KDSS valve rust- WARNING

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arich

arich

Anthony. aka arich
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Guys please take a look at your KDSS valve and give it a coating of grease. I had mine replaced under warranty because it was frozen and the replacement looks like this at 12 months old.
I took the wire brush to it and gave it a good coating of Yamaha marine grease. Applied grease with the valves open and worked it in and out never going out more than 3 turns. Don't think it will be an issue forward.
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ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1428355718.214356.webp
 
I did the same to mine as well. Opened valves, sprayed PB Blaster, waited 10 minutes, worked the valves open and closed a few times (never opening more than 3 rotations), coated liberally with grease, and then closed the valves shut, making sure not to over torque them.
 
Aye carrambra.....I had better go look at mine now - I recall that entire unit looking like it was dragged out of the sea..... I didn't realize those were the valves I would have to open and close!
 
I've been warning the board about this for two years.
Poor guy posted today about his being totally frozen and now he can't install lift.
When I lube the driveshafts I just crack these valves and work them as a habit.
 
arich said:
Public service announcement.
Check your KDSS valve often for corrosion.
This part is raw iron from the factory. Mine was frozen shut and I was replaced under warranty. Almost $2500.
I suggest you remove the cover, fire brush it and back off the set screws 3 turns and coat liberally with anti seize or your favorite lube.
here is what it looked like a year after being replaced and again after I tended to it today.
View attachment 1162227
View attachment 1162228
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After seeing 1 year old replacement valves that were completely rusted...I was nervous about what I would find under my 2008. When I looked today, they were shiny-new and completely rust-free. So... Am I just lucky?

But my real question is...what the heck?? Why are some of your valves so completely DESTROYED...and some so quickly after replacement? Are you driving salted streets?

Next question... Why the HECK would Toyota use a material so prone to rust on such an expensive, critical part?
 
Markuson said:
After seeing 1 year old replacement valves that were completely rusted...I was nervous about what I would find under my 2008. When I looked today, they were shiny-new and completely rust-free. So... Am I just lucky?

But my real question is...what the heck?? Why are some of your valves so completely DESTROYED...and some so quickly after replacement? Are you driving salted streets?

Next question... Why the HECK would Toyota use a material so prone to rust on such an expensive, critical part?
Click to expand...

You live in San Diego. We live where it snows and they use salt on the roads.
 
M1911 said:
You live in San Diego. We live where it snows and they use salt on the roads.
Click to expand...

Ya. Just seems like there HAS to be a material that could have been used to protect such an expensive piece of equipment... Or perhaps some other housing... Something as as simple as a Pelican-Case-type housing...that seals those valves behind water proof material.
 
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I think I'm screwed. Can't get valves open, the ride when fully loaded is horrible. Anybody know the cost to replace the whole valve?

And as a 40 owner, when something rusts you pull it off, clean it up, replace with new components. Which leads me to ask ... can the rusty valve's be drilled out and replaced?

I've priced the valve alone and its about $900, surely it can be drilled out, no?
 
So... For those of us without rusted KDSS systems... What would be a good way to protect it when heading toward salted-street areas? Winding if instead of slathering gooey grease onto it...if something like a light coat of Rustoleum paint primer (rattle can) could work. Wondering if that might form a protective layer still thin enough to turn...
 
I unscrew mine 3 turns (NO MORE!!). I coat with anti seize and turn it back in.
Wire brush any loose rust, prime, and then paint. I check it every time I grease driveshafts.
 
KY Longhunter said:
I think I'm screwed. Can't get valves open, the ride when fully loaded is horrible. Anybody know the cost to replace the whole valve?

And as a 40 owner, when something rusts you pull it off, clean it up, replace with new components. Which leads me to ask ... can the rusty valve's be drilled out and replaced?

I've priced the valve alone and its about $900, surely it can be drilled out, no?
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Did you try the brake fluid?
Have you tried an impact gun after soaking? Worst case scenario you break the hex bit.
 
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Sorry for the bozo question, but where is that located and what does it do?

Thanks,
Carl
 
Located on driver side attached to the frame rail. Has a shroud over it. Find that and look up in the holes you'll see the hex heads. The system controls body roll and helps keep wheels on the ground when under articulation / offroad. Google it and there's Toyota made videos to explain in detail.
 
cederholm said:
Sorry for the bozo question, but where is that located and what does it do?

Thanks,
Carl
Click to expand...

Carl, here's a good explanation of KDSS...

 
Ive had good luck using dirtbike chain lube on my outdoor metal equipment. Sprays on thick and after a few days develops a durable coat that is not slick or tacky. I'm in Kentucky also, salt is terrible stuff if your a car guy! Maybe we sure all move to San Diego!
 
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