I’m a fan of the OE rims. The 16” ones on the early 100s in particular are functional and so cheap they’re practically disposable, but they don’t need to look that way. I scored some on FBM for next to nothing, but they were covered in Plasti-Dip. I’ll share how I made them look nearly factory-new.
First, tackling the Plasti-Dip. It’s best done with a pressure washer, working from the outside in. If it was laid on thick and you’re lucky, it will come off in almost one piece. Otherwise, a wire brush and some acetone are your friends.
I had the tires and wheel weights removed. The rim underneath was in ok shape, with a little curb rash and a few dings that I filled with JB Weld. After the usual scrub, degrease, scuff, and dry, time for an alloy silver topcoat. I chose not to change the color, and Raptor 1K silver was a near dead match to the factory silver paint:
$20 at AutoZone. Spot prime where there is bare metal, and go easy on the topcoat. You want to keep it thin so the cast alloy texture does not get filled. 1 can lasted me for 3 wheels with just a bit left over.
Let the topcoat FULLY dry. 3 days minimum, up to a week if it’s cold or humid. It cannot be off-gassing even a little bit for the next step.
You’ll be clearcoating with this:
About $30 for a can. I cannot say enough good things about this product. I’ve painted in a pro body shop, and results I get in my garage with SprayMax rival it. Anyone who has ever chased that super-glossy wet look with a rattlecan knows it’s impossible. The best you ever get is a semi-gloss that you can scratch with your fingernail. This is a 2-part urethane that gets mixed in the can, cures to a rock hard glassy finish (you can also get it in satin and matte).
It’s worth taking precautions, both for your health and getting a factory finish.
I use a cheap painting tent with an exhaust fan. It eliminates most of the dust and bugs that always seem to land in your wet paint. SprayMax requires good PPE: get a proper respirator (not a face mask), gloves, goggles. Tyvek suit if you’re sensitive. The warnings on the can don’t mess around.
Spraying the clear coat takes a little getting used to. After punching the button on the bottom, which catalyzes the urethane, you have 48 hours to finish the can (I’ve doubled that by storing it in the fridge). Spray a light tack coat, let it flash off, followed by 2 wet finish coats, 15-20 minutes apart. You can lay SprayMax on more heavily than regular rattlecan paint, but it will run if you’re not careful. Let the last coat sit for an hour, then carefully move it to a warm dry place to cure for about a day. Heat up to 120F speeds things up significantly. This is what it looks like after curing:
It’s hard to capture the results with a camera, but I coated over the chrome logo on the caps and it’s so clear that you cannot tell that the chrome has anything on it.
Total spent for refinishing 3 wheels and 1 cap: about $60, plus a day of labor. I like the glossy finish because it sheds brake dust better, but if a more “natural” alloy look is your thing, the satin or matte clearcoat will give you that.
First, tackling the Plasti-Dip. It’s best done with a pressure washer, working from the outside in. If it was laid on thick and you’re lucky, it will come off in almost one piece. Otherwise, a wire brush and some acetone are your friends.
I had the tires and wheel weights removed. The rim underneath was in ok shape, with a little curb rash and a few dings that I filled with JB Weld. After the usual scrub, degrease, scuff, and dry, time for an alloy silver topcoat. I chose not to change the color, and Raptor 1K silver was a near dead match to the factory silver paint:
$20 at AutoZone. Spot prime where there is bare metal, and go easy on the topcoat. You want to keep it thin so the cast alloy texture does not get filled. 1 can lasted me for 3 wheels with just a bit left over.
Let the topcoat FULLY dry. 3 days minimum, up to a week if it’s cold or humid. It cannot be off-gassing even a little bit for the next step.
You’ll be clearcoating with this:
About $30 for a can. I cannot say enough good things about this product. I’ve painted in a pro body shop, and results I get in my garage with SprayMax rival it. Anyone who has ever chased that super-glossy wet look with a rattlecan knows it’s impossible. The best you ever get is a semi-gloss that you can scratch with your fingernail. This is a 2-part urethane that gets mixed in the can, cures to a rock hard glassy finish (you can also get it in satin and matte).
It’s worth taking precautions, both for your health and getting a factory finish.
I use a cheap painting tent with an exhaust fan. It eliminates most of the dust and bugs that always seem to land in your wet paint. SprayMax requires good PPE: get a proper respirator (not a face mask), gloves, goggles. Tyvek suit if you’re sensitive. The warnings on the can don’t mess around.
Spraying the clear coat takes a little getting used to. After punching the button on the bottom, which catalyzes the urethane, you have 48 hours to finish the can (I’ve doubled that by storing it in the fridge). Spray a light tack coat, let it flash off, followed by 2 wet finish coats, 15-20 minutes apart. You can lay SprayMax on more heavily than regular rattlecan paint, but it will run if you’re not careful. Let the last coat sit for an hour, then carefully move it to a warm dry place to cure for about a day. Heat up to 120F speeds things up significantly. This is what it looks like after curing:
It’s hard to capture the results with a camera, but I coated over the chrome logo on the caps and it’s so clear that you cannot tell that the chrome has anything on it.
Total spent for refinishing 3 wheels and 1 cap: about $60, plus a day of labor. I like the glossy finish because it sheds brake dust better, but if a more “natural” alloy look is your thing, the satin or matte clearcoat will give you that.
Last edited:
