My KDSS valve and the area around it are quite rusted. I plan on brushing off the rust and applying a rust resistant spray. One question is around turning the valve (no more than 3 times) - will I need to if I only plan to use stock suspension? Or it’s irrespective due to need to get lubrication in valve groove?
KDSS valve rust- WARNING
- Thread starter arich
- Start date
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bloc
SILVER Star
I’d want to get them loose just to know if it’s something I have to worry about in the future. Plus if you don’t get them loose, and as you said pull some rust inhibitor into the treads, whatever condition you have will only get worse.
If you’re staying on stock suspension you shouldn’t “need” to open them, but even things like adding the factory spacer or replacing front suspension components in the future due to wear means they will need to be operable.
Cleaned mine up yesterday. Both bolts backed out no problem. 6mm hex key fits perfect.
Used some lps3 and mounted the cover back up.
A little steel wool worked perfectly to clean off the bit of rust I had on the valve face.
Next is to try to level it out a bit more. The rear is sitting pretty level, but the front fender gap is off more than I'd like.
Pertaining to the 2 valves, are they both for the open system, or is one for the back, one for the front?
All videos show cracking both to level side to side..
Used some lps3 and mounted the cover back up.
A little steel wool worked perfectly to clean off the bit of rust I had on the valve face.
Next is to try to level it out a bit more. The rear is sitting pretty level, but the front fender gap is off more than I'd like.
Pertaining to the 2 valves, are they both for the open system, or is one for the back, one for the front?
All videos show cracking both to level side to side..
bloc
SILVER Star
It’s more like one valve is for the top of the rams above the pistons and the other is for blow them. And what each valve is opening is a circuit from the top/bottom to the central circuit in the system which has the accumulators that allow changes in system volume.
Basically, opening only one valve doesn’t do anything meaningful.
bloc
SILVER Star
If you haven’t already seen it I put together a thread cutting apart a KDSS valve to understand how it works.. IMO it’s pretty interesting stuff.
Anatomy of a KDSS valve
I think you guys and gals are gonna like this.. HUGE thanks to @jimoldguy who shipped me his rust-damaged KDSS valve after it was replaced for him with a new one. That can't have been cheap. Fortunately for me he kept the old one, and when I PM'd asking if he'd send it for a project I'm working...
forum.ih8mud.com
I had my accumulator, front lines and front cyllinder replaced. I had thought of fitting some heady duty plastic sheet before bolting on the accumulator, wrapping it around the top, bottom and front when done and tie wrapping the ends on the lines. All in an effort to isolate it from salt and mud. In the end, that was overthinking it and potentially allowing water to accumulate inside the plastic.
So, I did spray the hell of everything with Surface Shield, which I've been using for three years now. It's much better at NOT washing off, unlike Fluid Film.
An annual checkup by removing the cover is all that's needed now. I wish I had known that 8 years ago!
So, I did spray the hell of everything with Surface Shield, which I've been using for three years now. It's much better at NOT washing off, unlike Fluid Film.
An annual checkup by removing the cover is all that's needed now. I wish I had known that 8 years ago!
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bloc
SILVER Star
You need some penetrating oil on there, and to let it sit for a while so it can work. A while. Like, I'd reapply a few times over a couple week period. If that doesn't let them loosen, then time for some heat.
Above all, don't strip out the hex holes. Use a very high quality 5mm bit, dig anything out of the hole that prevents the bit from seating fully, and stop turning before the bit slips out or strips.
Some people have had to pay a welder to attach nuts to the valves.. in that case the heat probably helps even more.
If yours are already that bad, they'll only be even worse in a couple years when it turns out you have to loosen them. I'd just sort it out now.
I am going to be spraying with the CRC Marine stuff tomorrow. A few questions from on your experience: 1) did you remove the front skid plates (metal and plastic) to spray under that area? Any areas you avoided (outside of the brakes and exhaust)?
I have an aftermarket skid which allows me to reach down there pretty easily. I use a compressor to spray on the stuff so it really gets everywhere easily.
Correct, avoid exhaust and brakes; everything else is good to go.
Don't be cheap, spray away liberally. I use the clear stuff so I can see any rust forming underneath it. The black is prettier but you can't see any new rust until it's too late.
I'm referring to Surface Shield here.
I've had great success with Corossion-X penetrant.
To really remove the rust, not convert it, Evaporust is great. I would put a bucket underneath, a pump and a couple plastic lines to squirt the liquid over all that rust. The liquid recirculates for hours and does its thing.
Getting it on the bottom may be tricky. So, try to soak the entire assembly in the bucket of the liquid.
Last option: dry ice. I've used pellets wrapped around a KDSS line (with a towel) to free it from the accumulator threads. After hours with various penetrating oils, 10 minutes of dry ice did the job. The difficulty here is to put the dry ice only on the bolt, not the accumulator body. You should be able to do it holding one pellet against the bolt. As noted, clean out the hex area first, then use the pellet.
Awesome. Will wear aspirator mask and a google. Thought about getting a Tyvek suit but will just wear old clothes. Hoping it all turns out well.
A simple mask is fine. Just set the gun to not atomize too much. You want drops to settle on the truck, not mist to fly in the air.
Once you’re done with the KDSS valve, slather it up with some blue marine grade grease to ensure it doesn’t get any worse.
