continue that thought. Measure the hi speed gear to bearing clearance end play, mine after new parts was .008 and max like .0098 . Mine at tear down was .021 - .022 something outside specs. The sleeve where it presses against the hi speed shift hub beat this out and worn a groove in the sleeve therefore opening the clearance. Also removing preload from these taper bearings on the output shaft. Ok, new hub and sleeve pressed on iOS shaft left me having to use one step thicker snap ring once everything was pressed back into position.

This accounted for .004 less preload on the case bearing too when going back together.

The rest could be minor differences between part time spool to oem dif housing that gets removed. But I had to remove .010 shin go back .0215 shim. 11.5 difference and .004 is the hub , sleeve, presses back on the main shaft. .0075 must be the housing dimension differences. Anyway there are differences pay close attention. Take your time and measure multiple times and get consistent measurements. I think it will pay dividends in the end.

Tex

Dang after thoughts,

The rear main shaft sealed bearing….. you might consider buying a new one or have a bearing splitter to get against the center race pressing off if you going to reuse it. Roller bearing don’t tolerate hi side loads very well. This bearing ring engine RPM or greater.

Last buy extension out out seals and new bearings. Do them at the same time unless recently done.

You are there…

front extension housing, requires a puller to pull a cog off the shaft after removing a snap ring. I modified a three jaw puller to fit.

My seals where seeping, and removed my transfer case and resealed it a few months back and replace these extension housing bearings then.

 

[Dirt J]

Thanks for the info. Yes, I've got all 10 new bearings (plus races) and all seals.

Did you replace the idler race on the front side of the case (blind install).

 

[obe12]

Thanks for the info. Yes, I've got all 10 new bearings (plus races) and all seals.

Did you replace the idler race on the front side of the case (blind install).

My tapered bearings looked fantastic and reused them. No scores, and no pits. The roller rear main shaft I have a bearing splitter and was able to share the load to inter / outer race, it wasn’t stuck hard.

I have the pullers to actually get on the race and not damage the cages. The previous owner changed the oil frequently and oil was clean draining it from when I didn’t the output seals and new bearings. Those I could support .. both inter and outer races.
Judgement call in reusing koyo bearings. They looked fantastic or I would have changed them.

The front diff when I changed the locker as the same time, bearing again looked good. They frankly had very little scoring in the all the races, and bearings. Koyo such a hi quality bearing inreused them and set the preload to used bearings as the manual in the diff refers too. Now it’s part time 4x2 95% hi way miles no 4x4 these bearings will last a long time. If I did a gear change or rear I would have changed them if any doubt.

Previous owner was really change the oil and fluids yearly and he did. It showed inside the transfer case and front diff. The engine when I had it out was spotless inside too.

I went back 80w90 HD hi load oil Mobile 1. The front locker required No Limited a slip oil and HD hi load. So what the hell use it in the transfer case too.

Tex

 

[obe12]

My tapered bearings looked fantastic and reused them. No scores, and no pits. The roller rear main shaft I have a bearing splitter and was able to share the load to inter / outer race, it wasn’t stuck hard.

I have the pullers to actually get on the race and not damage the cages. The previous owner changed the oil frequently and oil was clean draining it from when I didn’t the output seals and new bearings. Those I could support .. both inter and outer races.
Judgement call in reusing koyo bearings. They looked fantastic or I would have changed them.

The front diff when I changed the locker as the same time, bearing again looked good. They frankly had very little scoring in the all the races, and bearings. Koyo such a hi quality bearing inreused them and set the preload to used bearings as the manual in the diff refers too. Now it’s part time 4x2 95% hi way miles no 4x4 these bearings will last a long time. If I did a gear change or rear I would have changed them if any doubt.

Previous owner was really change the oil and fluids yearly and he did. It showed inside the transfer case and front diff. The engine when I had it out was spotless inside too.

I went back 80w90 HD hi load oil Mobile 1. The front locker required No Limited a slip oil and HD hi load. So what the hell use it in the transfer case too.

Tex

Here is the manual tech sheet on sizes of the shims.

I wrote out the part numbers in the ones I ordered. 5-7 note is days to get.

I have a C and N if you need that size. I got two N’s on my order.

 

[obe12]

Here is the manual tech sheet on sizes of the shims.

I wrote out the part numbers in the ones I ordered. 5-7 note is days to get.

I have a C and N if you need that size. I got two N’s on my order.

 

[Wilsil]

After reading 14 pages I jumped to the last one

According to the mechanic at my suspension shop, my transfer case has an issue.
The problem I am having s that even with brnd new CVs, there is a metal clicking sounds when under load and steering.
He told me it was the t-case as he felt the shaft slipping when turning. Can't remember which shaft he mentioned, think the drive shaft.

Now I as thinking, as the t-case has to be opened anyway to have the part-time kit installed and the reduction gears.

 

[Dirt J]

@Wilsil I'm replying in your other thread about your issue with something to check.

 

[Dirt J]

Finally got my tcase with part-time spool back under the cruiser. With hubs unlocked, it drives like much easier/lighter. I'm glad I did it. Also installed underdrive, 3.1 low, all new bearings and seals.

Only hiccups were not setting the CDL actuator & front shift fork in sync before install and breaking the delrin spool spacer being dumb.

Learned a lot in the process. Hope to not have to do it again for a while!

 

[obe12]

I can report, after 4 days in Colorado north of Silverton, the 10% under drive part-time was well worth the money. The crawl low range gear with the 10% under drive allows easy crawling up over rock ledges. 1500 rpm and let to work its magic, peddle the gas pedal if need to speed up or slow and no issues at all. Down hill step grades hold speed in low 1 and engine braking requiring no actual brakes needed. Sweet... easy. 2nd gear start off for normal stuff and pull down to 1st to crawl if needed. Forgot to lock my hubs today and peddled the gas pedal up over an obstacle in 2wd unlocked when tire spun a little peddled the gas and hooked it up and climbed up and over, perfect. Engineer pass with taken the hardest lines up and down with ease. For stock gearing 33 inch tires I couldn't ask for better. Did engineer 4 times 2 up, 2 down no front locker engaged or rear. Surprised me I say. Not like like my dual transfer case 5:29, 37 inch straight front axle yota 1987 but an every day street driver and can do class 4 trails with ease. I have done upper lower helldorado in Moab in my yota truck with no damage and wench out at the end plus drive it 1000 miles to from. That is a different class for another day. This is ride in comfort, AC on, drink your water and no DUST, and do the trails in ease in a 100 series. Stony was easy, California / Hurricane pass was easy. The gearing is perfect for these types of trails.
TEX

 

[Wilsil]

10% under drive part-time

That's the reduction gears in the transfer case?

 

[obe12]

That's the reduction gears in the transfer case?

Sorry about that, yes the part time and 10 % under drive for the hi way along with low range gears in the transfer case. Those and the under drive allows a good crawl ratio for the trails in Colorado north of Silverton. Haven’t tried Moab yet… that’s for another day. Now I am on 33 inch tires 17 inch icon wheels. I get very low occasional tire rub when. Partially turned.

Brian at Slee off road runs 34 tires same icon wheels. I haven’t asked if he gets any rubs with his.

I see no reason to do a re gear now. I considered it when installikg my 1 front locker and have another to go.

If I unload the weight out of the truck , camping gear, 3 6gal of water, ice box, gear in back and allow the springs to pick the truck back to normal ride height I would do 5 rated trails possibly 6. So far I only touched lightly my full skids plates 3 times on a suspension compression coming off a ledge.
No entrance or departure hits on the bumpers. Haven’t hit my rock sliders yet. Nor have been able to cross is up in two wheels like my truck. Back flexs pretty well. Surprised me.

I stopped on one shot a pic just to look. I wasn’t using my spotter to spot me and take pics.

If doing 5-6 rated trails I would be having a to use a spotter I feel.

California pass, Hurricane pass, there are just steep and gourgouse scenery.

Stony pass I went in on. A little more technical in the trees in places with water crossing. Early summer melt and that water crossing would be something to consider.

Use to do these same trails back in the 90s on dirt bikes. Then again in adventure bikes 16-19. Now by 100 series.

Take care

Tex

 

[Wilsil]

What is the 10% underdrive?

 

[obe12]

What is the 10% underdrive?

The output shaft of the transfer case turns 10% less then the input shaft. Therefore a reduction of 10% is happening. This is done in the 100 series with changing the input , idler, and output gears.

The low speed side of the transfer case to get lower output speeds to input , requires larger gear on output and smaller gear on idler.

 

[Wilsil]

So they are two different things?

 

[obe12]

So they are two different things?

Yes, one is the 10% under drive , and the other is low range gears. All located in that pictured. There is one more mod, the part time 4x4 ,4x2 conversion. This mod is there too and not obvious. That part that has the large tapered bearing and bolts in the circle, that has been changed, called a “spool” replacing a center differential system. This spool connects directly to the rear output shaft. The front shaft can free spin when driving 4x2. When you engage 4x4 a shift collar aligns and moves to lock the front shaft to the output shaft. This connects front shaft to output and make both output shafts turn equally 4x4.

My 100 series has locking front hubs. To connect the cv axles to the “wheels” now I have to engage the hubs. Now all 4 tires are pulling together.

The part time allow the front drive shaft to free spin no load if transfer case not in 4x4 and hubs are disengage this removes drag off the drive train therefore better performance. This is a personal choice for I do need All Wheel Drive since I do not live in a snow, ice area and if it does it melts within 1-2 days. So a straight 4x4 works for me. If I lived in Silverton for example lots of snow, most of the year, I would not do the part time conversion. Stay with full time all wheel Drive with selectable 4x4.

Hope this helps

Tex

 

[Wilsil]

No snow or ice in Western Australia.

So if I understand correctly, reduction gears and part time kit is in the transfer case. Correct?

 

[mderrick]

No snow or ice in Western Australia.

So if I understand correctly, reduction gears and part time kit is in the transfer case. Correct?

the 10% reduction gear affects both hi and low range gears, it is a single gear exchange of the idler gear and requires no modification of the t-case. the 3.1:1 low ranges replace the gears for the low range only giving you a lower low. the part time kit replaces the center diff with a solid metal spool and turns the 100 series in to a true rear wheel drive or 4WD.

all of the gears mentioned are in the transfer case.

 

[Wilsil]

Ah OK, got it. Thanks.
I am only interested in low range reduction and part-time kit.

 

[obe12]

Tex here and back from my trip, 1957 miles round trip. Loaded, and had 270 awning in my ARB rack. Normal for ride height but the back is up compared to the front sighting the rock sliders to ground. This load was right at tail sagging a little below level but not much.

Hi way up, 75 - 85 mph 11.9-13.2 mpg most all the way.

Back, different route, 60-65 15.2 best, 14.9 worse at the lower speeds. Hi way interstate 40 home 78-85 mph 12.2 worse, 13.0 best. Mpg.

15 mpg OMG I never would have thought that.

Unloaded and hiway don’t know. New valve seals when I pulled the engine to fix oil leaks, but oil catch can retained 1/2 oz of oil in 1957 miles. In 850 miles it burned down from full when I left oil to 1/2 Qt down. Hum I was thinking! Got home and still 1/2 Qt down. I have seen airplanes burn down to a level it likes and stays a while. Oil has 4300 miles Mobile 1 5w-30 hi mileage. I run it till it’s a Qt down and see… how many miles before actual 1 Qt down.

Anyone else seen this oil drop to a level and hold …
Turned 384500 miles today! 379000 original starter, original rack, original ac compressor, I changed all of that when I pulled the engine to replace the oil pump, oring leaking / rear main oil seal plate o ring and seal. Oring there was leaking. Plus a lot of other stuff too preventably.

The part time , 10% unaddressed drive was worth every penny to me!

I didn’t see a great looking early 80 series diesel turn I right hand drive, California plated, full floating rear axle, triple locked cruiser! Wow I like that

Tex