Instead of using heat there is an alternative. If you have a bearing driver kit then select the driver for the bearing size. You'll need a piece of pipe slightly longer than the housing that will slide over the bearing driver handle. Basically you're going to drive the bearing out from the opposite side of the rear axle housing. Slide the pipe into the housing, I set the driver into the pipe in the pumpkin opening before sliding it against the bearing. A few taps from a large hammer/small sledge hammer and the bearing and everything comes out, no damage like can happen with a slide hammer.
KOYO BEARING??
- Thread starter rstoddard
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #23
What is 67N?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
US Army UH-1 helicopter crew chief. One of my former lives.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
highjack alert: 
️
I have a very long list of friends in the Aviation Community and I’ve had my feet on the “skids” more times than I can count…Salute.
️I have a very long list of friends in the Aviation Community and I’ve had my feet on the “skids” more times than I can count…Salute.
Chungas Revenge
SILVER Star
What's the Structure of the Bearing? The role of the structure and parts in reducing friction / Bearing Trivia / Koyo Bearings(JTEKT)
This page introduces News releases. What's the Structure of the Bearing? The role of the structure and parts in reducing friction
Trying to make up for my blatant highjack last post. ^^^^
Koyo has a really good series on bearings…It’s worth a read.
It should come out with a good slide hammer and one of them "puller" do dads from HF or similar, and the proper application of muscle to the slide hammer.
Expect that the bearings will be busted and all torn up coming out. Those "puller" do dads really have very little ridge to sit on and the few times I've done this I kinda missed a few and got it on the bearings themselves and tore the cage all up before trying again and getting the race.
I've also read about the welder, which is probably quicker if you have a welder handy and are skilled with it... If not, hammer time.
And I'm sure getting the right size driver and a pipe is also very doable and maybe cheaper than a slide hammer and puller do dad, if you can rent / borrow the puller or have other uses for it, it's probably the quickest and easiest, buying it just for this job, the pipe is cheaper... (but needs enough space to slide into the axle, on both sides?). (Of course, getting pipe the right size, if you don't already have an account at a local steel supplier, that can be a bit of a hassle.)
(You'll probably want the driver kit to get the new ones back in, so you'd probably have that anyways, this also will likely include a lot of hammering, but you don't want to tear up the cage and destroy things.)...
Heat will help if it's stubborn, probably won't be required.
Last edited:
I just did this on my 78 and uploaded these videos for you to reference. I used a gearwrench slide hammer to remove the bearings and the front axle nut socket to tap the new ones in. I did leave the new ones in the freezer for an hour prior to installation.
Removal
Installation
Slide hammer
Axle nut socket
Removal
Installation
Slide hammer
Axle nut socket
- Thread starter
- #29
@Mark Jennings I pulled my bearings... Turns out, they WERE KOYO. The markings were on the inside on the Axle. I was under the impression that the bearings were supposed to be installed with the KOYO name and markings facing OUT towards the brake???
I also discovered there was no "Slinger rings" or Washers behind the bearing. That bothered me until I looked at the Parts Microfiche and determined that the Washer only applied to the '69-'73 FJ40/55/BJ40. I guess it isn't used on the '74-'80. Mine is a 1978.
- Thread starter
- #30
You are right. The Puller I bought from Amazon along with a slide hammer did most of the work. I did use a heat gun (no flame) that helped, and they can out easily with almost no damage. I found that there WERE KOYO Bearing, but the markings were in the inside. Aren't the markings supposed to be facing out toward the brake?
Well, I got a 68, an early one (build date February 68) and they’re in there and have been for at least 55 years (lol)….Good Old Toyota, ‘68 and 69’ were transition years and lots of power train parts are mixed and matched. Don’t know what you got ‘till you take it apart….and as long as the P.O. didn’t upgrade or ‘have parts left over’.
Don’t know what’s in the 74 or newer, maybe some of you mudders with later model rigs could chime in….
- Thread starter
- #32
Does anyone know for certain which way the bearings go in?
not 100% sure but I didn't think it mattered which way it is installed
Doesn’t matter, it’s a roller bearing, outer race is dimensionally the same at either end. What matters is the inner race, that part of the bearing on the axle. It should protrude slightly toward the brake drum. The lip seal rides on it.
Have you removed the inner race yet?
- Thread starter
- #35
- Thread starter
- #37
Did you lube bearing before installing? I’m wondering if it should be lubed with gear oil or grease when installing?
This is why I took my 40 to a 40 specialist. I could do it, but I’m not.
