How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by mtnracer, May 5, 2009.

  1. Dozer18

    Dozer18

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    FWIW, I did the Pyle 6" sub install last weekend. It might fit without trimming in the LX, but in my '04 LC it required trimming. The sub has to sit flush in the housing; if there is a gap between the frame and enclosure then you have the same issue as having the foam blown out - air is escaping that is not supposed to escape.

    I used a dremel with a metal cutting wheel to trim all the way around the edge, about 1/4" in. Didn't take long, was actually a bit fun, and fit very nicely when I bolted it in. As noted, there are four wires to connect: the red and black wires are negative the other two positive.

    Does it sound great? No. Don't kid yourself, no 6" sub, much less a $12 one, is going to win any bass competitions. Does it sound better than the blown sub it replaced? Yep. Plus, it was worth it to take the panel off so I can see how much space is back there as I contemplate my drawer and accessory wiring setup that's coming soon.
     
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  2. johsti

    johsti

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    Yes, the door speaker and the sub use the same foam surround.
     
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  3. ad27326

    ad27326

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    How do you remove the speaker from the box? Pry it open? Need to refoam!!
     
  4. johsti

    johsti

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    Unplug the connector and remove the entire enclosure from the vehicle. Then remove the Torx screws that secure the woofer to the enclosure. You will need to carefully peel back the foam to access the screws.
     
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  5. Slashzero

    Slashzero SILVER Star

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    I have a 2003 LC with blown speakers. Can you use the same 6 inch foam kit for front speakers, rear, and sub? I think my DS tweeter is also blown...
     
  6. jumptrader

    jumptrader

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    I used this set in a 2003 LX470 (Mark Levinson speakers) for the sub - it worked perfectly even though it's advertised for the front door speakers. The seller is quick to answer fit questions, so I recommend reaching out! Good luck - the job is easier than it looks and took me about 2-3 hours from start to finish (and I'm a n00b).

    2000-2009 Lexus Lx470 Front Door Speaker Foam Surround Repair Kit 86160-0w270 | eBay
     
  7. Slashzero

    Slashzero SILVER Star

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    Thanks! Seems like the front, rear and sub are all the same size. I just ordered three sets.

    I'd rather pay $25 for a set of two, than $18 for a single one. :) Plus, I'll have one extra in case I screw it up!

    I got these ones:
    2000-2007 Toyota Land Cruiser 86160-0W340 Speaker Woofer Foam Repair Kit (Pair) | eBay

     
  8. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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    Can anyone recommend a good non-oem speakers/subs for the 2k Hundy Subwoofer? If I recall, the 2k has 2 4 inch subs?
     
  9. labcab

    labcab

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  10. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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  11. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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    @labcab How do they compare to the OEM in terms of sound and performance? Same, better?
     
  12. labcab

    labcab

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    A friend gave me a big box, amp and two 12” woofers that I used for a little while. They don’t compare to that kind of setup, but they crush the OEMs. I’ve now got them wired up to an aftermarket amp. They put out way more bass than I care for and sound really good.

     
  13. CloudCity

    CloudCity

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    The front door lower speakers and the subwoofer all use the same 6" foam kit, the rear doors are a smaller 5" size.
    You can buy the 6" kit in pairs or as a single piece, tho the price difference isn't huge so I opted to buy two pairs and have an extra foam.
    I do advise adding on one order of the optional "Foam Guard Liquid Sealer" because it is different than the adhesive that's already included in the kits. The adhesive is a contact-cement type that goes on amber, but the sealer is in a small squeeze bottle and goes on white but dries clear, it is used to "toughen up" the speaker foam by essentially creating a layer of rubberized material that will keep the foam holding together much longer than the foam by itself. You assemble the foam part and once cured you brush the sealer on the entire foam piece.

    Here's the current listing for speaker foams from Simply Speakers for the LX 470. I truly cannot say enough good things about this company's promptness in replying to questions, sending units out, returns are a snap. Good people and a good product.

    Simply Speakers, Lexus LX 470 foam kits

    Finally, if nobody else mentioned this yet, there's also a screw hidden under the rear cargo net upper plastic hook that needs to be removed before you can pull the subwoofer panel out.


     
    Last edited: Jul 13, 2018
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  14. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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    So, what kit did you use to match the bolt pattern up to the box? I couldn't find a way to make it fit in the space- the Dayton Audio ND105-4 driver bezel is too small for the OEM bolt pattern. Can you tell me if you used a universal 4 inch speaker mount or?


    Also, as the OEM are 2 OHM, and these are 4 OHM, will that be an issue if I'm using the factory amp?


    Would these work?

    Metra 82-8148 Speaker Mounting Brackets
     
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2018
  15. labcab

    labcab

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    If you look at the pic I posted here:
    What have you done to your 100 Series this week?

    ...you can see the 1/4” tempered hardboard “adapter” I made to fit the speakers. Easy to cut out with a jig saw and it can be sloppy as it’s not visible. Glue it down and use the old screw holes to secure it. Even if you’ve never done anything like this, it’s hard to mess up.

    Can’t speak to the 2-ohm vs 4-ohm piece as I had an aftermarket amp. The Metra brackets look like they’re made for the doors and too big for the Daytons.
     
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  16. WickedPickle

    WickedPickle

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    KICKER SUB.JPG KICKER SUB 2.JPG KICKER SUB 3.JPG KICKER SUB 4.JPG I have a 2006 LC 100 and recently did the NAV delete from Jerry's post so I'm running a new 5 channel amp and double din head unit. I replaced the stock SW with a kicker 6.5" ($79.95 off of e-bay). I'm running 150 watts to it with a max of 300 capable. I used a dremel sanding wheel to remove the interference areas and then JB weld any weak spots. I also put some sound matting behind the enclosure and secured the gas cap door opening cable as that rattled. The new enclosure sounds bigger than one would think a 6.5 is capable of producing with no rattles. Everything looks stock. I used a 3M heavy drip sealant from Paul's post on redoing snowy to make a nice platform for the speaker to sit on but not sure that was really necessary. After you remove material with the dremel you just want to make sure you can push down on the seating platform and not have movement. I finished the speaker placement off with silicone in non used screw holes and around the outside of the speaker edge where it mates with the enclosure.

    Kicker speaker is great but you will only realize this if you can put more watts/power to the speaker.
     
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  17. WickedPickle

    WickedPickle

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    I forgot to add I did change the speaker from 2 ohm to 4 ohm by running a wire between the positive and negative terminals on the speaker. This kept the speaker running within it's rated power window that matches amp output.
     
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  18. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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    Thanks Man!
    Can you please explain this in further detail?
     
  19. WickedPickle

    WickedPickle

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  20. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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    So, using your example- I would run a wire between the + and - terminals on the speaker to make the 4 OHM speaker (instead of the OEM 2 OHM speaker) work in the range of the AMP? Sorry, just making sure, I don't want to blow anything up.
     
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