- Thread starter
- #521
Glad to hear - that's a good looking truck! I kinda want to buy some more SCS wheels and run two different sets cause I love how they look.
Builds Ikarus' LX470 Offroad Build and BS (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter ikarus
- Start date
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- Tags
- arb bumper lx470 offroad overland
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Ordered mine last week and they arrived in 3 days... SCS had Matte Gunmetal and Black available including the lugs.
Couple questions for you:
1) Any regrets on the Slinky system or other suspension components you’ve stuck with? My goal is to be able to take OHV roads at speed i.e. 40+mph. I do not intend to add heavy bumpers.
2) I have 285/75/16 Maxx’s and would love to get more thrust... do you think the 4.88s would be too low for me? Other than wheeling, we use the 100 for 75% around town and 25% hwy.
- Thread starter
- #523
No regrets on the Slinky setup. Very happy with it, and I want to upgrade to stage 4 at some point - would be ideal to be able to dial in the dampers for the right amount of weight/speed. For hitting trails at speed I'd recommend a full overhaul - shocks, torsion bars, springs, bushings, UCAs, extended sway bar links, extended brake lines and bumpstops (which I still need to do - next on the list.) But it's super fun, and especially when aired down a little, surprisingly smooth.
I will say, the Icon Stage 3 setup will probably get you very similar if not almost identical results. And you could also piece together a great setup with Slee shocks, radflo, king etc. But it's nice that the Slinky setup is a complete package, and the dual rate springs are super nice for both offroad and around town.
I think you would like the 4.88s. yeah it would be slightly low but if you're not living on the highway you might not notice that much. It feels good to get the acceleration and gearing closer to stock. Still no fast car, of course, but better around town and it feels like the engine/trans is working less to get up and go.
- Thread starter
- #524
My corner marker just fell out during a drive. Looks like the plastic clips broke - I'm going to have to buy a new set.
In the meantime, duct tape haha
And I finally washed it, actually looked kind of nice for a few days!
My ST Maxxs are wearing down and I think it's just about time for some new tires. I'm thinking Cooper STT Pro in 315/70r17, or maybe Toyo M/T.
How many miles would you expect out of the Maxx’s if you didn’t swap early? What’s your mix of driving been with them?
Hmmm, maybe it was the price of the headlight I was choking on, rather than the marker. Either way.
- Thread starter
- #529
I think 30 or 40K no problem. I'm at about 20K right now and they're doing fine, but I got some weird wear up front. I'm not sure what it was but I was rotating them every 5K, and I looked up front a few weeks ago and they'd worn down twice as fast as the rears. I don't think it's the tires, I think it had something to do with my alignment. Anyway, I moved those to the rear and had a little bit of trouble getting up some steep rocky hills the other day.
I drive about 2/3 town and 1/3 offroad. If I were just on the road I'd just leave them for another 10K - but for offroad use I think I'll swap in some mud tires pretty soon here.
I didn't have much luck finding the marker lights when I needed one, so I ended up with Depo housings. It's the headlight and marker light in one, and I'm actually pretty happy with them. Got them from @ranma21
Those look great. I have an LX though, so I wouldn't be able to use those. I'll message him about the stand alone clear lights though.
Perfect - was just going to look those up. Is that the land cruiser version? thanks man!
No, those are the LX parts. Fortunately/unfortunately I have a couple of invoices handy with the numbers.
- Thread starter
- #533
It became apparent that my LX had been wrecked on the passenger side the replacement was obviously not OEM so it had bad cracking and would take on moisture.
- Thread starter
- #536
Got P0100, P0110 and P0505 error codes today (CEL, VSC/ABS lights on)
I pulled the MAF and removed the airbox leading up to the throttle body.
I realized the TB hadn't been cleaned in a minute.
I really need to clean my engine bay but I never feel like doing it cause I'll just go off road and get it all dirty again. What do ya do
I do think it's time for a snorkel with a pre-cleaner - this is the inlet after the air filter on the way to the TB. It was full of dust:
Got it all put together and the codes are gone - hopefully I'm good! I could feel the 5hp increase that the MAF cleaner label promised me...
The next problem to tackle is that my ARB compressor won't stop cycling when I turn it on. I need to check for leaks but I'm wondering if it's the pressure switch. Has anyone else had that happen?
I pulled the MAF and removed the airbox leading up to the throttle body.
I realized the TB hadn't been cleaned in a minute.
I really need to clean my engine bay but I never feel like doing it cause I'll just go off road and get it all dirty again. What do ya do
I do think it's time for a snorkel with a pre-cleaner - this is the inlet after the air filter on the way to the TB. It was full of dust:
Got it all put together and the codes are gone - hopefully I'm good! I could feel the 5hp increase that the MAF cleaner label promised me...
The next problem to tackle is that my ARB compressor won't stop cycling when I turn it on. I need to check for leaks but I'm wondering if it's the pressure switch. Has anyone else had that happen?
- Thread starter
- #538
No, mine was oil-free luckily. Just dusty. And nice, I'm just down in SLC.
Definitely a leak somewhere--the pressure switch is doing its job if the compressor is cycling. That's not to say the leak couldn't be the pressure switch itself, but it is more likely one of the fittings somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #540
Good to know. I'll be checking all the fittings tomorrow.
