Builds It was the Prospector's Idea (10 Viewers)

[90WT]

Central Heating

Been putzing over the Holidays tackling a few different projects at once while it's in the garage. Got this rear heater a long while back from @87BJ74. I pressure tested with an old bike tire tube and then installed the heater. Removed both original heater switches and cleaned them up. I was stoked to see the original rear heater wire and plug tucked up under the dash. Only had high speed for the front heater. Now both switches work in both speeds. I wired up to the original two position switch, even though the heater appears to only have one speed. Needed a reducer from 5/8" hose to 1/2" hose. This factory heater works better and is much quieter than the aftermarket cube heater I had in there previously.

 

[90WT]

Keep it tight.

Worn out door strikers no more. Permantex Cold Weld for the win.

Even after the new door seals last year, still had gaps around the rear of the door since these worn out striker plates couldn't be adjusted inward enough. Solved that problem. At least for now. With a heater upgrade and sealed doors, I should be warmer this winter. Ha! Who am I kidding?

 

[90WT]

Connected a wire. Now this thing works. #littlethingsthatmakemehappy.

 

[90WT]

Maximum Crankage

The Prospector changed his first starter. Whatever came out was a lot bigger and slower than the new Mr. T version, 28100-60090-84.

Deleted the in-line coolant heater while we were in there. Nothing really left on our to-do list for Cruise Moab except for maybe a coffee mug holder.

 

[90WT]

Un.be.leaf.able.

Developed a popping sound with associated vibration recently. Well, at least I didn't notice it this winter. With the rig in the driveway, engine off, turning steering wheel back and forth helped us isolate the issue to the steering components. When turning to the left, fairly immediately we'd get one or two pops with associated vibration, then no more popping if you keep turning left. Turn right, fairly immediately, same couple of pops and vibration, then no popping if you keep turning right. We jacked up the front axle to get the wheels off the ground and could not replicate the noise/vibration. With the front wheels back on the ground, the Prospector spent some time turning the steering wheel back and forth to get the noise/vibration with me under the rig feeling, listening, looking. The vibration part could be felt in the steering linkages, center arm, tie-rod ends, but also the steering wheel and even the floor boards. Seemed weird as hell to me. We checked for loose nuts/bolts, greased all the steering components. Issue still unresolved. I hopped on MUD and found a thread in the 60s section with similar description. Mentioned the springs and shackles. ? So back outside we went. As you've probably guessed by now, we were hearing/feeling the two longest leaf springs shifting in the pack on both driver and passenger springs. And that was the source of the pop and associated vibration. I put the new OME springs on a few years ago. Guessing they finally got some grit or rust between the two longest springs. That's a new one for me. I sprayed Kroil everywhere.

 

[pigmony]

Do the OME springs have anti-friction pads between the leaves? Have those worn through or gone missing? Are the u-bolts still good and tight?

 

[pb4ugo]

You can probably tighten the U bolts. It's not uncommon for them to loosen up after suspension work.

 

[90WT]

The OME springs have pads between the leafs (leaves?), except for the two longest leafs. The pads are all looking good. Bushings are greased and good.

Good point about the U-bolts. I should check them again as it's been about 6 months or so. I did check all the spring pins/bolts and they were good.

 

[90WT]

Go play outside.

A few shots from Cruise Moab's first annual 40s Only Run. 24 rigs. 47 people. We wandered out on 3D and came back via Long Canyon. Great bunch of folks to run around the Utah desert with. So grateful to enjoy it with the Prospector.

 

[90WT]

Damage report

Our Cruise Moab trip did generate a short repair list. The Top of the World trail is much more dug out this year on the second waterfall and upper steps. There is a new bypass on the upper waterfall, but we decided to give it a try. Cost us a hubcap and a few clips. The Prospector was not happy. While bouncing around I think we may have hit the exhaust pipe, which in turn maybe tweaked the intake/exhaust manifold. Symptoms include a louder exhaust and leaner AFR gage readings. Vacuum gage says we're down a few inches of Hg. And just like last year, I broke a tail light lens on the way down. Same passenger side too! Darn big steps to look out for.

We'll change out the intake/exhaust gasket and exhaust pipe gasket and see where we land.

Still worth the trip to the top.

 

[90WT]

Got an OE style gasket instead of the Remflex this time. Vacuum is back to normal. Gotta say that shipping from @cruiseroutfit is top notch. Whoever packaged this gasket knew that it couldn't be bent. Arrived in a perfectly flat condition.

 

[90WT]

Bennie and the Jets

Went through and cleaned the carb again. Wasn't running 100% after our trip to Moab.

Found a little sediment in the bowl. Torn accelerator pump boot. Float adjusted too high. Otherwise looked ok. Sprayed carb cleaner in all the little passageways.

I took the time to change some jets I've been meaning to experiment with.
Current set up:
Primary jet is 120, primary slow jet is 50.
Secondary jet is 200, secondary slow jet is 50.
Power jet is 80.

My AFR gage readings show the primary is in the 13s for steady part throttle. I might go back to 117.5 jet where I saw high 13s/low 14s before. Secondary part throttle is in the 12s, so I will swap out to 190. Power jet is better at 80 (rather than 90), but AFR still in 10s at WOT. I will dial in the secondary jet before changing the power jet.

Everything is running smooth now, Not sure what I knocked loose but I'll take it. Throttle response felt snappier but I think that is mostly a result from a leaner power jet (that still needs leaned out).

 

[mattressking]

Central Heating

Been putzing over the Holidays tackling a few different projects at once while it's in the garage. Got this rear heater a long while back from @87BJ74. I pressure tested with an old bike tire tube and then installed the heater. Removed both original heater switches and cleaned them up. I was stoked to see the original rear heater wire and plug tucked up under the dash. Only had high speed for the front heater. Now both switches work in both speeds. I wired up to the original two position switch, even though the heater appears to only have one speed. Needed a reducer from 5/8" hose to 1/2" hose. This factory heater works better and is much quieter than the aftermarket cube heater I had in there previously.

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Every day I feel as though I find or learn a new/great way to use old tire tubes.

 

[90WT]

Wanted: Valve cover stud

Looking for a valve cover stud for an F engine for my brother. He had one stud snap while removing the valve cover which hadn't been off in decades.