Well done!
Land Cruiser de-evolution (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter I Lean
- Start date
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Please remove the running boards!
A leveled 100 with 35s is amazing. I will one day SAS my 100 as well (read someone else will and I will pay them)
A leveled 100 with 35s is amazing. I will one day SAS my 100 as well (read someone else will and I will pay them)
- Thread starter
- #83
That's 100% up to my wife, since she will use this much more often than I will...I have proposed the idea though.
atnolan94
I'm Your Huckleberry
I got some sliders and explained to my wife that they could be used as running boards and she’s been 100% fine with it
I think you knocked this one out of the park. Looks GREAT !!!! I did the running board removal on my LX, but it sits pretty low and it gave it an instant lift ( looks anyway ). With your height on your 100 I really don't think the running boards look bad at all. Any plan on bumpers ? I actually like the clean look with your OEM ones. Any other mods ? Great build thread too.....
Got a ROM on the project cost to date, not including your labor hours?
Goodness, that's amazing. Nice job. I'm jealous.
- Thread starter
- #89
I'm not at all opposed to building bumpers for it, or sliders...but for now I'm going to concentrate on just getting this one dialed in and tweaked to my liking, and take a break from fab work on it for a bit.
That is a tough question. Partly because I didn't keep track, and partly because a lot of the parts I used were stuff I had laying around, or I bought used, or traded for, etc...and all the steel and tubing I used was already in my garage. That doesn't make it "free", but I didn't buy it just for this project.
So, my best guess is that I'm into it around $4500 maybe, plus a grundle of labor. If you had to buy everything new, to duplicate what I did, I'll bet you could double that number pretty easily. And if you have to pay someone else to do any of the work, quadruple it.
I'm not at all opposed to building bumpers for it, or sliders...but for now I'm going to concentrate on just getting this one dialed in and tweaked to my liking, and take a break from fab work on it for a bit.
That is a tough question. Partly because I didn't keep track, and partly because a lot of the parts I used were stuff I had laying around, or I bought used, or traded for, etc...and all the steel and tubing I used was already in my garage. That doesn't make it "free", but I didn't buy it just for this project.
So, my best guess is that I'm into it around $4500 maybe, plus a grundle of labor. If you had to buy everything new, to duplicate what I did, I'll bet you could double that number pretty easily. And if you have to pay someone else to do any of the work, quadruple it.
That's actually not to bad, but like you said you had access to most of the pieces you needed. My brother lives in Northern Nevada and is a fabricator. The thought had crossed my mind to send him my truck for a similar operation. Maybe I'll wait until he SAS's his 3G 4runner so he has some idea of what's going on. Great job, truck looks great.
Best thread I’ve seen on MUD in a long time.
Great damn work here.
Great damn work here.
- Thread starter
- #92
Best thread I’ve seen on MUD in a long time.
Great damn work here.
Thanks! I need to get back on this thing, finish up making it 4WD and stuff. Summer vacation time has kept me away.
- Thread starter
- #93
Finally got a chance to go drive in circles today...made some chalk marks on the pavement. They measure 38.75' apart.
That's the outside diameter of the front axle's circle.
A fantastic question!
- Thread starter
- #96
- Thread starter
- #97
Getting back to work on this--I sent both of the long-side inner axleshafts to Dutchman Axles to have them shortened and re-splined. The top one is how I received them, the bottom one is after I cut down the O.D. of the shaft to better fit through the oil seal I'm using. A side benefit of this is having a slightly more "flexible" axleshaft; it will act a bit more like a torsion bar, which can improve the durability of the shaft, as well as things like the ring and pinion gear. The shaft can absorb some of the shock that could otherwise damage other parts. (it can also absorb shocks that could twist/break splines too)
That said, I'm an idiot for not just having the D44 center machined to accept standard D60 axle seals while it was all apart. Oops. I tried to think of everything I wanted, and that one slipped my mind.
And here are both shafts machined, and assembled with the original outer stub shafts, with new Spicer U-joints. The long side didn't get cut down its full length, just 8" or so on each end. The middle section I turned down some, but it still remains larger than the ends. That's for two reasons--for one, that more or less gives me the same length of "small" shaft as the short side, and saves me time machining. (the hardened steel takes FOREVER to machine)
Installed shafts!
Since this will still be full-time 4WD, I needed a drive slug to fit the D60 wheel bearing. Nobody makes a 30 spline drive slug, and I'm not feeling the need to upgrade to 35 spline stubs, so I made my own. I gutted one of the sets of Ford hubs, welded the sliding gear to the inner splines, then placed them into the aluminum outer splined piece, bedded with JB Weld. The teeth are fully engaged, so the epoxy just has to keep the inner steel parts from coming out of the outer aluminum part--it doesn't need to take any driving force.
On my initial test-drive, my VSC light came on and started beeping at me on a sweeping turn. I couldn't make it do it again, and it never happened on any other parts of my drive. What does that mean to me? There are no ABS lights or anything, and I've been assuming I would see something like that if a sensor isn't working or whatever...any experiences with that kind of behavior? Since I've been driving with the CDL locked until now, my VSC has been off--this is a new problem for me.
That said, I'm an idiot for not just having the D44 center machined to accept standard D60 axle seals while it was all apart. Oops. I tried to think of everything I wanted, and that one slipped my mind.
And here are both shafts machined, and assembled with the original outer stub shafts, with new Spicer U-joints. The long side didn't get cut down its full length, just 8" or so on each end. The middle section I turned down some, but it still remains larger than the ends. That's for two reasons--for one, that more or less gives me the same length of "small" shaft as the short side, and saves me time machining. (the hardened steel takes FOREVER to machine)
Installed shafts!
Since this will still be full-time 4WD, I needed a drive slug to fit the D60 wheel bearing. Nobody makes a 30 spline drive slug, and I'm not feeling the need to upgrade to 35 spline stubs, so I made my own. I gutted one of the sets of Ford hubs, welded the sliding gear to the inner splines, then placed them into the aluminum outer splined piece, bedded with JB Weld. The teeth are fully engaged, so the epoxy just has to keep the inner steel parts from coming out of the outer aluminum part--it doesn't need to take any driving force.
On my initial test-drive, my VSC light came on and started beeping at me on a sweeping turn. I couldn't make it do it again, and it never happened on any other parts of my drive. What does that mean to me? There are no ABS lights or anything, and I've been assuming I would see something like that if a sensor isn't working or whatever...any experiences with that kind of behavior? Since I've been driving with the CDL locked until now, my VSC has been off--this is a new problem for me.
I know right. Here I am super pumped any my circuit breaker bracket and this dude's solid axle swapping like it's his day job. I'm blown away. Well done sir, we're all envious.
- Thread starter
- #100
For anyone interested in the axleshaft ideas, check out this thread. Lots of good nerd info. The Jantz Engineering Thread - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
The Jantz Engineering Thread - Pirate4x4.Com : 4x4 and Off-Road Forum
