KDSS valve rust- WARNING (1 Viewer)

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I agree with seeing whether they'll move if there is any question. Most of us will need to move them eventually, and knowing ahead of time whether you are facing a simple loosen and tighten, or more serious work, can help avoid surprises when they do need to be moved for suspension work.
 
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About to head to aSalt states and just checked my 2020 KDSS. It has lived in Texas since import, less than 40k miles. The valve had surface rust on it. My FJ62, that has been on many trips to aSalt states doesn't have that much anywhere. Coated the KDSS with Amsoil moly marine grease after a quick cleanup with a wire brush. It will be a maintenance item from now on.
 
Why the hell did the 4Runner get an alloy KDSS valve block and not the 200?

Wonder if it would be possible to retrofit if/when the 200 cast iron valve block is shot? Probably not with different hardline configuration, likely different valving due to vehicle weight difference, etc. but really, why cast iron when it could be aluminum?

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6-minute mark in this video
 
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Why the hell did the 4Runner get an alloy KDSS valve block and not the 200?

Wonder if it would be possible to retrofit if/when the 200 cast iron valve block is shot? Probably not with different hardline configuration, likely different valving due to vehicle weight difference, etc. but really, why cast iron when it could be aluminum?

View attachment 3303795

6-minute mark in this video
Nope. the 4R implementation has some kind of actuator controlled by the vehicle.. the only 200-series KDSS valves with any wiring were for a pressure transducer on the early models.

If properly looked after the iron part isn't that bad.
 
I've got a stripped KDSS valve and am looking to go the welding route to be able to open the valve up with the ultimate goal of installing a lift kit. I'm asking a couple of local reliable Land Cruiser mechanics in Virginia but in case I can also ask a local welder to do this, what are the details I should ask the welder to do? For those who have done this, did you have a washer and then a nut welded on top? If so, what were there sizes?
 
That’s not fun at all, sorry to hear that.

Will the welding process heat up the valve enough to cause issues with the internal rubber gaskets? I guess at this point, the worst case scenario is that it does, but you’d be looking at a replacement valve in either case.
 
That’s not fun at all, sorry to hear that.

Will the welding process heat up the valve enough to cause issues with the internal rubber gaskets? I guess at this point, the worst case scenario is that it does, but you’d be looking at a replacement valve in either case.
A number of people have had welding knock theirs loose when nothing else worked. I’m sure someone could ruin a valve won’t his method but if done right it clearly works.

@dabebayehu I’d try to find a welder with a ton of experience and maybe provide them some pictures from this thread or the KDSS anatomy thread. If they have an idea what’s going on inside the valve this should be no problem for a good fabricator.
 
A number of people have had welding knock theirs loose when nothing else worked. I’m sure someone could ruin a valve won’t his method but if done right it clearly works.

@dabebayehu I’d try to find a welder with a ton of experience and maybe provide them some pictures from this thread or the KDSS anatomy thread. If they have an idea what’s going on inside the valve this should be no problem for a good fabricator.
Happy to report I got the second valve cracked loose. I took it to a local shop recommended by some other LC owners and those folks cracked it open using a slightly larger than 5mm triple square bit (size 6). Wanted to share that trick for anyone else with a stripped KDSS valve.
 

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