Land Cruiser de-evolution

[Ohthetrees]

Why don't you want one? I guess if you don't wheel there is no major issues with IFS. I am tired of fiddling with torsion bars, CV's, and wish I could have some real articulation in the front end. Would just get an 80 but I really like the 4.7L.

If you wheel, the SAS is superior. For overlanding, even including some pretty difficult terrain (would qualify as light/moderate wheeling), I prefer the IFS because most overland trips include plenty of pavement and easy dirt roads, and there the IFS performs better.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

If you wheel, the SAS is superior. For overlanding, even including some pretty difficult terrain (would qualify as light/moderate wheeling), I prefer the IFS because most overland trips include plenty of pavement and easy dirt roads, and there the IFS performs better.

Sure, IFS technically performs better on pavement, but that is pretty trivial when you think about our rigs, fully loaded, weighing ~7k lbs stock...9-10k lbs fully loaded...on road performance is never going to be very good anyways, so it's not something I'm overly concerned about. Ability to clear a larger tire with a solid front axle is going to give much more dirt road performance than the IFS with smaller tires...rolling over washboards on tires bigger than 35" makes a pretty big difference. No more worrying about CV angles, no more boot tears, no more fiddling with torsion bars... all sounds pretty great to me.

 

[Ohthetrees]

Sure, IFS technically performs better on pavement, but that is pretty trivial when you think about our rigs, fully loaded, weighing ~7k lbs stock...9-10k lbs fully loaded...on road performance is never going to be very good anyways, so it's not something I'm overly concerned about. Ability to clear a larger tire with a solid front axle is going to give much more dirt road performance than the IFS with smaller tires...rolling over washboards on tires bigger than 35" makes a pretty big difference. No more worrying about CV angles, no more boot tears, no more fiddling with torsion bars... all sounds pretty great to me.

I guess that’s why people get to buy whatever suits them. I use my truck as a family hauler as well, and I wouldn’t want more than 33” tires, or to deal with the necessary regearing, rub issues, high center of gravity, and extra driveline wear, and I very much appreciate the good pavement manners when driving from Seattle to Los Angeles, and feel it performs quite nicely on the dirt on the way back north. To each their own!

 

[bwell]

So out of genuine curiosity, why did you decide to go full custom starting with Dana 50's and then a dana 44 center(I realize you intended to use the dana50 centers) as opposed to say a diamond axle or fitting a 80 series front as others have done prior. I have just been contemplating a few things for quite a while myself....

What size tires are you planning on running when completed?

Your fabrication skills seem extensive, and good luck with the rest.

 

[I Lean]

The last few days I've been able to get the panhard bracketry figured out and made, as well as the bar itself.


Frame side. This will get more welding and gusseting after the steering box comes off again.








Axle side was a bit trickier. I was able to get the panhard straight, but the bracket had to stick out pretty far forward, as well as above the axle tube. (and still leave room to get a wrench in behind, to tighten the nut)








For the track bar, I used 80 series bushings, machined tube to press them in, and some 7/8-14 B7 allthread.





Same thing on the other end, but not adjustable.





Angles match pretty well between the drag link and track bar. This is approximately ride height.





Full Left steering lock, the tie rod comes close to the bracket.





Full compression, panhard comes close to the frame. Less than 1/4" of clearance...but the bumpstop would be metal-to-metal, as if the rubber were completely removed.





Full compression on the steering box side, at full lock. This is where I was initially worried about the oil filter--turns out it's a non-issue.





Full compression, panhard gets close to the oil filter tubing, the oil pan, the passenger side frame...everything is tight. But fits!





I made some axle-side shock mounts that turned out pretty nice...but these will go in the scrap bin. I had to made new ones that drop down 1" to clear the radius arm bolt.





The new ones installed. Upper shock mounts will wait until I'm done with the steering stuff.





Steering shaft is cute. Combined parts of the 80 intermediate shaft with parts from the 100, and a little chunk of 1" tube.





Installed. I need to add a bearing to the firewall....it's on order.





And resting on it's own suspension for the first time. Using stock 80 coils. It's a bit lower than my target, which is fine--lift springs are easy to source. The front end is only about 3/4" taller than when I drove it in.

 

[I Lean]

So out of genuine curiosity, why did you decide to go full custom starting with Dana 50's and then a dana 44 center(I realize you intended to use the dana50 centers) as opposed to say a diamond axle or fitting a 80 series front as others have done prior. I have just been contemplating a few things for quite a while myself....

What size tires are you planning on running when completed?

Your fabrication skills seem extensive, and good luck with the rest.

Fully valid questions. I started with the Dana 60's because they are strong, and have ABS tone rings built in--and it is possible to retrofit different tone rings in them, which I needed to do in order to match the Toyota tooth count. I customized them because they all have a driver's side differential, so they would need to be retubed for passenger side drop anyway. The 60 center will not fit well in the space available between the frame and engine in the 100...the 44 fits in there much better. Plus, doing it this way made the retube relatively easy, since the D60 axle tubes can just press over the factory 44 axle tubes.

I am also looking forward to NOT having closed knuckles. I love the simplicity of the open knuckle/unit bearing setup.

The D50 gears in the 44 housing are just because it's possible. From the factory, the 80 and 100 front ends use an 8" ring gear. The D44 is an 8.5" ring (so it should be slightly stronger), and the D50 is a 9" ring. Dana torque specs put the 50 at 44% stronger than the 44.

An 80 axle requires the use of an 80 rear axle as well, since they are narrower than the 100 axles. And you're stuck with the 8" ring gear. And I'm not sure there's enough room to fit a coil in between the frame and tire...I did not want coilovers or struts.

Custom housings are really nice, but cost a bunch more. This way was relatively cheap, other than the labor required to build it.

I'm planning on 35" tires.

 

[Workhorse]

An 80 axle requires the use of an 80 rear axle as well, since they are narrower than the 100 axles. And you're stuck with the 8" ring gear.

The 105 series (5 stud pattern) wheel hubs and other front housing parts (bearings, housing etc.) would be able to used on an 80 series housing. The parts are all available so this could have been done without issue. You may have had to use wheel spacers on the front axle as I believe that the 100 axle is a tad wider than the 80 though.

Looks like you did a nice job and I'm sure I speak for all here in saying that we look forward to seeing it lifted/completed. Nice work!

 

[I Lean]

The 105 series (5 stud pattern) wheel hubs and other front housing parts (bearings, housing etc.) would be able to used on an 80 series housing. The parts are all available so this could have been done without issue. You may have had to use wheel spacers on the front axle as I believe that the 100 axle is a tad wider than the 80 though.

Yep, that's another route I could have gone. I would have spent a lot more money doing it that way though.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

do you have a CNC plasma for the bracketry? looking awesome

 

[I Lean]

do you have a CNC plasma for the bracketry? looking awesome

Yep, that's correct. You can see it in the background of this pic.

 

[I Lean]

While I was waiting for the firewall bearing to arrive, I put together the upper shock mounts. I also modified the splined coupler from the 100, turning part of it down to 3/4" OD. That smaller section will act as a bushing inside the firewall bearing which is 3/4" ID.



The bearing installed at the firewall. There is very little room here...no way I could have gotten it in there if the shock mount were in place. (at least, not without removing other components)



But with that installed, I felt OK about installing the shock mounts.



I just need to decide where to mount the brake line tabs, and the frame will be ready for paint.

 

[bucfl]

A lot of work but certainly impressive skills. Looks cool.

 

[Odyseuss]

It looks like things are coming along nicely. I can't help but think that the steering coupler looks a bit thin after the machining. Was that much of a concern for you? Did you do anything else to help compensate for the material that was removed, or do you have any other pictures showing how the machined portion sets in the bearing?

 

[I Lean]

It looks like things are coming along nicely. I can't help but think that the steering coupler looks a bit thin after the machining. Was that much of a concern for you? Did you do anything else to help compensate for the material that was removed, or do you have any other pictures showing how the machined portion sets in the bearing?

The coupler remnant is certainly thin--but it just takes up the space between the ~.687" splined shaft, and the .75" ID bearing. It just needs to keep the shaft centered within the bearing. I'm sure everything would have worked fine without it, but there are set screws in the bearing that I didn't want messing up splines on the shaft either. It does absolutely nothing to connect any part of the steering anymore--I have a U-joint right off that same shaft (visible right next to the bearing), and another U-joint at the steering box.

 

[Odyseuss]

Looks nice. That should work well. Keep it up, I'm looking forward to seeing that nicely painted frame.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Pile of goodies from @cruiseroutfit Cruiser Outfitters; 4.88 gears, install kit, and pinion flange for my 100’s rear axle, and D50 4.89’s and 35 spline ARB for the front. Not shown is the Jantz Engineering kit to make the D50 gears fit inside the D44 housing.

I'm back in town and jonesin' to come peak at your progress

 

[I Lean]

I'm back in town and jonesin' to come peak at your progress

I'll be hitting it hard this week trying to get a lot done--feel free to swing by. I need to get some front coils from you anyway. @ikarus , you're welcome to drop in as well.

 

[ikarus]

I'll be hitting it hard this week trying to get a lot done--feel free to swing by. I need to get some front coils from you anyway. @ikarus , you're welcome to drop in as well.

Sounds great! @cruiseroutfit let me know when you head over and I'll join ya

 

[I Lean]

Some time-consuming work done today, but it's the kind that isn't very picture-worthy. I got the brake line brackets welded on up front, and cleaned up/painted everything.



Took the rear axle apart and installed 4.88's and all new bearings.

 

[I Lean]

Productive day! I started by finishing up the rear axle...OME 860 springs, Tough Dog shocks from @DirtDawg , and I made the rear panhard bar adjustable.





Then moved to the front axle. Installed the 35 spline ARB and 4.89 gears for the final time, and routed the air line in the corner of the diff cover.





And buttoned it up with the Blue Torch Fab diff cover and a Lube Locker gasket.





Mounted the steering box. For the high pressure line, I had Hose and Rubber Supply braze on JIC fittings, then a pretty-standard hydraulic hose can connect the 100 pump and the 80 box. (you can see one of the fittings on top of the box in this pic)





Swung the housing underneath again, and started connecting things.





Pretty much done! Just waiting on front springs, and to connect the new soft brake hoses to the hard lines. (I didn't connect them to allow the axle to droop farther and make installing the springs easier) Soft lines are supposed to be for a 2001 Corolla. Front shocks are 80 series Tough Dog from Trail Tailor @reevesci , to match the rears I got secondhand.








Capped off the end of the hub with these AWESOME drive flanges from Summit Machine. Just the caps for now, since I have no axleshafts yet.