Builds Land Crusher Build Thread - V2 (1 Viewer)

[Somebodyelse5]

Some useful info for anyone trying to sort out their door locks not working:

AISIN DLT088	Left Rear Lock Actuator	1	37.79	Left rear and hatch use same	Rock Auto
AISIN DLT088	Hatch Lock Actuator	1	37.79	Left rear and hatch use same	Rock Auto
AISIN DLT089	Right Rear Lock Actuator	1	37.79	-	Rock Auto

Ordered these today, will report back once I get them installed. It's a real pain to source the motors these days and $38 for actuator for an AISIN part is worth a try in my book. I have already installed new motors in the actuators and they only lasted about a year before they failed again.

Note that the rear left door AND the hatch use the same part number That doesn't seem to be easy information to find, so I figured I'd post it here... hope it helps someone in the future.

Can confirm that these fit right on and work great. Identical molding markings on what came out, and i assume those were the originals.

One note for a anyone reading this... when you get these installed onto the lock assembly there is some adjustment that may need to be done by loosening the two screws that the actuators mount with. You need to make sure that it's adjusted such that the max and min of the actuator's "throw" lines up with the max and min of the lock movement in the linkage. Make sure you test them before you button everything back up, you may need to pull them out and adjust, you can't do it with them installed.


Also, the lock cylinder broke on my rear hatch... instead of buying an expensive new one, I fixed the one I had.

Back of the lock where the tab broke off, top right ish:

In the vice, I cut off the remaining portion and filed it flat, the hit it with a center punch for drilling. Note, this material is super SOFT so be very gentle with the file or you'll have to make a spacer so that the linkage clears the washer you'll need to install.

Drilled and tapping. I drilled all the way through into the first cavity. Be careful not to go beyond that. I used a #44 drill bit and a 4-40 tap (because it was the smallest my local hardware store had in terms of the right size drill, and fastener)

Here's the bolt installed before it's bath in the ultrasonic cleaner with the rest of the parts:

And here it is installed (photo is upside down). I ended up finding a smaller washer to use because this looked ugly... but all it needs to do is retain the linkage and if you were gentle filing, you don't need to worry about spacing. Make sure to use Loctite! I used Loctite 248, it's a solid and in a glue stick type form... it's great to use, no mess. and smells like fruit.

Inspector supervising the work:

 

[Somebodyelse5]

did one of those Loncky steering wheel wraps today. It's not perfect but it's a lot better than the old leather. I was hoping this was the kind that you removed the old leather, but this one had to be installed over the existing stuff.

Tip, use just a bit of the tape to help with the lugs.

Also, the OEM heater switches have arrived

 

[Somebodyelse5]

seat belts got a bath....

ziptied the hard bits together, put a couple socks on them, and tossed them in the top loader washing maching with some woolite and used low spin, delicates, cold.

Worked nicely!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Dynamat done on the front wheel wells and under the center console

 

[Somebodyelse5]

So, while I am waiting for my new bottom cushions in the mail, I got a wild hair and started sound deadening the rear cargo area.

Tips for anyone doing this...

• Oddly enough I didn't read this anywhere... you NEED to tape if you are going to be installing carpet (so, anywhere horizontal really). When the interior gets hot the butyl rubber will squeeze out the sides and will stick to your carpet and make a mess.
• Go buy the aluminum foil tape from hardware store of your choice, it's cheaper, literally the same stuff, and you will need a lot of it.
• Work the matt into the ridges well or peel back the paper as you stick it down, if you lay it too tight when you press it in it will tear and will require taping
• save your odd shaped cutoffs and add them in the gaps that are big enough... you'll cover it with tape later
• Dynamat is nice for the wheel well areas in the front, but so far I think the killmat is a lot easier to install and way cheaper than dynamat. The texture makes it easier to cut straight free hand and the smaller pieces out of the box are a lot easier to work with (although it does mean taping more...)

 

[Somebodyelse5]

So, the first phase of my dynamat project is finished up. I ended up doing the cargo area floor, quarter panels, and front foot well areas. The rear quarter panels also got a layer of Noico 150 mil "Heat and Sound Insulation"... eventually I will add this stuff to the front foot well area as well, not sure about the cargo floor. It takes about 1/4 of the time to install.

I'm still working on the LSeat skins so I haven't had a chance to go test drive it, but knocking on the panels really shows how big a difference it makes. Next phase I'll be working on all 4 doors.... but not sure when I'll get the motivation to pull out the door cards. My advice is to get this stuff and keep it on hand... install it as you work on other projects.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Adding heated seats, some notes:

• Background and write up: 97' FZJ80 heated seat install with Toyota horizontal low/high switches - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/97-fzj80-heated-seat-install-with-toyota-horizontal-low-high-switches.899423/
• I used the Doorman 628-040 Heating Element kit. I did not use any of the relays, switches, or plugs they provided, just the elements. Each kit comes with 2 elements (enough for one seat). I used toyota factory vertical switches.
• If you pop a fuse while doing this for whatever reason, it's a 20A and it's the rear heater circuit.
• The Toyota plugs all have a part number for the plug itself and pin numbers for each of the pin locations, they are tiny but I promise they are there. Grab a flash light and a magnifying glass and look closely.
• Your heating elements have no polarity, but my diagram shows - (black) and + (red) as it helps keep track of things, but if you mix up the wiring it doesn't matter.

Here is the wiring you need to do for this to work, TOYOTA labelled pins. Not arbitrary callouts.

Here is a the pinout diagram for the plug that is in the seat (the only one you need to touch and the only one you care about):

 

[TYM4FUN]

Adding heated seats, some notes:

• Background and write up: 97' FZJ80 heated seat install with Toyota horizontal low/high switches - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/97-fzj80-heated-seat-install-with-toyota-horizontal-low-high-switches.899423/
• I used the Doorman 628-040 Heating Element kit. I did not use any of the relays, switches, or plugs they provided, just the elements. Each kit comes with 2 elements (enough for one seat). I used toyota factory vertical switches.
• If you pop a fuse while doing this for whatever reason, it's a 20A and it's the seat heater circuit.
• The Toyota plugs all have a part number for the plug itself and pin numbers for each of the pin locations, they are tiny but I promise they are there. Grab a flash light and a magnifying glass and look closely.
• Your heating elements have no polarity, but my diagram shows - (black) and + (red) as it helps keep track of things, but if you mix up the wiring it doesn't matter.

Here is the wiring you need to do for this to work, TOYOTA labelled pins. Not arbitrary callouts.
View attachment 2888446

Here is a the pinout diagram for the plug that is in the seat (the only one you need to touch and the only one you care about):
View attachment 2888447

The one thing I regret not installing when I did my leather. You make me want to go back and add em....

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Seats are done:

Loving the heated seats!

The main fitment issue I had is that the head rest leathers are pretty loose… but overall i’m happy so far for the price. They really weren’t that difficult to install once you figure it out, I had the passenger seat torn down, recovered, and cleaned + restrung the net in an evening.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

More fun stuff today....

Did a paint correction today using a sweet kit I picked up from Chemical Guys. Used a dual action 5" polisher they sell and here's what I did:
- Foam cannon bath
- Clay bar
- Orange Hex Logic pad (medium heavy) + V36 compound + polish prep spray
- White Hex Logic pad (medium light) + V38 polish + polish prep spray
- Two coats of Turtle Wax hybrid ceramic (been super impressed with this stuff for the money)
- Spent about 10 hours ... oh the joys of being single and having nothing else to do.

Left side = how it was.... Right side = first cut stage

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Next, after spending lots of time reading terrible reviews of all the available head units on the market today... even from the historically solid brands... I decided to try something else for the stereo. I really enjoy carplay and I can't manage to find my way out of a paper bag unless I have a digital map in front of me, so I ordered some stuff on Amazon.

Samsung Galaxy A7, Carlinkit carplay dongle, USB-A to USB-C adapter, USB-C spliter, and a tablet RAM mount:

I still have some fiddling around to do with the mounting and how best to interface with the existing radio... currently it's connected to my Alpine BT-147 via bluetooth and it's working well so far. The pause, play, and skip functions even work within Carplay on the tablet which was a surprise. The only real lacking feature for this setup I see for now is no backup camera... I'll report back as it gets some road time.

As for mounting, right now it's using some RAM accessories and is mounted on the @NLXTACY ashtray switch bank.

I'm excited that this worked without being really invasive... you can swap this to different vehicles and connect to the bluetooth, you can use pretty much any tablet running android, and you can even use the tablet in normal tablet mode to do tablet things like show APRS.fi or ADSB maps (all sorts of fun HAM radio nerd stuff). One note about the Carlinkit dongle, I got the wired version and you definitely need to make sure that it and the app are both running the newest version or you will have issues.

For example, here's a test in a 200 series LC that has the factory headunit with the AC controls integrated... connect with blue tooth to the tablet, all the headunit controls work here too! Pretty cool.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Coastal Offroad front bumper came in the mail this week. Going to get this going this evening, just waiting on some M12 and M10 hardware to arrive from McMaster Carr.

Got all the parts laid out and numbered according to the instructions.

Front bumper is off (anyone looking for bumper parts?)

My plan is to notch out Part Number 19 to clear the AC dryer. Seems that no one ever hits it... so, I may just leave it instead of going through the hassle to relocate it. But we'll see what happens. The kit also supposedly was intended for a deflared truck... so we'll see how the clearance is once I get the center section set up, there may be enough adjustability in the slotted holes where it bolts to the frame.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Pretty happy with the kit so far, made good progress this weekend.

Couple points:

• I managed to notch part number 19 on the drivers side to clear the AC dryer WITHOUT any relocation of the dryer itself
• I managed to assemble the wings without any downward angle to clear the fender flares, just needed to grind a bit off the inside of the wing top plates.
• The slotted holes on the winch plate were too close together (width wise, between the frame rails) and i had to file those to get the plate to bolt up.

As of this evening, i just need to finish grinding and prep for powder coat. Some pictures (and some garage easter eggs courtesy of @CruiseLanderAZ circa jan 2021)

 

[PNWTreeOctopus]

Seats are done:
View attachment 2894976
View attachment 2894977
Loving the heated seats!

The main fitment issue I had is that the head rest leathers are pretty loose… but overall i’m happy so far for the price. They really weren’t that difficult to install once you figure it out, I had the passenger seat torn down, recovered, and cleaned + restrung the net in an evening.

Those turned out really nice.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

a lot of grinding. For anyone doing this... use flap discs

The inspector approves:

Time for powder coat. Tomorrow the Bell Fabrication attic rack should arrive too

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Couldn't resist a test fit.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

BellFab Attic arrived today

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Ordered some new lights today... may be a while before they arrive but I'm excited about them.

Diode Dynamics C1 Pro's... 2 inch "spot" for the center, 2 inch "wide" for the sides... all with amber back lighting. Should look solid on the new bumper.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Just a note... these are way too small... I didn't realize I ordered the wrong ones. the SS3's seem to be the right option, going to get those ordered

Ordered some new lights today... may be a while before they arrive but I'm excited about them.

Diode Dynamics C1 Pro's... 2 in "spot" for the center, 2 in "wide" for the sides... all with amber back lighting. Should look solid on the new bumper.

Also, for those chasing any side mirror issues… the aftermarket taiwanese from rock auto dont have internals that can we swapped over to the factory mirrors. So… ill be swapping these in. Cant figure out how to pull the glass of these so they'll likely stay black.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Some parts have come back from powder coat!

BellFab Attic Rack:

Had the coastal front bumper and the spoiler coated to match the same black as well, will get pictures tonight when they are installed.

Some Ivan Stuart love: