I'm back with another big block, doubler, one ton build. (1 Viewer)

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60 box is just as easy.

Only reason I can see to run that box on the 60 is because he didn't know any better.
 
Or, the PO put in an 800 series Saginaw which is a hell of a lot stronger than a 60 box. One tons and big tires probably made him think to upgrade the steering "while he was in there."
 
How much stronger is a sag box over a 60 box then?
 
I thought of switching to a 60 box for ease of packaging when I was doing the 40, but the Saginaw I had just dwarfed the 60 box. I'm not sure of the exact diameters on the input and sector shafts, but the Saginaw parts were much larger.
 
mr jits said:
I thought of switching to a 60 box for ease of packaging when I was doing the 40, but the Saginaw I had just dwarfed the 60 box. I'm not sure of the exact diameters on the input and sector shafts, but the Saginaw parts were much larger.
Click to expand...

I can say that this box (yet to be determined) is quite a bit bigger than the 60 box. I happen to have both so when I have them both pulled I'll do a side by side comparison. Granted that "size" isnt the only factor in how strong something is... but usually is a good indication of the strength.
 
It's definitely not a conventional 800 series box. The guts may be the same, but mounting pattern is different.. I'd be curious to see the difference in sector shaft spline count and piston diameter.
 
Update on the electrical cord situation. :)....

Going the DYI route with SOOW 10/3 type of wire pencils out to about $2 a foot (or at Platt electric). Buying the Rigid pre-made cord pencils out at $1.40. I asked the dude at Home Depot why and he said that Rigid spits out so much cable that its actually cheaper to buy the pre-made cords rather than make your own. Go figure. Anyway, I got the parts I need for the dedicated 220v 50amp and some dedicated 20 and 30 amp 110v.
 
Are you going to transfer the body or are you switching the running gear? Is you frame straight? There is a lot of work allready done to the frame...
 
79021C65-D69E-4BFF-A62A-4B0EAE137273_zpsxsik0wwh.jpg


that box is likely out of an early 70s A-body GM. It doesn't have the extra rib like they put on the B-body (Impala/Cadillac), and it's too large for a Camaro box.... decent boxes, LOTS of aftermarket support.
 
wiring. Read this
http://www.wesbellwireandcable.com/SOOW/difference-between-soow-wire-and-type-w-power-cable.html

the issue with stranded wire is this - it's stranded to make it pliable, but since current travels around the outside of the copper core - it means that it won't be as robust if you get any kind of corrosion. A very basic wiring primer, I was in your shoes about 8 years ago - fortunately, my dad is really good at wiring, and one of my best friends is an electrician ... so I only made the size mistake (which wasn't a mistake, really) of using too large of wire (in my defense, I have plenty of service amps to cover the increased resistance, and it will be a lot longer before the resistance builds up into the wire... beyond my lifetime... resistance builds up over time, especially true in aluminum wire, and finally, the cost difference when I did this was less than $20 for the entire shop wiring).
but to your issue

current travels on the outside of the copper wire. as water flows in the inside of a pipe, current travels on the outside of a pipe. Thin stranded wire cannot carry as much current because it will overheat and melt. When they do stranded wire, they do so because they want the wire to be pliable, the downside is corrosion can severely limit the capability of the wire (because each corrosion removes a "pipe") do it long enough and it will overheat and melt. Solid wire, though it can't carry as much current (since there is less surface to carry the current), is more robust because it takes more corrosion to impede its current carrying ability. On top of that, at the worst case corrosion, the line will simply stop working until you cure the corrosion (rather than melting like stranded wire). Of course, the trade-off is it will break with vibration, and will work harden then break with continued flexing.

not all copper is created equal, where Rigid (chinese) saves money is by using a lower-grade copper. That means more resistance per foot and less capability to safely handle current.

anyway, I'm an amateur and I could write a book - but really, spend some time getting an idea of how to size a shop run. 120v and 220v shop wiring is pretty simple to run for people like you and I. Another way to move forward is to simply pay an electrician to look over your plans. On top of that, my electrical inspector was really really good at helping (which is kind of odd, since most inspectors are... well... worthless).
 
GW Nugget said:
Are you going to transfer the body or are you switching the running gear? Is you frame straight? There is a lot of work allready done to the frame...
Click to expand...

Everything is still in the air. After I get the body off the rolled one I'll be able to make a better guess. Right now it looks like I'm swapping the running gear.
 
Okay, that steering box sure looks like a Model "83" sag box from a 88 to 98 Chevy 1/2 ton truck. Or an "84" from a 3/4 to 1 ton truck (model years may be off, but it's in that range). Bolt mounting pattern is definitely not the standard H (or missing leg H) style mounting that the multiple variants of GM cars came with. It's the inverted "Y" mounting pattern.

Pirate for the win.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/570869-saginaw-box-rebuild-how.html

Hydro assist is already there and supposedly functional, If it does not screw with anything, I'd leave it. at least it's nice and safe.


BTW, the extension cord I use for my welder is a converted 50' 110V 10/3 Rigid extension cord with the 110V ends cut off and some 220 plug ends attached. It was way cheaper this way than using cut by the foot wire at home depot. Right or wrong, it works great for the Migmaster 250 I use and the MM185 I had.
 
Last edited:
Mace said:
Okay, that steering box sure looks like a Model "83" sag box from a 88 to 98 Chevy 1/2 ton truck. Or an "84" from a 3/4 to 1 ton truck (model years may be off, but it's in that range). Bolt mounting pattern is definitely not the standard H (or missing leg H) style mounting that the multiple variants of GM cars came with. It's the inverted "Y" mounting pattern.

Pirate for the win.
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/570869-saginaw-box-rebuild-how.html

Hydro assist is already there and supposedly functional, If it does not screw with anything, I'd leave it. at least it's nice and safe.


BTW, the extension cord I use for my welder is a converted 50' 110V 10/3 Rigid extension cord with the 110V ends cut off and some 220 plug ends attached. It was way cheaper this way than using cut by the foot wire at home depot. Right or wrong, it works great for the Migmaster 250 I use and the MM185 I had.
Click to expand...

Bingo, gracias.
 
They had to ream that PS TRE out to take the Draglink. If they did a good job on it, it'll be fine. If not, obviously there needs to be more work done.

I had my 40 setup that way for a while. Then I got tired of having a steering box and went full hydro.
 
I'm digging the hi-tops.
 
I've read that gov locs aren't that great and can grenade. Something you'll have plenty of potential with running a big block, a doubler, and 42's.
 
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