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How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row (9 Viewers)
- Thread starter mtnracer
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Though you're always welcome here too!https://forum.ih8mud.com/forums/200-series-cruisers.136/
Appreciate the write up Mtnracer. It helped me a lot.
I went with the Pyle PLPW6D 6-Inch 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer as a replacement. Wanted to attach a couple of pictures. I had to use a dremel to make more space on the box so the speaker would fit correctly.
I went with the Pyle PLPW6D 6-Inch 600 Watt Dual 4 Ohm Subwoofer as a replacement. Wanted to attach a couple of pictures. I had to use a dremel to make more space on the box so the speaker would fit correctly.
Does it sound better than the OEM speaker? Did u add an amp or keep the stock amp?
I kept the stock amp. I can't tell really, the past OEM speaker had the foam problem for quite too long that I don't remember how it used to sound. But the new one just sounds OK, it doesn't give that as much bass as I would've liked.
I did all speakers at the same time. Probably would omit doing the sub since I have so much crap in the back that absorbs the sound anyways.
As for the speakers - night and day improvement.
As for the speakers - night and day improvement.
What speakers did you go with?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I just pulled out the sub in my 04 lx470 and have the same Audiopipe and resistors ready to go but am not sure how specifically to wire them up. Would appreciate some detailed instructions.
Those pictures match the rough drawing someone put up in another thread...
Basic flow is there should be probably only be 2 wires hooked up to the stock sub even if there are 4 on the plug...if you have 4 wires in the enclosure then you should stop and re-evaluate.
1. Positive wire from amp goes to voice coil 1 positive(vc1+)
2. vc1- goes to vc2+ (this is wiring the voice coils in series)
3. Each side of resistor 1(r1) and resistor 2(r2) are hooked up together(they are wired in parallel) You can can think of it as r1+ and r2+ are hooked together and r1- and r2- are hooked together although resistors don't really have polarity, so it really doesn't matter. But the labeling makes it easier to keep track of. The two 20W 8 ohm resistors in parallel combine to act as one 40W 4 ohm resistor.
3. vc2- goes to the combined r1+r2+ (again we are wiring the combined resistor load in series)
4. r1-r2- is hooked to the negative wire from amp.
So we have 3 4 ohm loads(the two voice coils and the combined resistors) which in series will present a ~12 ohm load. Measured out as 11.7 in the picture.
I personally wouldn't hesitate at all to just leave out the resistors initially. This would present an 8 ohm load to the amp. Someone pointed out in another post that their subwoofer was labeled as 6ohms... I didn't do any measurements personally to confirm or deny anything when I pulled out my sub, but I would be quite surprised if the stock amp would have issues with hooking up an 8ohm sub to it. If it does, it will most likely be a high volumes and it will let you know by ceasing to emit sound temporarily. Granted I've only really ever abused aftermarket audio equipment, so there's always the chance it could fry it permanently, so don't let me talk you into something you aren't comfortable with...
Basic flow is there should be probably only be 2 wires hooked up to the stock sub even if there are 4 on the plug...if you have 4 wires in the enclosure then you should stop and re-evaluate.
1. Positive wire from amp goes to voice coil 1 positive(vc1+)
2. vc1- goes to vc2+ (this is wiring the voice coils in series)
3. Each side of resistor 1(r1) and resistor 2(r2) are hooked up together(they are wired in parallel) You can can think of it as r1+ and r2+ are hooked together and r1- and r2- are hooked together although resistors don't really have polarity, so it really doesn't matter. But the labeling makes it easier to keep track of. The two 20W 8 ohm resistors in parallel combine to act as one 40W 4 ohm resistor.
3. vc2- goes to the combined r1+r2+ (again we are wiring the combined resistor load in series)
4. r1-r2- is hooked to the negative wire from amp.
So we have 3 4 ohm loads(the two voice coils and the combined resistors) which in series will present a ~12 ohm load. Measured out as 11.7 in the picture.
I personally wouldn't hesitate at all to just leave out the resistors initially. This would present an 8 ohm load to the amp. Someone pointed out in another post that their subwoofer was labeled as 6ohms... I didn't do any measurements personally to confirm or deny anything when I pulled out my sub, but I would be quite surprised if the stock amp would have issues with hooking up an 8ohm sub to it. If it does, it will most likely be a high volumes and it will let you know by ceasing to emit sound temporarily. Granted I've only really ever abused aftermarket audio equipment, so there's always the chance it could fry it permanently, so don't let me talk you into something you aren't comfortable with...
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
What year is your LX? ML? Nak?
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Yes. Resistors are positive side instead of negative as my description outlines, but as mentioned they have no polarity and are in series so it shouldn't matter which side they are attached to...
I want to add a amp & sub to bypass the OEM crapbox, how has this been done.
Last summer I swapped all OEM speakers for the following:
Front doors: Infiniti 6030CS
Rear doors: Infiniti 6032CF
Rear sub: Pyle PLPW6D
I was not happy with the Pyle sub, it sounded like s***. So I want to add an amp and better sub....but not sure how to handle it.
Last summer I swapped all OEM speakers for the following:
Front doors: Infiniti 6030CS
Rear doors: Infiniti 6032CF
Rear sub: Pyle PLPW6D
I was not happy with the Pyle sub, it sounded like s***. So I want to add an amp and better sub....but not sure how to handle it.
This was extremely easy to fix the subwoofer, just order the kit and refoam it. The ML subwoofer is a very high grade subwoofer, and it's extremely easy to removed. Cost $18 kit. Works perfect now. Just did this over weekend
Anyone have a better wiring diagram for this?
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Check out my post here,
Replaced the speakers in our '03 100. Write-up including sub replacement
i talk about the wiring and posted a video. All you need to do if you are using the dual voice coil pyle is wire each pair on either side. getting + and - straight is important.
The negative (-) leads are the black and red wires
The positive (+) leads are the yellow and blue wires
or watch my video
Last edited:
Just to participate in this write up...all the info was very helpful. I purchased the audiopipe 6" S-RV 4 ohm sub. Had to trim the enclosure once I removed it (following the directions in the post). Followed the Red and Black wires as negative, used wood screws to mount the speaker (holes didn't line up with factory holes in the enclosure) so I screwed new holes North, South, West and East (as oppose to the SW, SE, NE, and NW factory holes). Came out perfect and had no issues with the speaker not working or sounding poorly. I've been driving around for a year with a torn sub, so the audiopipe sounds great. Forget how it sounded before so I can't compare. Thank everyone!
Bought the sub from www.carid.com $35 including shipping.
Bought the sub from www.carid.com $35 including shipping.
So did you use any resistors or not?
Amazon has it for $13.
I'm a amazon guy, why did I not get it from there???.... strange, could have been the egg nog. I did not use resistors or anything other than the sub. Just had to shave off a bit of the enclosure to make it fit. I thought about using saran wrap and the "great stuff" crack filler to give a nice seal but went with the "best effort" approach. Worked out fine.
