Builds It was the Prospector's Idea (1 Viewer)

[3_puppies]

I didn't pay attention to where on the rad it is connected,
is it connected to the bottom of the rad?
it should be in the middle of the lower hose, the lower rad hose should be 2 pieces with a metal pipe between them, that is where the heater hose goes to.
the bottom rad should just be a drain

this thread shows a later 2F pipe, the earlier version is only 6" long or so, but should give you the idea

Heater hose routing?

I'm finally getting around to replacing ALL the hoses and am trying to do it the original way. I have a brand new "pipe" #16577 that, when I dry fit, seems to send the heater hose right into the fuel line coming off of the fuel pump. How should that be routed? .....am assuming having the...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[90WT]

I didn't pay attention to where on the rad it is connected,
is it connected to the bottom of the rad?
it should be in the middle of the lower hose, the lower rad hose should be 2 pieces with a metal pipe between them, that is where the heater hose goes to.
the bottom rad should just be a drain

this thread shows a later 2F pipe, the earlier version is only 6" long or so, but should give you the idea

Heater hose routing?

I'm finally getting around to replacing ALL the hoses and am trying to do it the original way. I have a brand new "pipe" #16577 that, when I dry fit, seems to send the heater hose right into the fuel line coming off of the fuel pump. How should that be routed? .....am assuming having the...

forum.ih8mud.com

HA! Another Surprise! A heater hose is indeed connected to the bottom of the radiator. But I also have hose at the tie-in point in the middle of the lower rad hose. Curious. I'll dig around a bit more tonight and see what's going on down there.

 

[90WT]

We have an in-line coolant heater! Don’t know if it’s fully operational, but it’s there.
It’s the red can in the pics. Branched into the heater hose return at the top of the engine. Supplied from the drain plug at the radiator. We plugged it in and heard it hiss and gurgle a bit. Probably better reroute it if I’m gonna keep it.

 

[3_puppies]

going from memory, the stock setup
heater hose T's off the lower coolant hose to the firewall
out the firewall up over to the driver side rear head, valve on head
newer rigs have a shutoff on the firewall.

 

[REZARF]

Good progress Matt, you'll have a solid trail rig in no time!

 

[90WT]

After letting the FIPG set up overnight, we just couldn't resist going for a drive even though the roads were snot and the carb is still rough.
The Prospector stickered it up with a fresh TLCA badge and we spent 15 minutes cruising the hood. So fun! We both had big stupid grins after that.
Fast forward 24 hours and it seems like our leak repair is holding. A fresh cardboard testing strip under a 50 year old rig won't lie.

 

[REZARF]

Yeah buddy! Looking good!

 

[90WT]

Hmm. Those don’t look stock. Both doors have a bit of up and down movement with the slop from the smaller bolt diameter. The doors are a pain to open and have huge air gaps.
@3_puppies Maybe you’ve got some pins?

 

[pigmony]

It's not just pins. There's bushing that go in there too. That was a lame PO "mod".

 

[3_puppies]

yep plastic bushings, 2 go in the door part of the hinge

 

[REZARF]

Buy the bronze ones (bushings) bro... the plastic ones last a season or two at most.

The doors adjust very well. With a little time and effort they will line up, open/close and seal up. The hinges are actually bolted to the tub up under the dash and can be moved in/out up down. Then the door can be adjusted on the door mounted hinges, then the strikers...

 

[pigmony]

The hinges are actually bolted to the tub up under the dash and can be moved in/out up down. Then the door can be adjusted on the door mounted hinges, then the strikers...

I need to spend some time doing this adjustment with my doors. They don't line up as well as one would hope. Another curious little quirk of my truck is that if you close the door too hard the locks will unlock.

 

[pb4ugo]

Hinge bushings are a good idea, but b4 you do anything to align the doors, you should pitch the SAE grade 5 bolts and get the proper hinge pins.

 

[Catching Neutral]

@90WT ...I recently installed @SMG stainless steel pins/copper bushings. Ill be happy to donate the pins/plastic bushings I removed. The pins are perfectly fine. I would recommend getting some bronze bushings as the plastic ones allowed for a little movement.

 

[90WT]

Hinge bushings are a good idea, but b4 you do anything to align the doors, you should pitch the SAE grade 5 bolts and get the proper hinge pins.

Absolutely. With the current bolt setup, the doors move around in the hinges. No good at all.

@90WT ...I recently installed @SMG stainless steel pins/copper bushings. Ill be happy to donate the pins/plastic bushings I removed. The pins are perfectly fine. I would recommend getting some bronze bushings as the plastic ones allowed for a little movement.

SS pins and Copper bushings sounds like a serious upgrade! Thanks for the offer on the pins! I'll send you a PM.

 

[iptman]

@SMG 's thread with his awesome SS pins.

Stainless Steel Windshield/Doors/Hood/Amby FJ40 Hinge Pins with Bronze Bushings.

Stainless Steel windshield hinge pins with oil impregnated bronze bushings. The pins are made from 304 Stainless Steel. 2 pin Windshield set with bushings , $70 shipped. 4 pin Door set with bushings , $140 shipped. Bronze Bushings are for sale too and will work with stock hinge pins. $3...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[90WT]

Pulled this stinky thing off. Not really bad but it was gunked up. Secondary butterfly had a ring of crud around it and many of the internal ports were restricted. Accelerator pump was warn, and the boot was cracked. Replaced everything I could with the rebuild kit. Tool marks on the inside of the carb indicate it has been apart a few times before. Re-installed and it's working much better now except for the choke plate is still a little reluctant to close all the way. The engine starts up well enough and idles, although still a bit rough.

As it is with old cars, fixing one thing most certainly means finding something else broken or needing attention. After hooking up a vacation gauge, I now see only 7-8 inches of vacuum which is not good. And it looks like the PO set up the initial timing for about 11 degrees.

So far we have:
-changed out all the vacuum lines.
-drained the old gas
-rebuilt carb, float level looks good
-replaced cracked fuel lines.
-check idle solenoid. clicks when keyed up.
-new spark plugs
-check compression, about 110 +/- 10 psi, cold

So far we haven't:
-replaced intake/exhaust manifold gasket
-checked PCV valve for leak
-adjusted valves
-checked points gap

I know it has a leak around an exhaust port in manifold gasket. You can hear it and see black around it. So we'll do the intake/exhaust gasket next in hopes our vacuum leak is there, along with checking the PCV valve. I don't have a good track record with exhaust manifold bolts so I'm not really excited about this job.

For those of you still running the stock engine and carb at higher elevation, are you keeping with the stock jetting? The jets in the carb were 80/120, and/or 80/100 as I recall. (And I'm not gonna get the exact jet part name right. Sorry). There are long ones screwed from the top, and short ones at the bottom of the float bowl. Anyway, the jets already in the carb were the same numbers as what was in my rebuild kit. Bozeman is at an elevation of around 4500 ft. Seems like the jetting should be a little smaller? Should I order up some jets while I wait for my gasket in the mail?

 

[90WT]

@SMG PM sent for some bushings.

 

[REZARF]

When you:

-adjusted valves
-checked points gap

This is gonna' give you a good idea of that little 1F can do. These two steps, plus a well adjusted carb, and correct timing will make a huge difference in how the 40 runs.

You are making huge progress man.

 

[90WT]

Chasing my vacuum leak, I removed the intake/exhaust manifold and replaced the gasket with a fat Remflex one.
Found the easy-to-spot exhaust leak. And was pleasantly surprised I was able to get that sucker off without breaking any bolts (Kroil for the win).
Always satisfying to clean off the mating surfaces in preparation for a new gasket.

Also checked the PCV valve, and it's working correctly.
Finished up late, so I wasn't able to start it up and check to see if any difference yet.