Builds Keaton's '03 LX470 Thread (2 Viewers)

[128keaton]

New driveshaft (top):

Thanks to Principle Toyota for getting this here quickly!

Finally got the shaft installed, still feeling an odd fluttering when shifting, but its seemingly lessened with the new shaft installed.

Waiting until tomorrow to test on the highway to see if my shaking is gone. One thing I noticed on re-assembly, between the two shafts, the paint marks were painted 90* from each other. Feels fine around town though.

Reference pictures for old shaft/new shaft alignment (slip end towards rear diff)

 

[CorporalClegg]

That's some solid work put in on that truck. Interested to see what you have planned.

I had vibration above ~65 I chased down to a bad slip yoke on the driveshaft that a, new replacement fixed but now another made itself known between 50 -55, hope better luck to you.

 

[128keaton]

Transmission was replaced with a 130k A750F out of a 4Runner. See my detailed thread here:

Replacing my '03 LX470's Transmission

Hey folks. Looks like I've just about secured purchase of a ~130k mile A750F out of an '07 4Runner to replace my A750F in my LX. Background: This truck has had the torque converter replaced twice already. First was when it experienced a lockup solenoid failure and when it was flat-towed to the...

forum.ih8mud.com

The A750F swap was difficult, but doable and its finally done! The old transmission had multiple failed clutches, and potentially a failed torque converter.

 

[128keaton]

I finally got my roof rack on (courtesy of @thetoyotaman) and I’m digging the gray color contrast (my old one was black). Still looking into the intermittent idle shake/vibration. Going to put my laptop with TechStream on it this weekend.

 

[2001LC]

GOOD JOB Keaton. You really got this done complicated transmission swap done fast! Hopefully your idle issue is something simple like a misfiring coil. I've seen where coil misfires only under load at idle. I've found by watching for misfires in tech stream with foot on brake, in D and bring RPM up.

 

[128keaton]

GOOD JOB Keaton. You really got this done complicated transmission swap done fast! Hopefully your idle issue is something simple like a misfiring coil. I've seen where coil misfires only under load at idle. I've found by watching for misfires in tech stream with foot on brake, in D and bring RPM up.

Ha! It felt slow to me. I did a 3VZE-FE rebuild in a week, so this felt very, very slow by comparison.

Sounds like a plan, great idea. I really do hope its that simple. Gives me an excuse to check if all of my spark plugs are tight too!

 

[128keaton]

Well, I used TechStream this weekend to try to find a misfire, but it did not throw any misfire DTCs, even with the 'super sensitive DTC' mode set. I can feel the vibration/shake at 900 RPMs exactly. The transmission mount bolt was gone, lol, so I used the old bolt. That wasn't the problem, obviously. Injectors?

Still chasing my drone/vibration at 60MPH+, it feels better which is good. Went from a shake to a vibration. Going to tinker with the rotation of my rear driveshaft and replace the front diff bushings, but it feels very strong from the steering wheel versus my butt.

Also: injectors. 12 hole? Cheap?

 

[128keaton]

Just ordered the Febest front bushings since its easy enough to replace if these non-OEM parts fail me. Plus, its rubber. How hard can they mess it up?

Was unable to find TAB-333 anywhere in the USA, going to price out an OEM bushing cost.

EDIT:

$46.10 for an OEM p/n 41651-60010.

I also found some poly bushings to replace the lower AHC bushings. Really cheap at $18 for a pair, but those are super easy to replace and swap out as well. If I find that a cheap part works well and fixes the problem, I replace with the OEM or better spec component (typically).

 

[128keaton]

Finally swapped the driver's side lock actuator motor. Summer here is brutal, and it finally was no longer locking/unlocking even when it was cooler at night. Overall, not a bad job. Happy to finally have my lock system working again. Pretty sure passenger side is going out, but we will see later today when it has sat in the sun all day. I had to order the motors with the round shaft and collar:

4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - FC-280PT-22125 | eBay

4X FC-280 Motors with Collar - Car Door Lock and Mirror Motors - Automotive Lock Actuator Motors FC-280PT-22125. Popular motors used in many cars to operate door locks and mirrors. Electric DC motors.

www.ebay.com

This is on my 02 build date, 03 MY LX470, but others have had different shafts in the same year. YMMV.

I followed the instructions outlined here to get into the door panel:

Door panel removal process

There are some of you on this forum that are more adept at finding results using the SEARCH function than am I, so please forgive me if this procedure is, indeed, posted somewhere on the 100-series forum. That being said, I performed a search for "door panel removal" process, and although I...

forum.ih8mud.com

Then, removing the door lock solenoid requires removing the inner handle (1 bolt), the plastic moisture barrier (1 glob of misery), lower window track (one galvanized bolt with washer), and there is one final bolt holding the assembly onto the door panel (brass). peeled back the barrier, removed said bolts, broke the white plastic protector (oops), removed the three Torx-head screws on the door latch assembly (used a narrow flathead). Then, remove the door latch and lock plastic clips (unhook and swing away), and finally, pull the whole assembly out through the bottom half of the door panel. About an hour job, taking my time, and going back and making sure the lower window track sat right in the rest of the panel.

My door lock actuator casing was not held together with alot of glue like others, took very little prying. Once inside the actuator, I pulled the old motor out, swapped the worm gear from old to new, and then put back together. The result is a very crisp, clean lock actuator action.

LX470 Door Lock Actuator Replacement by keaton.burleson, on Flickr

(click the photo for a video)

 

[128keaton]

Looks like my front passenger actuator is having issues as well. To be expected, I stopped looking/counting when the driver's side went out.

 

[128keaton]

Bleh. Back at square one on the vibrations on the highway. Going to pull front DS and drive, then if not better, pull rear DS and drive. Almost at my wits end. The vibration is getting worse. It was pretty great for a bit, then now, its just plain awful. Ugh.

 

[brownfox]

are your cv shafts OEM or aftermarket?

 

[2001LC]

Pulling one DS (propeller shaft) at a time is one way. Make sure to put match marks on then and diff/transfer case, so they go back in the same orientation.

You may want to try coasting down hill at high speed. Listen closely for bad bearing sound (WaWaWa).

 

[128keaton]

are your cv shafts OEM or aftermarket?

I replaced the passenger side CV with a Napa axle, just because my boot was bad off on that side. I kept that CV and I have a boot for it somewhere, I might swap it back this weekend. I was thinking along a similar line. I can’t return the Napa axle, I think. I bought two at the same time, just to keep around for an emergency or something.

 

[128keaton]

Pulling one DS (propeller shaft) at a time is one way. Make sure to put match marks on then and diff/transfer case, so they go back in the same orientation.

You may want to try coasting down hill at high speed. Listen closely for bad bearing sound (WaWaWa).

When I replaced the rear shaft, there were match marks on the new shaft, but it didn’t line up with the match marks on the flanges (I was matching the old shaft’s orientation). Should this have mattered? When I pulled the front shaft for the transmission swap, I did put match marks on the shaft and it was put back exactly.

The vibration in the steering wheel is new, which makes me think the PS CV is a part of the issue.


I do also have a slight engine vibration at around 2k RPMs, not as bad at my one at 900 RPMs.

Is there a special way to check for misfires? I plugged in TechStream, turned on the sensitive DTC mode, and revved it for a while.Held at different RPMs (especially the ones with the vibration), and got no difference.

Injector? I’d have thought it would’ve made a small, but noticeable difference running two bottles of injector cleaner thru the tank.

 

[2001LC]

When I replaced the rear shaft, there were match marks on the new shaft, but it didn’t line up with the match marks on the flanges (I was matching the old shaft’s orientation). Should this have mattered? When I pulled the front shaft for the transmission swap, I did put match marks on the shaft and it was put back exactly.

The vibration in the steering wheel is new, which makes me think the PS CV is a part of the issue.


I do also have a slight engine vibration at around 2k RPMs, not as bad at my one at 900 RPMs.

Is there a special way to check for misfires? I plugged in TechStream, turned on the sensitive DTC mode, and revved it for a while.Held at different RPMs (especially the ones with the vibration), and got no difference.

Injector? I’d have thought it would’ve made a small, but noticeable difference running two bottles of injector cleaner thru the tank.

Feeling vibration in hands (steering wheel) is most often wheel balance issue. It can be other components in front i.e. wheel bearings, needle bearing of axle, front drive shaft CV, mud packed into rotor fins, etc. If it spins it must be considered.

I've found misfire while under load. That is, I shift into 'D' with foot on the brake, raise RPM as I watch tech for misfire.

 

[128keaton]

Feeling vibration in hands (steering wheel) is most often wheel balance issue. It can be other components in front i.e. wheel bearings, needle bearing of axle, front drive shaft CV, mud packed into rotor fins, etc. If it spins it must be considered.

I've found misfire while under load. That is, I shift into 'D' with foot on the brake, raise RPM as I watch tech for misfire.

I agree on the wheel balance issue. I'm going to get them balanced this weekend. About time for that anyway, along with a rotation.

The bearings were replaced very recently with quality KOYO stuff, but I will double back and check. It does sound like a wheel bearing, truth be told, but I would be very surprised if that were the case in the front. The rear wheel bearing replacement looks like a PITA. Done it before on my 4Runner, but there wasn't an ABS setup in the back.

 

[brownfox]

I didn’t have vibration until I replaced both CVs with aftermarket.

 

[128keaton]

I didn’t have vibration until I replaced both CVs with aftermarket.

I 100 percent agree that this is likely a contributing factor.

 

[128keaton]

Well, I got my front diff bushings done:

Made a pretty big difference in how the truck feels, especially going from reverse to drive. My old bushings weren’t awful, but it was definitely time to replace.