KDSS valve rust- WARNING (2 Viewers)

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Couple of CO winters and ours doesn't look bad. Wire brushed and marine greased today. Will probably do that every fall and keep an eye on it.

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Hex head bolts? Did some MYs come that way or were there replaced?
Somewhere in 2018. Seems to be phased in at different dates at the two factories as IIRC there was evidence of various build dates not being a hard cut off.

Taco said the larger external hex is actually worse about corrosion than the small internal
 
Hex head bolts? Did some MYs come that way or were there replaced?
I don't think they were replaced.
Somewhere in 2018. Seems to be phased in at different dates at the two factories as IIRC there was evidence of various build dates not being a hard cut off.

Taco said the larger external hex is actually worse about corrosion than the small internal
I would think if they were really rusted the hex head would be easier to get out after using penetrating oil. IDK, maybe it would break the head off… Regardless, still surprised Mr T would implement this material.
 
I don't think they were replaced.

I would think if they were really rusted the hex head would be easier to get out after using penetrating oil. IDK, maybe it would break the head off… Regardless, still surprised Mr T would implement this material.
Yeah I think he said the flats corrode away completely.. whereas the internal hex is somewhat out of the spray so past the end the flats remain.

And I agree, this is one major oversight on the part of Toyota. They clearly don’t put much priority on corrosion resistance in their design philosophy, and at the cost and general quality level of these vehicles that is IMO unacceptable. Then again, I refuse to live where salt is a thing specifically because I love my vehicles too much to know they will rot away even if I do everything right.. so we see where my priorities are.
 
Yeah I think he said the flats corrode away completely.. whereas the internal hex is somewhat out of the spray so past the end the flats remain.

And I agree, this is one major oversight on the part of Toyota. They clearly don’t put much priority on corrosion resistance in their design philosophy, and at the cost and general quality level of these vehicles that is IMO unacceptable. Then again, I refuse to live where salt is a thing specifically because I love my vehicles too much to know they will rot away even if I do everything right.. so we see where my priorities are.
Funny - i pick my living location on close by skiing, kayaking, fishing, and hiking trails. Screw my vehicles. I’ll buy something new when they wear out. That being said, been driving Land Cruisers as my primary vehicle and Im only up to my 3rd after 35 years so they seem to last a long time no matter what the conditions.
 
Funny - i pick my living location on close by skiing, kayaking, fishing, and hiking trails. Screw my vehicles. I’ll buy something new when they wear out. That being said, been driving Land Cruisers as my primary vehicle and Im only up to my 3rd after 35 years so they seem to last a long time no matter what the conditions.
I picked my career in part based on vacation time.. so it works out. Now I’m committed to another decade here then who knows where I’ll end up.. we have most of that stuff other than the skiing.. maybe that’s what I’ll chase at that point. Might be tough to change four decades of habits on vehicle care.

I’m also ignorant to what can really be done to prevent or mitigate corrosion, but not even having to think of it when doing whatever tinkering I want to do on my cruiser is pretty valuable.
 
I picked my career in part based on vacation time.. so it works out. Now I’m committed to another decade here then who knows where I’ll end up.. we have most of that stuff other than the skiing.. maybe that’s what I’ll chase at that point. Might be tough to change four decades of habits on vehicle care.

I’m also ignorant to what can really be done to prevent or mitigate corrosion, but not even having to think of it when doing whatever tinkering I want to do on my cruiser is pretty valuable.
Fluid film or waxoil once a year then find something else to worry about :)
 
BTW, I’ve decided not to replace mine since I’ve now got it working. I may regret this, but I’ve got a very nice KDSS valve I’m willing to sell for someone who’s looking. Shoot me a DM. I bought it last year and just never installed it.
 
I've been looking at some used LC and wondering about some cost reference on the replacement of the kids valve assembly if shot or looks like it will need to be replaced down the line. Few years ago was reported to be below 3k mark in this thread. The unit it self costs around $1k if I got the part right Air Pump - Toyota (48006-60024). I'm guessing the labor to replace is around 1.5 to 2k? Does anyone have any recent experience. Also, if pressure is lost for whatever reason but assembly still good, is there a cost reference to refill with fluid with special pump? Tnx
 
I've been looking at some used LC and wondering about some cost reference on the replacement of the kids valve assembly if shot or looks like it will need to be replaced down the line. Few years ago was reported to be below 3k mark in this thread. The unit it self costs around $1k if I got the part right Air Pump - Toyota (48006-60024). I'm guessing the labor to replace is around 1.5 to 2k? Does anyone have any recent experience. Also, if pressure is lost for whatever reason but assembly still good, is there a cost reference to refill with fluid with special pump? Tnx
Part of the issue is if the corrosion is bad enough to kill the valve, some of the lines may be bad too, and getting those changed can be quite difficult. They run along the frame rail and may require lifting the body for access.
 
I've been looking at some used LC and wondering about some cost reference on the replacement of the kids valve assembly if shot or looks like it will need to be replaced down the line. Few years ago was reported to be below 3k mark in this thread. The unit it self costs around $1k if I got the part right Air Pump - Toyota (48006-60024). I'm guessing the labor to replace is around 1.5 to 2k? Does anyone have any recent experience. Also, if pressure is lost for whatever reason but assembly still good, is there a cost reference to refill with fluid with special pump? Tnx
I accidentally backed out one of the valves too far and needed to have it repressurized. That was a $1100 error. No components were replaced. Just fluid and labor. Crazy, but had no choice. Here’s a link I started about that with lots of info from others.

 
So should I just clean mine up and slather it in grease and not try to see if they move? I have no need to see if they move right now.
 
So does my 18
 
So should I just clean mine up and slather it in grease and not try to see if they move? I have no need to see if they move right now.
If it were me, I’d try to see if they move. Just 1/2 a turn. Then I’d grease them up, then tighten them back up. I just do this once a year.
 
So should I just clean mine up and slather it in grease and not try to see if they move? I have no need to see if they move right now.
For me…why mess with it if it ain’t broken?! Will it change what you do if it does move? If it does not? No. So why mess with it?
 
For me…why mess with it if it ain’t broken?! Will it change what you do if it does move? If it does not? No. So why mess with it?
In my mind, cycling them a little every now and again increases the likelihood hood they stay unfrozen for when I do need to open them. I’ll probably never be done tweaking my suspension so that’s important to me. I also like getting a little grease or anti-seize or whatever on part of the threads before I tighten it up. It just gives me peace of mind that’s the only real reason.
 

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