- Thread starter
- #61
Posted over at ls1tech.com about the output carrier. We'll see if they have any other opinions.
4l80e output carrier chipped - LS1TECH
4l80e output carrier chipped - LS1TECH
Impending Vortec Swap (1 Viewer)
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- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Got the tranny back together. I ended up skipping a bunch of the bushings, but everything has new lip seals, clutches and steels. Hopefully the thing works. I went by the book and put it all back together following every word. So....fingers crossed.
Looking back...
One advantage to having the freezer downstairs, my wife will never know....
reluctor ring installed
my trusty lip seal tool. I cut from a thin plastic sheet I had.
mark's adapter installed, original extension housing on the left
"money shot" of mark's adapter, original extension housing to left.
I think I'll work on the GM harness next. trying to minimize downtime of the truck....
Looking back...
- I would just order the couple of seals and gaskets that aren't reuseable. If I saw something that needed to be replaced, I would order it up and wait on it. I imagine with reluctor ring, that would make the cost about $60-$70 bucks.
- Just tearing down, slipping on the reluctor ring and putting together I could probably do in a friday afternoon now. So, a 4-5 hour job.
- 4th clutch lip seals weren't nearly as bad as I thought. It took me about 15 mins of tinkering, but it went together with very little problem. That's after my book said it was nearly impossible without the $300 tool...
- Direct clutch piston was the 2nd hardest part. I had to sleep on it, but now that I have the feel for it, it would be much easier.
- reverse brake band that came in my kit was small, and keep falling down when trying to put in the output assembly. I spent half a day trying to make the stupid band work. And that assembly is heavy to pick up by the 1.5" nubbin. I eventually went back to the band that came in the tranny and looked like it was in great shape. Once I did that, I had the whole tranny up to the pump put together in about 45 mins.
One advantage to having the freezer downstairs, my wife will never know....
reluctor ring installed
my trusty lip seal tool. I cut from a thin plastic sheet I had.
mark's adapter installed, original extension housing on the left
"money shot" of mark's adapter, original extension housing to left.
I think I'll work on the GM harness next. trying to minimize downtime of the truck....
Have you made any more progress over the last week?
I got my adaptor order placed from marks4wd... Wonder how long that will take?
Ordered my 2wd output shaft... Should be here on the 13th
Started labeling the 80 harness and partial removal of engine components...
I got my adaptor order placed from marks4wd... Wonder how long that will take?
Ordered my 2wd output shaft... Should be here on the 13th
Started labeling the 80 harness and partial removal of engine components...
- Thread starter
- #64
Yes, I got the GM harness completely stripped down and started pulling wires. I'm still looking for an ih1 and ih2 pinout sheet. I've asked around, but I can't seem to find it. So, I'm building my own, it's just that it takes some time from the EWD. If someone has it and could send to me, I would be VERY appreciative of it!
I also had too much crap on my work benches in the garage, so I've been working to clear some of the half started projects out of the garage. One being my OBA system, which I got the compressor switched up and pressured up to test, but then I stupidly don't have a way to bleed off the pressure, so I can't weld my tank up. I need to get power to a diff locker relay to relieve the pressure so I don't take a fitting to the nuts (which would be my luck). Hopefully, I have that finished this afternoon. I also picked up a used slee front bumper last night!
I also had too much crap on my work benches in the garage, so I've been working to clear some of the half started projects out of the garage. One being my OBA system, which I got the compressor switched up and pressured up to test, but then I stupidly don't have a way to bleed off the pressure, so I can't weld my tank up. I need to get power to a diff locker relay to relieve the pressure so I don't take a fitting to the nuts (which would be my luck). Hopefully, I have that finished this afternoon. I also picked up a used slee front bumper last night!
- Thread starter
- #66
'97 lx450
Damn I have one for my 91 but was told they changed for OBDII and were slightly different for the LX
Hell I know the feeling, I forgot to get AC drained before I got it in the garage and now I have to figure out how to safely drain and not get covered in green goop...
Hell I know the feeling, I forgot to get AC drained before I got it in the garage and now I have to figure out how to safely drain and not get covered in green goop...
I have a pinout for connectors from my 97LX I did last fall. It has a bunch of other stuff on it as well. Send me a PM and I'll get it over to you.Yes, I got the GM harness completely stripped down and started pulling wires. I'm still looking for an ih1 and ih2 pinout sheet. I've asked around, but I can't seem to find it. So, I'm building my own, it's just that it takes some time from the EWD. If someone has it and could send to me, I would be VERY appreciative of it!
I also had too much crap on my work benches in the garage, so I've been working to clear some of the half started projects out of the garage. One being my OBA system, which I got the compressor switched up and pressured up to test, but then I stupidly don't have a way to bleed off the pressure, so I can't weld my tank up. I need to get power to a diff locker relay to relieve the pressure so I don't take a fitting to the nuts (which would be my luck). Hopefully, I have that finished this afternoon. I also picked up a used slee front bumper last night!
- Thread starter
- #69
Moving slowly, traveling for work this week. But, last weekend got a few things done. Stripped the harness of tape, and did the de pin at the PCM connections. I still need to pull out the wires I am deleting, but I wanted to see if anyone had any feedback before I totally pull them out. Heavy lifting provided by lt1swap.com. I need my vehicle to pass Colorado emissions, so I need to leave all emissions equipment....
Deleted
C1 Blue Connector
Pin 07 - Gray - 5 volt reference for oil pressure
Pin 13 - tOrg/Blk - Requested torque signal
Pin 23 - Blk - Low reference to C2
Pin 30 - LGrn - Coolant level switch signal
Pin 38 - Pnk/Wht - damping lift/drive signal
Pin 39 - Ylw/Blk - Starter enable relay control
Pin 45 - Gry - 5 volt reference (A/C)
Pin 46 - Gry - 5 volt reference (EVA) **I think I need this for emissions?? I assume evap for emissions?
Pin 59 - Ylw - Class 2 serial data
Pin 63 - blk - Low reference (oil pressure sensor)
pin 70 - brn - oil level switch signal
C2 Green Connector
Pin 03 - tan - fuel pump relay control - secondary (for dual tanks)
Pin 05 - tan/blk - delivered torque signal
Pin 14 - red/blk - A/C refrigerant pressure sensor signal
Pin 18 - DGrn - Clutch Start Switch Signal
Pin 19 - Blk/Wht - Axle Switch Signal
Pin 43 - DGrn/Wht - A/C compressor clutch relay
Pin 54 - Purp - fuel level sensor signal
Pin 58 - Tan/Wht - Oil Pressure Sensor signal
Pin 59 - Purp - Crank voltage
Pin 64 - Dk Grn - Fuel tank Pressure Sensor Signal **I don't think this is required for emissions since it wasn't on the original vehicle? I'll leave in place in case I need it
Pin 73 - DBlu - Secondary fuel level sensor
Pin 80 - Blk - A/C low reference
Depinned for integration into the Toyota system
C1 Blue Connector
Pin 19 - Pnk - Ignition 1 Voltage
Pin 20 - Org - Battery Positive Voltage
Pin 33 - Purp - TCC brake switch / Cruise Control
Pin 35 - Gry - CPP switch signal
Pin 57 - Org - Battery Positive
Pin 58 - DGrn - Class 2 serial Data
Pin 75 - Pnk - Off/Run/Crank Volts
C2 Green connector
Pin 9 - DGrn/Wht - Fuel Pump Relay Control
Pin 10 - Wht - Engine Speed Sensor
Pin 46 - Brn/Wht - MIL control
Pin 50 - DGrn/Wht - VSS
Deleted
C1 Blue Connector
Pin 07 - Gray - 5 volt reference for oil pressure
Pin 13 - tOrg/Blk - Requested torque signal
Pin 23 - Blk - Low reference to C2
Pin 30 - LGrn - Coolant level switch signal
Pin 38 - Pnk/Wht - damping lift/drive signal
Pin 39 - Ylw/Blk - Starter enable relay control
Pin 45 - Gry - 5 volt reference (A/C)
Pin 46 - Gry - 5 volt reference (EVA) **I think I need this for emissions?? I assume evap for emissions?
Pin 59 - Ylw - Class 2 serial data
Pin 63 - blk - Low reference (oil pressure sensor)
pin 70 - brn - oil level switch signal
C2 Green Connector
Pin 03 - tan - fuel pump relay control - secondary (for dual tanks)
Pin 05 - tan/blk - delivered torque signal
Pin 14 - red/blk - A/C refrigerant pressure sensor signal
Pin 18 - DGrn - Clutch Start Switch Signal
Pin 19 - Blk/Wht - Axle Switch Signal
Pin 43 - DGrn/Wht - A/C compressor clutch relay
Pin 54 - Purp - fuel level sensor signal
Pin 58 - Tan/Wht - Oil Pressure Sensor signal
Pin 59 - Purp - Crank voltage
Pin 64 - Dk Grn - Fuel tank Pressure Sensor Signal **I don't think this is required for emissions since it wasn't on the original vehicle? I'll leave in place in case I need it
Pin 73 - DBlu - Secondary fuel level sensor
Pin 80 - Blk - A/C low reference
Depinned for integration into the Toyota system
C1 Blue Connector
Pin 19 - Pnk - Ignition 1 Voltage
Pin 20 - Org - Battery Positive Voltage
Pin 33 - Purp - TCC brake switch / Cruise Control
Pin 35 - Gry - CPP switch signal
Pin 57 - Org - Battery Positive
Pin 58 - DGrn - Class 2 serial Data
Pin 75 - Pnk - Off/Run/Crank Volts
C2 Green connector
Pin 9 - DGrn/Wht - Fuel Pump Relay Control
Pin 10 - Wht - Engine Speed Sensor
Pin 46 - Brn/Wht - MIL control
Pin 50 - DGrn/Wht - VSS
How are things coming on your swap?
- Thread starter
- #71
Been slow. My wife has a parasite and she is insisting I do things around the house to get us ready to house the parasite. Along with the lack of a shop and the snow, motivation to get out there has been low. More snow and rain this weekend....
Been kinda of watching another forum member's swap. He should be dropping in his motor tomorrow and I'm going to check out a different header option. The summit center dumps are a no go, at least with the AA motor mounts. I thought the summit's were the same as the hooker center dumps, but it seems they aren't. Another forum member locally got his hooker center dumps to work, but he ran dirty dingo mounts. So, I don't know if it is a mount issue or the summit headers are different. But, the swap I'm watching more closely we're trying some block huggers that more resemble stock (non center dump).
So...not a lot of traction. I'll be off for a couple weeks when we have the baby, and I plan to hopefully be in wiring hell then. That's 3-4 weeks from now...
Been kinda of watching another forum member's swap. He should be dropping in his motor tomorrow and I'm going to check out a different header option. The summit center dumps are a no go, at least with the AA motor mounts. I thought the summit's were the same as the hooker center dumps, but it seems they aren't. Another forum member locally got his hooker center dumps to work, but he ran dirty dingo mounts. So, I don't know if it is a mount issue or the summit headers are different. But, the swap I'm watching more closely we're trying some block huggers that more resemble stock (non center dump).
So...not a lot of traction. I'll be off for a couple weeks when we have the baby, and I plan to hopefully be in wiring hell then. That's 3-4 weeks from now...
Can you link the one your watching?
- Thread starter
- #73
he doesn't have a thread going.
I'm planning on using the hooker center dumps myself, and making my own motor mounts out of 8mm plate and some DOM tubing that has the same ID as the OD of a set of leaf spring bushings I had left over from my minitruck crawler build I did a few years back... With a little help from my friend Miller the welding machine, custom motor mounts will be had... Although I just got all the wiring harness off my old 3FE now I'm read to strip my donor vehicle of its wiring and motor so I can get it the heck out of my gargle nd have the room to breathe/work...
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- Sep 9, 2004
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- Website
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watching your build....
you will not be disappointed. I had a 80 with a 5.7L vortec and 4L60e and it was a great truck. I also had a 60 with a ramjet and loved it. I also have a 2001 2500HD with the LQ4 & 4L80e that I bought it new. 225k on it now and it is has been a great engine-trans, hardly any issues since new. Towed a lot with it. The 4L60e is much tighter pan to front driveshaft, so much so that you can't run a d/c front shaft. While I do believe this is a non-issue with the 4L80e. At least this is the deal with the FJ60 split case. You can put a shift kit in that trans and it should not be so sluggish in 1st and also perform much better than stock when combined with a tune. And speaking of tune, it is everything on these engines. If you don't know a good tuner in your area I know a great one in Boise, lifetime tune cost ya $300 iirc and they really know their stuff, they do a lot of Ultra4 cars. From my experience no swap is complete without a tune.
Check out the Cadillac CTS-V stock exhaust manifolds. I hear they are the best for swaps and getting the dump in the right spot plus you can find them fairly cheap 2nd hand.
I rolled my v8 80 last summer and am now building an FJ62-80 combo but plan to run a 6L or 6.2L and the 6L80e.
Cheers
you will not be disappointed. I had a 80 with a 5.7L vortec and 4L60e and it was a great truck. I also had a 60 with a ramjet and loved it. I also have a 2001 2500HD with the LQ4 & 4L80e that I bought it new. 225k on it now and it is has been a great engine-trans, hardly any issues since new. Towed a lot with it. The 4L60e is much tighter pan to front driveshaft, so much so that you can't run a d/c front shaft. While I do believe this is a non-issue with the 4L80e. At least this is the deal with the FJ60 split case. You can put a shift kit in that trans and it should not be so sluggish in 1st and also perform much better than stock when combined with a tune. And speaking of tune, it is everything on these engines. If you don't know a good tuner in your area I know a great one in Boise, lifetime tune cost ya $300 iirc and they really know their stuff, they do a lot of Ultra4 cars. From my experience no swap is complete without a tune.
Check out the Cadillac CTS-V stock exhaust manifolds. I hear they are the best for swaps and getting the dump in the right spot plus you can find them fairly cheap 2nd hand.
I rolled my v8 80 last summer and am now building an FJ62-80 combo but plan to run a 6L or 6.2L and the 6L80e.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #78
Well, it was supposed to be a rainy day and we are just hanging out waiting on the wife to start the "calving" process. Turned out to be a beautiful day and I hopped outside to spill some oil on the driveway. Got the radiator stripped. So while I've spent most the money, I'm officially committed to this. You think my neighbor who post-divorce still has a 5000 sq ft house, tennis court, pool and separate garage to house his porsche turbo is going to hate looking at my project every day? His DD is a 200 series, so I'm sure he "gets it...." 
Looking at getting a new rad, my current one is pretty torn up. And as powderpig noted when I was thinking about rebuilding my 1fzfe, green got mixed with red.
Looking at getting a new rad, my current one is pretty torn up. And as powderpig noted when I was thinking about rebuilding my 1fzfe, green got mixed with red.
Post divorce you are good to go with the neighbor. It is usually the neighbor who has been told by his wife that he needs to care about your project that has an issue. lol.
Subbed. After I finish my in-law suite in my basement and get my work tables built in my garage, this is my next project. I'll be retiring my '11 taco expo build to the teenage daughter and get to building the 80 that's been in my driveway for the last year. Thank you for all the links to continue my learning on the project before I start ordering parts.
I do have a couple of questions when you start fitting the engine. I'm assuming you are planning on leaving the transfer case in the stock location. I have not found a difinitive answer on the 6l80e bolting to the stock cross member or what modifications were needed. Moving the cross member would then require custom belly skids, and I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into. But I also don't know if the 4l6Xe/4l70e would make a difference as far as the cross member goes.
I do have a couple of questions when you start fitting the engine. I'm assuming you are planning on leaving the transfer case in the stock location. I have not found a difinitive answer on the 6l80e bolting to the stock cross member or what modifications were needed. Moving the cross member would then require custom belly skids, and I want to make sure I know what I'm getting into. But I also don't know if the 4l6Xe/4l70e would make a difference as far as the cross member goes.
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