KDSS valve rust- WARNING (2 Viewers)

[bloc]

Another funny observation, in the 4Runner world, is how many people don't believe you need to open the KDSS valves to set the suspension level/lean properly, yet it's pretty well known that it needs to be done on a 200 series.

I’d bet if you look in the FSM for 4runners the procedure does include balancing the valves. And that may be the issue.. perhaps we are just more by-the-book on how we do things around here.

I’ve spend a fair amount of time thinking about KDSS trying to understand how it works, as well as why it leans. And honestly I can’t see why you’d NEED to balance the circuits (open valves) during suspension work. Perhaps to make work easier as if the swaybars are effectively disconnected (what happens when you open the screws) any work done to one side won’t be hindered by the position of the other.

Either way.. that is what the book says. If my suspicion is correct and it’s not really needed it wouldn’t be the first time toyota included procedures that weren’t absolutely necessary.. it’s up to each of us to decide whether we want to bother.

 

[crikeymike]

I’d bet if you look in the FSM for 4runners the procedure does include balancing the valves. And that may be the issue.. perhaps we are just more by-the-book on how we do things around here.

I’ve spend a fair amount of time thinking about KDSS trying to understand how it works, as well as why it leans. And honestly I can’t see why you’d NEED to balance the circuits (open valves) during suspension work. Perhaps to make work easier as if the swaybars are effectively disconnected (what happens when you open the screws) any work done to one side won’t be hindered by the position of the other.

Either way.. that is what the book says. If my suspicion is correct and it’s not really needed it wouldn’t be the first time toyota included procedures that weren’t absolutely necessary.. it’s up to each of us to decide whether we want to bother.

You're right, it might just be to make life easier, yet possibly not required. It's hard enough to get the front sway bar in position even with the valves open, so I can't imagine what it's like without doing that.

 

[jimoldguy]

spray it down with LPS3 or fluid film today! Yours looks real good it should stay that way if you get it coated.

 

[ElJayBird]

spray it down with LPS3 or fluid film today! Yours looks real good it should stay that way if you get it coated.

Agree on LPS3 - it’s the best that I’ve found.

 

[steve berman]

Many, many people would be jealous of your KDSS situation. Looks great.

Thank you for your feedback. I was terrified based on what I have read here. I will keep it maintained for sure!

 

[NMNORSSE]

Coated my 2018 with LPS3 the week I got it and recoated yesterday even though it looks fine.

BTW, the '18 KDSS does not have hex head screws, they are regular bolt heads. 8mm maybe.

 

[Alabtech]

Checked my ‘18 LC today and it was rusted. I was able to turn the bolts fortunately and coated them and the valve with grease. Thanks for the PSA!

 

[bloc]

I don’t want to freak you guys out but if you are driving in an area with road salt I’d go beyond coating the bottom valve face. There have been pics on here of valves that maybe half the material had corroded away. Clearly not just the lower surface.

With that knowledge I’d be coating the whole thing and the nuts on the lines in areas prone to vehicle cancer.

 

[Alabtech]

I don’t want to freak you guys out but if you are driving in an area with road salt I’d go beyond coating the bottom valve face. There have been pics on here of valves that maybe half the material had corroded away. Clearly not just the lower surface.

With that knowledge I’d be coating the whole thing and the nuts on the lines in areas prone to vehicle cancer.

Thanks, that’sf good advice. Once my tools get here I plan on cleaning up the whole thing with a wire brush and coating everything that’s rusted.

 

[NMNORSSE]

I don’t want to freak you guys out but if you are driving in an area with road salt I’d go beyond coating the bottom valve face. ...

Good advice! I'm in the high desert of New Mexico where we get 9 inches of precipitation in a non-drought year including snow. It is very rare for the roads to be salted which is why cars from here last.

 

[afgman786]

Are these the kdss valves....? 2008
It's on driver side right?

 

[bloc]

Are these the kdss valves....? 2008
It's on driver side right?

View attachment 2093618

Technically they are valves in the KDSS system but not the ones everyone is discussing. Those are where the system is charged & flushed.

The main valve assembly is on the inside of the left frame rail and is covered by a thin sheet metal cover with a few holes along the bottom. The lines in your picture wrap over the top of the frame and go into the main valve assembly.

Side note: how did you get your frame so clean and shiny? Steam wash?

 

[afgman786]

Technically they are valves in the KDSS system but not the ones everyone is discussing. Those are where the system is charged & flushed.

The main valve assembly is on the inside of the left frame rail and is covered by a thin sheet metal cover with a few holes along the bottom. The lines in your picture wrap over the top of the frame and go into the main valve assembly.

Side note: how did you get your frame so clean and shiny? Steam wash?

Thanks! I'll make sure I'm looking into the right spot tomorrow when I'm under there again

Texas truck, so PO took care of it. I did just get done pressure washing it when taking that picture. getting under there again tomorrow to apply fluid film before putting BudBuilt skids on.

 

[fasteddie2015]

I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning.

Just to recap:

Brush away any rust
PB Blaster to loosen
Exercise the adjustment screws
Coat with LPS3, fluid film or marine grease.
Exercise the screws and re-coat once a year

My 2015 LC has spent its time in New Mexico and TX so hoping its not too bad

Couple questions:

- Why would it matter if the screws are stuck if I'm always going to run stock wheels, tires, etc with no lift
- Is it enough to just exercise the screws to see if they move or do I need to back them out to coat the threads. I'm a little nervous about going too far and causing problems rather than preventing them.

 

[afgman786]

I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning.

Just to recap:

Brush away any rust
PB Blaster to loosen
Exercise the adjustment screws
Coat with LPS3, fluid film or marine grease.
Exercise the screws and re-coat once a year

My 2015 LC has spent its time in New Mexico and TX so hoping its not too bad

Couple questions:

- Why would it matter if the screws are stuck if I'm always going to run stock wheels, tires, etc with no lift
- Is it enough to just exercise the screws to see if they move or do I need to back them out to coat the threads. I'm a little nervous about going too far and causing problems rather than preventing them.

You DO NOT want to take them out! From what I've seen here on the forums is 2-3 turns max

 

[fasteddie2015]

You DO NOT want to take them out! From what I've seen here on the forums is 2-3 turns max

Yeah. I dont even want to turn them 2-3. I'm thinking if I can move them at all, and then coat over the outside, I should be good. Was wondering if that would be adequate, keeping in mind I've managed to strip threads of all sizes and even snap off wheel lugs by hand.

 

[afgman786]

@fasteddie2015 hopefully someone with more knowledge on this can chime in to answer that

 

[bloc]

I know what I'll be doing tomorrow morning.

Just to recap:

Brush away any rust
PB Blaster to loosen
Exercise the adjustment screws
Coat with LPS3, fluid film or marine grease.
Exercise the screws and re-coat once a year

My 2015 LC has spent its time in New Mexico and TX so hoping its not too bad

Couple questions:

- Why would it matter if the screws are stuck if I'm always going to run stock wheels, tires, etc with no lift
- Is it enough to just exercise the screws to see if they move or do I need to back them out to coat the threads. I'm a little nervous about going too far and causing problems rather than preventing them.

By the book you’ll need to balance the system (loosen the screws) before/after any suspension work. So even if staying stock, if you ever replace struts, bushings, etc with original parts to refresh the suspension, they must be able to turn. Technically. IMO it’s not absolutely necessary but that’s what the book says.

Plus, if you ever end up with a lean from parking on the wrong surface or something you’ll want to be able to open them.

With the history of your truck I don’t think you’ll have any problems. You are local so if you want some experience around when you attempt to open them just let me know.

As long as you don’t go past 3 there really is no risk, and personally I like the idea of having the protruding 3 threads lubed, at least the first time.

 

[fasteddie2015]

You are local so if you want some experience around when you attempt to open them just let me know.

Might take you up on your offer.

 

[fasteddie2015]

Crawled under my 15 LC today and here's what I found. Some surface rust which I brushed off... most of it anyway. Pulled the shroud off (3 bolts as shown in my pic. Took me a few minutes to find the one in the middle. No need to remove the second bolt to the rear. Its holding on something else.) One hex nut moved easily. The other didn't budge, even with a breaker bar on the hex. Didn't want to force it too much as I'm bad about stripping heads, threads. Hit it with some PB Blaster and put the shroud back on. I'll see if I can break the second hex loose tmrw. Need to get some LPS3 or something like it, so no rush. I think I got lucky on the condition of the valve body.

On a separate note, the under carriage and chassis is a mess. Need to find out how to clean it up without the benefit of having a lift.