It was the Prospector's Idea (1 Viewer)

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Bozeman, MT
If it was around that range I think you did pretty good. Do you plan to have it road trip worthy in time for a 406 Cruisers trip to St. Anthony this year? (assuming travel is okay and all the other stuff) I'm hoping to get my 40 out a few times this year for some of the more mild events.
 
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Bozeman, MT
If it was around that range I think you did pretty good. Do you plan to have it road trip worthy in time for a 406 Cruisers trip to St. Anthony this year? (assuming travel is okay and all the other stuff) I'm hoping to get my 40 out a few times this year for some of the more mild events.
That's a good question. I guess I hadn't thought that far. We definitely want to get out and play in the 40, but I have that carb/tuning project on the other rig I'm trying to sort out too. Parts have finally arrived for that, so time will be split between the two rigs for a while. I'll most likely take the Hundy to play in the sand. Didn't @REZARF mention something about organizing a 40s only run?
 
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Clean up went pretty good this weekend. The Prospector could hardly wait to tear out the carpet. Found a few unspent cartridges, lots of seeds, and the mouse that was storing them. He was dead. Must’ve been some bad seeds.

The floor pans look good. Saw lots of holes missing bolts though. Gonna need a lot of fasteners.
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Looked over the engine a bit more closely. Seems in order except for the carb still not quite right and we've got a substantial oil leak. We replaced all the vacuum lines, and now it will idle without the choke. But any slight increase in throttle makes it die. For the oil leak, looks like timing cover. How much of a pain is the timing cover gasket? Anything out of the ordinary for that?

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rkymtnflyfisher

Big Government Sucks
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That timing cover gasket is a cinch, hardest part will be cleaning the old one off. Torque on those screws are low, keep that in mind.

There's some good info in a thread about the oil pan gasket in the FAQ.
 
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Oil leak= rust protection. I try to let everything leak a little.

Old unspent cartridges are worth quite a bit in todays culture = Cruiser parts.

Looking good man, I'll come by sometime and give it a once over with you if it'd be helpful? Sell, the bullet and send the carb to Jim C. you can thank me profusely in the future. Why do you want to pull the timing chain cover? Is that where your leak is at?

Really solid start man. My cruiser has a ton of holes that never had bolts in them. Some are for hardtop models, but there are several threaded holes and captured nuts on mine that are still factory painted inside. I am the second owner of my 40 too... so it's pretty factory correct all things considered.
 
Joined
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Oil leak= rust protection. I try to let everything leak a little.

Old unspent cartridges are worth quite a bit in todays culture = Cruiser parts.

Looking good man, I'll come by sometime and give it a once over with you if it'd be helpful? Sell, the bullet and send the carb to Jim C. you can thank me profusely in the future. Why do you want to pull the timing chain cover? Is that where your leak is at?

Really solid start man. My cruiser has a ton of holes that never had bolts in them. Some are for hardtop models, but there are several threaded holes and captured nuts on mine that are still factory painted inside. I am the second owner of my 40 too... so it's pretty factory correct all things considered.
I agree about oil being a rust protection measure. I used to clean all that off. Now I embrace it.

Unfortunately I've got to address this oil leak though. My brief pre-purchase inspection in the PO's garage showed a (un)healthy amount of kitty liter under the engine. I figured I'd be into it a seal at some point. We drove it about a 100 yards before purchase, just checking all the gears, 4WD etc. Maybe a total run time of about 20 minutes. When I got it home, prior to driving it off the trailer, i noticed quite a bit of oil on the trailer deck. I checked the oil and it was almost 2 quarts low. :oops:
This week, I pulled the rig into the garage, from the street. About 12 hours later I had an 8-10 inch diameter oil puddle underneath it. The majority looks like it's coming from the timing cover gasket. Fresh oil on the front and bottom of the oil pan, but not the top or sides. And the tranny and transfer case looks like it has been thoroughly sprayed down with 10W30 from being trailered at 60 mph.

I may take a stab at the carb first before I send it out. I'm not an expert, but might as well open it up. Funny story. I remember my first carb rebuild about years 20+ years ago. Surgery took place at the dinning room table. My roommate came home to an apartment that reaked of gas and carb cleaner. 😆 Gas is one smell I guess I don't mind. When I was a kid, my Dad would sit me down with a huge Foldgers coffee can with an inch or two gas in the bottom, a wire brush, and something greasy to clean up keep me busy. :hillbilly:. (Jim C and Mark seem to be the Master's though in case I can't get it right).

As for bolts, I guess I'll focus a little harder on which ones need to be re-installed. The rig has been repainted, so not quite sure which ones need bolts, unless its rusty...

Would be great to have you stop by and learn me some FJ40 knowledge!
 
Joined
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Yeah, you gotta stop the flow on that leak. I'll hit you up and come heckle you. :beer:

The carb is easy enough, we just have a few masters that rebuild them, tune them on a live motor and jet for your specific requirements of altitude/emissions etc. Cruiser hero's. It'll be good for the prospector to learn.
 
Joined
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Bozeman, MT
The Prospector and I got some work done over the weekend. And as usual when wrenching on old cars, we found a few surprises along the way.

Chasing our oil leak, we went after the timing cover first. Everything took a little longer than expected. But since this is our first 40, we had a little learning curver figuring out what needed to come off and what didn't. We opted to remove the radiator, but leave the grill bolted in place. I'm guessing you can actually swing the grill down for some more room? We tackle rusty bolts only if backed into a corner. I hate rusty bolts.

Draining the oil should be no surprises right? I bet the oil pan plug was in there about 70-80 ft lbs. What the hell? When I removed the plug I saw why they reefed it down so much. Threads all busted out. (Surprise!) Glad I got a new drain plug and washer on hand.

Our method of spinning off the harmonic balancer nut used a socket extension shoved up in the flywheel. Held the socket extension, wedged against the bellhousing, with a ratchet strap. Easy. Got the big ol' breaker bar ratchet handle and my new 46 mm socket. Gritted my teeth and hoped to get that big nut off and...that thing darn near fell off by itself. It was probably torqued down to 15-20 ft-lb! (Surprise!)

Now looking at the the Timing cover I notice it was missing two bolts. (Surprise!) The rest were all 8mm long except for the two big ones. Spent an hour at our local ACE hardware stocking up on metric bolts. They are obnoxiously shiny when compared to the others. We replaced the timing cover front main seal too. It was dry and not pliable.

Install luckily had no surprises. FIPG and new bolts for the win. Appreciate MUD members posting up torque specs and FSM pages. An excellent resource.

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Joined
Sep 11, 2017
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Bozeman, MT
looks like the hose is already rubbing the diff.
hope there is enough clearance when the axle moves
that doesn't look like a hose barb fitting, looks like an air chuck type fitting
Good eyes! I totally missed that air chuck fitting. PO installed that bit.
Is there a bracket or something that is meant to keep the heater hose off the diff? Seems like it's out there exposed.
I might have to rethink this.
 

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