reddog90
SILVER Star
You guys like LPS3 better than fluid film? I use fluid film on my 40 a lot. It seems to creep into tight areas well. But I don't have long term experience with it yet.
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Seeing that the 2019 have the galvanized/anodized hex bolts, is this still a concern? (Sorry for stupid question.)
Yes, and you answered your own question. It's a matter of how often do you want to reapply the product. It's been a couple of years since I sprayed the frame welds and now I just touch up areas in the spring after a good winter of slush blasting. I have had 1 or 2 cans around for the the past 30 years and I can't remember when I bought the second can. I am not very good at math but I started using LPS 3 on aircraft before that. The Fluid Film fumigation looks nice for a while I suppose.You guys like LPS3 better than fluid film? I use fluid film on my 40 a lot. It seems to creep into tight areas well. But I don't have long term experience with it yet.
Got my LPS3 delivered yesterday, finished it up today. Still had to use a breaker bar on one of the hex, but the PB Blaster helped and it was not too hard. Anti seize on the hex threads and retightened them. Leaned hard on the hex key, did not use a torque wrench. Hopefully they're tight enough. Then LPS3 on the whole body. Even one of the drips dried. That impressed me.
They don't come into play for routine alignment. If you're keeping stock, just keep them greased. Even if they seize I would leave them and not fight with them (just keep them greased so they don't get worse) until the time comes you need to.Probably looking for a 200 series soon. Reading this thread is a great heads up for pre purchase inspection.
My questions: Once the screws are exercised, are they returned to some specific depth or torque spec? I see it mentioned that their function is very important if a lift/suspension component replacement is done. But what about someone keeping their LC stock? Do they come into play during a routine alignment? Trying to assess what an owner actually needs to do with these aside from keeping them from getting locked up.
You'd likely need the dealer-specific special service tool (SST).My 2018 had a nice patina of rust on the valve body already. Cleaned and coated with grease. I also cleaned and moved the bleed nipple above the valve just to keep it in working condition. The question came to my mind as to how would one replace the bleed nipple if required?
You'd likely need the dealer-specific special service tool (SST).
If your valve isn't very rusty, use a hex wrench and break it loose 1-2 turns (definitely no more than 3!), coat the entire bottom of the KDSS body and the screws with good marine grease, then re-tighten. I'm in Chicago where the asphalt highways are practically white with salt in the winter and my KDSS valves have held up better than anything on my undercarriage, which gets a liberal fluid film coating every November.
Wait wait wait... don’t open the bleed nipples unless you want to pay the dealer to repair it! Only the two balance screws on the bottom can be opened 3 turns or less without losing system pressure.
Unless I have the wrong idea about what bleed nipple we are talking about.
FWIW unless you have a KDSS failure or open the screws too far, you should never need to open the bleeder nipple. If the nipple has to be opened, you're in big KDSS repair land anyway, just replace the entire KDSS cylinder and paint it at that point
It seems best to keep it from rusting in the first place, but you are taking a risk of causing problems in moving it at all, to keep a screw moving that really isn’t needed unless you need a major repair. At which point you’d probably just replace he whole valve body anyway.You mean this is one bleeder nipple is the one that is best to let rust close permanently?