KDSS valve rust- WARNING (2 Viewers)

[bloc]

Thanks for the replies. My valve unit doesn't look too bad. I sprayed it with penetrating oil and wire brushed it and got the hex holes cleaned out so I could get the 5mm hex in the holes. Got one to break loose but the other won't budge. Bent my hex key. Will try to find a more solid T-handled one and maybe use a pipe cheater. Anyone got any tips? I assume a torch is a really bad idea but confess I looked it and thought hmm....

Find a HIGH QUALITY (meaning good tool steel bit) 5mm Allen socket which will probably be 1/4 drive.. then a 1/4 drive to 3/8 drive adapter, and avoid any 1/4” extensions.

The goal is to have a lot of leverage but very little flex in the extensions. With this setup you can push (hard) into the bit while turning the ratchet. You want to avoid flex so that all of the torque is transmitted directly to the head, and the upward force can help keep the 5mm bit from getting pushed out of the head.

 

[ekberger]

Due to the dire warnings of rusted valves, two years ago on the same day I picked up my new 200 series I pulled the plate covering the KDSS valve and sprayed it with LPS3. Yesterday while doing some maintenance I again pulled cover to check the valve and fittings. They looked like the day they came out of the factory. Absolutely no rust. This stuff works! I probably should have sprayed the entire underside.

 

[Union]

I ordered a can of lps3. 25 bucks is cheaper than the alternative.

 

[TonyP]

The TDS for LPS says it has an odor of Mild Cherry.

 

[Union]

The TDS for LPS says it has an odor of Mild Cherry.

I saw that lol just to hide the nasty chem trails your breathing in.

 

[kcjaz]

Find a HIGH QUALITY (meaning good tool steel bit) 5mm Allen socket which will probably be 1/4 drive.. then a 1/4 drive to 3/8 drive adapter, and avoid any 1/4” extensions.

The goal is to have a lot of leverage but very little flex in the extensions. With this setup you can push (hard) into the bit while turning the ratchet. You want to avoid flex so that all of the torque is transmitted directly to the head, and the upward force can help keep the 5mm bit from getting pushed out of the head.

Good advice! I got the stuck one to move with a 7" 5mm 3/8 socket drive allen. Was prepared to use 1/2" drive adapter and breaker bar but didn't need it. Will now lube it up and coat with marine grease. Thanks for the help.

 

[tominboise]

We used LPS at Boeing to spray everything underneath the aircraft (wheel wells, wing leading and trailing edge hidden by slats/flaps, etc). Worked great.

 

[kcjaz]

Not knowing what LPS was, I of course googled it. There appear to be multiple LPS products, LPS1, 2, 3, and 4. Which one are you guys talking about?

 

[bloc]

Not knowing what LPS was, I of course googled it. There appear to be multiple LPS products, LPS1, 2, 3, and 4. Which one are you guys talking about?

LPS3 is linked above.. I assume that's what @tominboise is posting about.

 

[tominboise]

Yes, LPS3. Deposits as a waxy film.

 

[jimoldguy]

final cost of KDSS valve was $2626.00 The cannon ball that my brother brought up from the bottom of the ocean had less rust. the vehicle has been in service since Jan 2012 and has some surface rust on the rear end, but not like this. I always thought that the screwulater valve was a joke: Toyota calls it a KDSS accumulator. New one is getting coated with fluid film or LPS3.

 

[TonyP]

That is absurd.

 

[bloc]

I really wish I knew what that electrical harness is for

 

[Sandroad]

That is absurd.

And absolutely inexcusable.

 

[jimoldguy]

the electrical harness goes to what looks like some type of pressure swit

I really wish I knew what that electrical harness is for

I really wish I knew what that electrical harness is for

if you look at the lower left of picture you can see a pressure sensor or something. So, I would guess that if the pressure fails a warning light would come up some where in the system.

 

[bloc]

Interesting. I thought I remember crawling around under my 2013 and couldn’t find any wires at all.

From these pics it would seem coating just the bottom unpainted surface of the unit isn’t enough..

Or are we thinking the corrosion started there, got under the paint, and spread like cancer?

 

[steve berman]

Thanks for the warning on this. Can anyone comment on my KDSS situation? I took a pic, and see some rust, but doesnt seem quite as bad as yours OP.

 

[bloc]

Thanks for the warning on this. Can anyone comment on my KDSS situation? I took a pic, and see some rust, but doesnt seem quite as bad as yours OP.

View attachment 2085962

Many, many people would be jealous of your KDSS situation. Looks great.

I'd still verify the screws turn, but I'm betting you wont have any trouble. Put the truck on level ground and MAKE SURE YOU DON'T GO PAST THREE TURNS. Really no need to go the full three unless you are trying to reset the system. If you go with a socket to allen bit, make sure it's high quality and adapters to 3/8" drive as close to the bit as possible will help with flex. The torque setting is quite low, 10ft-lb. Highly advise you don't just go crazy on them.. get a torque wrench that will cover it. In-lb can make it more precise.

Beyond that, just clean it up with a wire brush, coat liberally with LPS3, and button it up. I then clean and re-coat once per year.

 

[Willy beamin]

hit it with a wire wheel or wire brush. knock that surface rust off. then back the valve / screws out 2-3 turns each - no more than that, coat the valve threads with anti-seize, tighten them back in and coat the unit with rustoleum or like product. check it after the winter and reapply as needed.

 

[crikeymike]

The torque setting is quite low, 10ft-lb. Highly advise you don't just go crazy on them.. get a torque wrench that will cover it. In-lb can make it more precise.

I hadn't read this thread in quite a long time, but was just about to ask about the factory torque setting of those allen head bolts in there. I was thinking maybe that's part of the issue, that they came with a high torque to start with and that's part of the issue.

Another thing may be if these build up with high heat at all? Kind of solidifying them into place more and more over time. Then maybe during cool down, getting condensation perhaps to accelerate the rust on the outside, depending on the climate.

Another funny observation, in the 4Runner world, is how many people don't believe you need to open the KDSS valves to set the suspension level/lean properly, yet it's pretty well known that it needs to be done on a 200 series. FWIW, 4runners have a different block and use bolt heads instead of allens, and the block looks like aluminum of some sort. I don't want to post a photo though, so as not to confuse others that read this for what they're looking for on their 200's.