Land Cruiser de-evolution

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Look's awesome!
 
Glad to finally see them installed! ;) Love the work your doing here man!
 
While I'm waiting for my springs to arrive, I took today to take care of some of the time-consuming, but necessary items.


Plumbed the power steering, and added in this cooler from an Expedition. (there is no cooler from the factory, just the hard lines to the steering rack) Had to build a little bracket to hold it in front of the aux fan.





Installed my steering intermediate shaft, which had mysteriously turned itself pink. :confused:





Plumbed the ARB and diff breather.





Changed the plastic heater T's to stainless ones, with upgraded clamps.





Trimmed and reinstalled the inner fender shields. I don't have the rear one for the passenger side, maybe I'll try to find one of those.





 
I remembered this thread while I was doing the ball joints on our 100, looking at all that beefy front end structure...

And I thought, “that solid axle guy has balls the size of watermelons.”

I also just realized you’re a local.
 
You've got some amazing fabrication skills. I am sure you thought this whole conversion process out, but any reason you wouldn't install a coilover that has height adjust-ability etc. Maybe cost factor ? Either way, love your work.....

The biggest reason I didn't do a coilover is maintenance and noise. The adjustability and packaging of a coilover would have been really nice--but I didn't want to rebuild it in a couple of years, or deal with noisy/worn out bearings, or any of the other bonuses that come with them. I want to be able to just put trouble-free miles on the thing. :) So, a factory-type setup got the nod. Same reasoning behind using bushings at all the suspension points, no joints or heims.
 
The biggest reason I didn't do a coilover is maintenance and noise. The adjustability and packaging of a coilover would have been really nice--but I didn't want to rebuild it in a couple of years, or deal with noisy/worn out bearings, or any of the other bonuses that come with them. I want to be able to just put trouble-free miles on the thing. :) So, a factory-type setup got the nod. Same reasoning behind using bushings at all the suspension points, no joints or heims.
Sounds like perfect logic to me. I am with you, less maintenance and noise. Looking forward to your completion and on to the next project..
 
It's out and about. 35/12.50 18's and new wheels will be here this afternoon, but I'll leave the 200 wheels/tires on until after it gets aligned tomorrow morning. It's sitting a little higher in the front than I was hoping, since it's basically level right now--I was shooting for a little bit of rake like "normal" for 100's. I'm not sure if the OME 851 springs will settle any, or not...I'd love for them to sag 1/2" or something. Hub-to-fender measures right about 24" F&R. The rear is OME 860 + a 30mm spacer. Those springs are used, so I'll be surprised if they sag.

 
Drool

Can't wait til it has 35s on it!!
 
A bumper, winch, sliders, etc should take care of that ride height :D
 
A bumper, winch, sliders, etc should take care of that ride height :D
Second that. When I added a (damn heavy) Toyota winch to the front of my 98 it sagged an inch or more. Felt uncomfortably nose-down. Had the guys at the garage adjust the torsion bars and level it up again. Of course your situation is different given the solid front axle.

BTW, have you noticed a difference in turning radius with your new setup? One of the thing I like about IFS is the tight turning radius--narrower than the ex's Ford C-Max compact hybrid, which I gloated about for a while until she decided she wanted an model 100 of her own.
 
Second that. When I added a (damn heavy) Toyota winch to the front of my 98 it sagged an inch or more. Felt uncomfortably nose-down. Had the guys at the garage adjust the torsion bars and level it up again. Of course your situation is different given the solid front axle.

BTW, have you noticed a difference in turning radius with your new setup? One of the thing I like about IFS is the tight turning radius--narrower than the ex's Ford C-Max compact hybrid, which I gloated about for a while until she decided she wanted an model 100 of her own.


I'll have to take measurements to know for sure. I was careful to make sure it turns sharp--even trimmed the steering stops on the knuckles to allow them to travel farther than Ford intended. I should easily hit the frame with the tires once the 35's are on there. Any idea what the turning radius of a stock 100 is, to compare? ;)
 
I'll have to take measurements to know for sure. I was careful to make sure it turns sharp--even trimmed the steering stops on the knuckles to allow them to travel farther than Ford intended. I should easily hit the frame with the tires once the 35's are on there. Any idea what the turning radius of a stock 100 is, to compare? ;)

My 1993 model 80 Land Cruiser has a turning radius of 39.6 feet. The 98 has a turning radius of 39.7 feet. Compare to Ford C-max, which has a turning radius of 35.7 feet, or an articulated tractor with a turning circle of a bit over 18 feet:
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No -that- would be an interesting mod to an LC!

[EDIT: correcting my numbers--hopefully correct now.]
 
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Good info, I'm gonna measure when I get a chance. :cool:

How is that measured? Inside-inside tire, like the red circle on the tractor? I kinda assumed it would be outside to outside...
 
Good info, I'm gonna measure when I get a chance. :cool:

How is that measured? Inside-inside tire, like the red circle on the tractor? I kinda assumed it would be outside to outside...

I think it is outside diameter---how big a circle you need to turn around in. Do double check me on these numbers!
 
I had this thing aligned, and got the bad news that my caster measurements didn't match side-to-side. :( Apparently I missed matching them up when I assembled the axle, by 0.4 degrees. That would have been great if my passenger side were the one with more caster...but naturally it was the driver's side. So, I now have a caster-correcting bushing in the upper ball joint on that side. No big deal, but a little disappointing. ;)


I bought a pair of used 35x12.50-18 BFG AT KO2's, so that made my decision easy for what tire I want to run. :D I bought two matching new ones and had them all mounted on the 18x9 +25 MB Wheels I purchased a couple months ago. Here's what it looks like with them on it:














There is some tire rubbing at times that I'll need to address. I suspect it's hitting the bottom corner of the front bumper, so that will be easy to trim. They also rub the plastic inner fender where it goes over the pinch seam--but there seems to be a lot of room behind the plastic, so I might try to heat/shape the plastic for more clearance. Failing that, it will also be an easy spot to trim.


Turning, at full lock the tire blocks just touch the radius arm. Not very hard, they aren't crammed into it or anything--so I'll leave that one alone for now, rather than limit the steering. It does make me glad I inboarded the radius arm mount though. :)
 
That just looks... so right. Making me wish I had a solid axle right now. Great job man!
 
A bit off topic...but what headlights are those? I really like them
 
I forgot the best part! With the rain today, I was able to (easily) lock up the front tires...and get the ABS to activate. :cool: That wouldn't normally be any big deal, but that confirms my custom tone rings/Ford ABS sensor/Toyota wire hybrid conglomeration works as it should :D I have no ABS warning lights either.


And, these big front brakes are pretty ridiculous. They work REALLY well.
 
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