Is this a KOYO bearing? This is what I found in my rear axle. It has a metal ring holding the roller bearings in, and no visible markings on the outer ring. It’s looks okay, but I’m wondering if I should replace???
KOYO BEARING?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rstoddard
- Start date
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being this far into a project, for me, it is worth just changing it
Seems to me a bearing kit is like $120, might be a good investment now while its open vs later when you have to tear into it again. "Looks ok" might mean something depending on the experience of the inspector.
Back in my aviation days, the shop would replace every bearing in the helicopter tranny during a rebuild. Yes there were ones that were still in spec. However their rebuilds always went to schedule with no issues. Downtime and wrecks are expensive.
Back in my aviation days, the shop would replace every bearing in the helicopter tranny during a rebuild. Yes there were ones that were still in spec. However their rebuilds always went to schedule with no issues. Downtime and wrecks are expensive.
- Thread starter
- #4
Unless I screwed up, FJparts was selling KOYO Bearings for $29 /ea. the Toyota Dealer wanted $94/ea. I ordered the FJparts bearings. They have the right PN. $70 for 2 including shipping.
- Thread starter
- #5
Pulling the old bearings is the next hurdle.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Didn't all this stem from a leaky diff gasket?
If you’re that far in, spend the money….you’ll also need a slide hammer to get the little darling out…..
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- #8
- Thread starter
- #9
Yeah, I’ve been looking for a puller. I found one on Amazon (same as HF) that looks like it will work. I can get a slide hammer from O’Reilley (they don’t have a slide hammer and rear bearing puller that will work).
This has a 2-7/8 head. That *should* be close to the diameter of the bearing race. The seal measures 2-3/4” OD.
sterling
SILVER Star
Rear axle bearing? No pic shows up in the first post.
Just did mine and rented this puller from Autozone loan a tool:
Used the middle puller in the picture and worked like a charm.
The 40 channel on YouTube also has good info.
Just did mine and rented this puller from Autozone loan a tool:
Used the middle puller in the picture and worked like a charm.
The 40 channel on YouTube also has good info.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
My slider is an antique, something I bought in the 1980’s. But it has a 3 jaw inner outer puller that spreads to over 4”…… get yourself a burnz-o-matic torch (or ox-acetylene, with a rose bud) also…..heat the axle housing whilst beating the bearing out…..
- Thread starter
- #14
Heat the Axle or bearing? Someone wrote somewhere that I read about heating the bearing race. I thought it sounded odd
The axle housing….outside where the bearing is seated…..the inner race, on the axle shaft….get yourself a grinder….grind her down to almost hitting the axle, then smack her a couple of times withe a good size ball peen! The inner race will jump off.
When installing, heat the inner race in a pot of oil (I use an old deep fat fryer) to about 250, 300 degrees then slide her home on the axle. The outer race, stick her in the freezer for a couple of hours, heat the housing with your ‘rose bud’ and drive her home….big socket or pipe….
Don’t FORGET the slinger rings…..
- Thread starter
- #16
Good old Toyota….it’s listed as ‘washer’….it allows just enough oil to the bearing to keep them lubed up…but not so much it overwhelms the seal….also note that the seal lip rides on the inner race, not on the axle directly.
When you heat a tube/ring it gets larger in diameter, if cooled then its smaller. When heating the tube (axle housing) try and put heat to it quickly and all the way around in the zone where the race is. I would try the puller first - maybe it will come out, if not then your tool is adjusted and ready so you can use it before the heat leaks into the race and it tightens back up because, it will grow too. A couple of hundred degrees is usually enough and will not cause any damage. Clean, free of grease/oil will cut down the fire danger. Watch the torch tip and flame so you don't fry a rubber brake line or an electrical wire. A cold run threw will make sure you have good access. A handy rated fire extinguisher is a good plan - smothering blanket might be enough.
One more thing you might note, there isn’t a lot of clearance between the slinger and bearing and you’ll probably bend it a bit using the slide hammer…if you didn’t order new ones, just beat it back flat before you reinstall. I thought one of our vendors sold a kit…. new ‘C’ clips, seals, bearings, slingers and 3rd member gaskets….you might take a peak at SOR’s catalog before you pull the trigger and buy just the bearings and seals.
- Thread starter
- #20
So, is that why some people weld the inside of the axle tube when they remove the bearing (to heat the tube, to make it easier to pull the bearing)? Then, if the new bearing is cold, it should slide right in?
