Is anybody still interested in a center console? (8 Viewers)

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Delta VS said:
we have them in stock, whether they make it across the country in a week with this weather/shipping climate is another story...
Click to expand...

Just placed an order. Anything you can do to bump them out the door fast would be awesome.

Fly back to Aus Saturday week. Touch wood, they catch me, or they'll be lonely in NC for a while :frown:
 
mudgudgeon said:
Just placed an order. Anything you can do to bump them out the door fast would be awesome.

Fly back to Aus Saturday week. Touch wood, they catch me, or they'll be lonely in NC for a while :frown:
Click to expand...
Yup, thank you, will be going out today.
 
Delta VS said:
You never know what you'll add later. Setting up a dual zone fuse panel inside so you can have "always on" direct to battery circuits and "ignition on" circuits is super helpful. Building it like the attached pics makes it so you can easily disconnect it in the future (need to change carpet or add sound deadening, no problems), both the main powers in and out, ground, and all the circuit wires.


Finished product, installed and all 12 circuits wired up, but only a few in use. Power comes into the center console to the fuse panel, then continues back out the console to the rear QPM.

View attachment 2841436

These are the connectors for power and ground in and out of the console. Having to fish wires through when removing the console for doing things like carpet or whatever is a HUGE pain. A little extra work up front makes it a pleasure to remove it (and keeps the annoyance of removing it from putting a needed job off for another day).

View attachment 2841435

This is where all 12 circuit wires come out of the console to a single connector, same as the power and ground. Just need to unplug this and the red and grey connectors and you can lift console out. Very handy.

View attachment 2841433

Excuse the mid-job-mess, but you can see what plugs into the connector in previous pic here. This is just a bundle of long wires that will go anywhere in the vehicle and are ready to add any accessory. Since each wire is a different color (and there are 3 different wire gages for different needs), you just pull appropriate wire to new accessory, then add a fuse to that circuit on the fuse panel and you're done.

View attachment 2841434
Click to expand...

i've spent some more time planning this out and have some questions i hope you can answer based on experience

1) the Blue Sea panel is rated for 100A and the relay you use is rated for 125A. what AWG wire do you prefer to run from the battery to the console? my napkin calculations show it can require 15' of wire. how about when factoring in an extension to the rear quarter panel like your pics show....what AWG do you run? the various wire gauge tables i've referenced aren't all in agreement here, or i'm reading them all wrong. my electronics classes were a long time ago!
2) does the Blue Sea 5032 limit you on the size battery cable and lug? i see it uses #10-32 studs so a 1/4" lug for any wire gauge should fit
3) is there a specific wire type you prefer? i have some very stiff battery cables but have also used much more flexible welding cable on prior projects
4) which side of the motor and which grommet do you use when coming off the drivers side battery? i was thinking about a passenger side grommet but that increases the length of cable needed...no dual batteries planned.

and i'm still undecided on whether a traditional fuse panel like this is the route to go vs. a solid-state panel like a Switch Pros. nearly all of my loads will be for unswitched items like 12v ports or items that have their own switch like a mobile radio. i saw a notional diagram you've posted showing both in use but my truck will never have nearly enough devices or relay driven lights to require that. mostly interested in your thoughts on this subject in 2022.
 
jht3 said:
i've spent some more time planning this out and have some questions i hope you can answer based on experience

1) the Blue Sea panel is rated for 100A and the relay you use is rated for 125A. what AWG wire do you prefer to run from the battery to the console? my napkin calculations show it can require 15' of wire. how about when factoring in an extension to the rear quarter panel like your pics show....what AWG do you run? the various wire gauge tables i've referenced aren't all in agreement here, or i'm reading them all wrong. my electronics classes were a long time ago!
2) does the Blue Sea 5032 limit you on the size battery cable and lug? i see it uses #10-32 studs so a 1/4" lug for any wire gauge should fit
3) is there a specific wire type you prefer? i have some very stiff battery cables but have also used much more flexible welding cable on prior projects
4) which side of the motor and which grommet do you use when coming off the drivers side battery? i was thinking about a passenger side grommet but that increases the length of cable needed...no dual batteries planned.

and i'm still undecided on whether a traditional fuse panel like this is the route to go vs. a solid-state panel like a Switch Pros. nearly all of my loads will be for unswitched items like 12v ports or items that have their own switch like a mobile radio. i saw a notional diagram you've posted showing both in use but my truck will never have nearly enough devices or relay driven lights to require that. mostly interested in your thoughts on this subject in 2022.
Click to expand...
I'm starting to go down this route and have enough DC background to be dangerous but work with -48 and not +12v so ultimately no matter what anyone tells you I would research and if any doubt upsize your cable. So many variable on what people want and no one size fits all you have to pull out the magic ball and look into the future of your goal and hope you plan accordingly LOL.

1) I see this table referenced a lot and should be a good guide but the table I use sizes up quite a bit but is more focused on overall voltage drop lower than this. Voltage drop is very important but I think the cable ampacity rating is more important. The power section here on mud is a good source.
1642203444259.png

2)100amp max input per manufacture, size it for that, you kind of answered your own question in question 1. Keep in mind not only the stud size to consider but also the space around the stud to fit the outside diameter of the lug. They don't seem to show any dimensions on this. There are also narrow tongue lugs to consider, I would just make sure its a ring and not a spade lug personally.
3) Consider anything that is hard to cut into and flexible with oil and corrosion in mind just in case. Welding cable is a good go to but I use KS-24194 jus because it checks all the boxes and its free to me. Flex is always easiest for you but if stranded and free and you can muscle it in that would do it for me.

Just my .02, take it for what it's worth:meh:
 
Little new development for the center console modifying folks.

2-part product:
A. a somewhat generic center console replacing "base" for folks who want to build their own accessories
B. a quick-attach mount for the Dometic CDF11

The CDF attaches to the mount via toggle clamps, super easy to pull out to put on pic-a-nic table or something.

The BASE provides a two level surface (two levels to keep the main surface as low as possible) for mounting whatever you want. The BASE will work with either OEM shifter console or our shifter console.

It has:

-6 rivnuts placed on a 6x6 pattern for easy designing of accessories to bolt to it.
-Space under to route cables.
-A removable rear plate to with knock-outs to mount cig lighter style power accessories.

Shot of the base here
20210521_123312.jpeg


CDF11 on mount with front add-on cubby so it meets up with the shifter console nicely.
20210521_124439.jpeg


20210521_124652.jpeg


Here you can see the toggle clamp on the back for ease of removal
20210521_124722.jpeg


This shows what would be left in the vehicle if you pull the CDF out for portable cold beverage pleasure.
20210521_131716.jpeg
 
Ok, what is this part called on the website.....I already have the console, but now decided we want to add this. Thnx

chrome_screenshot_1642989844109.png
 
calokie said:
When will Delta come out with a parking brake relocation kit, under the dash hand brake, pull out style???
Click to expand...
That's already available at the junkyard. 3rd gen FOrunna parts, I believe?

edit: see below, 1st gen tacoma is what you're looking for
 
Last edited:
calokie said:
what about the E-Brake cable?
1st gen taco ? 3rd
4runner?
Click to expand...
there are at least a few threads here in the 80 section about it, from what I recall. quick search should net those answers.
 
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