Napa part number for longer studs
#641-2196
#641-2196
in depth rear disc brake conversion (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter camcruiser13
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
excellent
this is good for reference purposes for all who read
this is good for reference purposes for all who read
1990 CHEVROLET K1500 PICKUP 5.0L 305cid V8 TBI
I did this same conversion and used a master cylinder from rockauto.com
I found it listed under 1993 landcruiser.
It is a non abs Centric brand part number 13044720
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- Thread starter
- #66
perfect, keep the part numbers coming,
this will be the one stop, conversion thread. no need to search through 20 or so like i did
this will be the one stop, conversion thread. no need to search through 20 or so like i did
aggiecruiser
SILVER Star
Thanks for all the pics. Nice job documenting the whole procedure.
Please correct me if I am wrong, but I was under the impression that the little plastic piece in there was a 10lb residual valve and not a proportioning valve.
- Thread starter
- #68
thanks
yes it is a residual, and you definitley dont need 10 lbs tot he calipers. so if its there when you do it take it out.
you add a proportioning valve
yes it is a residual, and you definitley dont need 10 lbs tot he calipers. so if its there when you do it take it out.
you add a proportioning valve
There have been comments in threads about using the residual valve, or not...The last picture shows one, but it's not your rig. You have one listed on your parts, but did you install it? Just curious to see if the money for the valve is worth it...
- Thread starter
- #70
Yes I bought one thinking I needed it but never installed it. Just got part crazy when I was buying stuff
Cam, I'm in utah want to hang out on a weekend and help a brother out? Where a bouts are you? I'm in pleasant grove. I have a 1965 so I think I'm going to need a different brake master cylinder/booster as well. I went out to start it up and saw I had brake fluid down the drivers floor board on the inside. I believe a rubber boot has decided to die this year. Anyway instead of repairing the old it looks like this is the way to go. How does early springtime sound?
If you are contemplating doing rear discs, don't waste any more time... Do it.
I converted the rear to discs about twelve years ago, and they're still awesome. They'll stop my 4600 lb 40 with a heavy trailer behind it no worries. Wet, dry, hot, cold doesn't matter... They work.
I used front rotors and calipers from a 77 Chevy Blazer mounted to the rear of the FF rear Hubs. I used longer studs from a 96? Toyota Landcruiser (from Toyota). Residual valves removed. Willwood proportioning valve. Custom mounting plates modeled after the original Chevy stamped steel mounting plates.
Thanks for the detailed writeup Cam.
I converted the rear to discs about twelve years ago, and they're still awesome. They'll stop my 4600 lb 40 with a heavy trailer behind it no worries. Wet, dry, hot, cold doesn't matter... They work.
I used front rotors and calipers from a 77 Chevy Blazer mounted to the rear of the FF rear Hubs. I used longer studs from a 96? Toyota Landcruiser (from Toyota). Residual valves removed. Willwood proportioning valve. Custom mounting plates modeled after the original Chevy stamped steel mounting plates.
Thanks for the detailed writeup Cam.
I'm interested what wheel studs you used.. I have Hilux rotors behind my FF flange and front studs, but the stud shoulder is too high.. I used thin spacers to stop the wheel nuts bottoming out.. Maybe the Blazer rotors mounting flange is thicker and bottoming out is not a problem..
- Thread starter
- #74
why wouldnt i,
just let me know a time date and place. ill even drive the cruza over
Hi Cam,
Its been a long time since I have talked to you! Did this conversion on 2 of my cruisers since reading your original post. I used a M/C from a 1992 Celica Supra and a proportioning valve from Willwood. Works awesome, could not be happier with this mod.
Its been a long time since I have talked to you! Did this conversion on 2 of my cruisers since reading your original post. I used a M/C from a 1992 Celica Supra and a proportioning valve from Willwood. Works awesome, could not be happier with this mod.
I don't have a part number for the studs. Back in 97 or 98, when I was doing the conversion, I bought them off the shelf at the Toyota Dealership. They said they were from a Newer Landcruiser. I am also running 1/4" spacers to ensure the nuts don't bottom out and to make up for some of the thickness of the removed 45 drums.
I don't know that the nuts would bottom out, but they would be close, and I didn't want to take any chances. One nice thing about the Blazer rotors is that they didn't require any modifications to fit. There was a very small casting radius on the back of the FF hub that needed to be squared out a bit, but everything now works with off the shelf parts. The cost for rebuilt calipers was $17 a side if you've got a core because they were used from 75-84 on most Chevy trucks, Blazers, Suburbans, and who knows what else.
Cam, Been reading, and rereading...Where does the line run out of the proportioning valve? Did you run a new line to the back axle, or did you connect to the existing line? Excuse my ignorance if I missed it in this post, but I am curious...
- Thread starter
- #78
not at all, simple and sweet i but flared the old one and put the right thread to the valve. ,
im all for, less complicated the better
Can you pic that for me? I'm a visual kind of guy. Hate to be a PITA...
- Thread starter
- #80
Yeah I'll grab a few no biggie
