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How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by mtnracer, May 5, 2009.

  1. Rcmay

    Rcmay

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    I did this to my LX but I used resistors. My sound is ok, at best. It tends to distort with any bass. I may try to rewrire it tomorrow with the resistors
     
  2. JackAttack13

    JackAttack13

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    I just picked up a 99 and noticed throughout this thread that nobody was sub 2000 that did this mod. Do the 99 models have a sub as well? Do they have the weird dual 4 inch sub setup?
     
  3. labcab

    labcab

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    Dual 4" is standard issue for '98-'00. The process is similar, but the woofers aren't easy to track down. I replaced mine with Dayton Audio ND105-4s, but they aren't perfect replacements. I'm driving them with a Pioneer amp, so the factory amps impedance wasn't a concern, but I still had to make an adapter. They sound great to me, but I'm not an audiophile or a basshead.

    What have you done to your 100 Series this week?
     
  4. PabloCruise

    PabloCruise

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    Dual 4" standard for LC and LX in '98-'00?
     
  5. labcab

    labcab

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    Sorry, I meant '98-'00 LCs. Did all '98-'00 LXs have the Nakamichi system? Or would some of them have had dual 4" woofers?
     
  6. silverbullitt

    silverbullitt

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    I've wired up an amp to the back of my truck. Hooked an line-out converter to the output of my factory subwoofer. Hooked that up to the input of the amp & installed a small enclosure with a 12" mtx sub in it. Bass hits real hard when you inside my truck. But standing outside it sounds factory. Truck don't rattle from the bass. Anybody interested I can show you how to get bass!,
     
  7. silverbullitt

    silverbullitt

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    This is part of what you need for the add on amp. Buy a wiring kit from Walmart, it can be basic. You not gonna need a lot of power. Then find you a box that'll fit nicely behind the 3rd row seat. I will take pics of the amp & sub when it's daylight

    Screenshot_20170210-221651.png
     
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  8. Nathan Neumeyer

    Nathan Neumeyer

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    Quick question for the sound wizArds on this post! At what point does it start taking a toll on your alternator or battery?
     
  9. brizzle

    brizzle

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    It has been a long time since I added major amps to a system not sure how far you will have to go to start pulling more than the alt and stock batt can handle but bet it's not to much. You'll know when your headlights start dimming :) I would say if you are going to take it very far spring for a dual battery system and you should be good to go and ready for overlanding electronics as well. A couple slee battery trays, a blue sea ml-acr, and odysseys and you will be set. Going to be doing that to mine soon but more for fridge, lights, radios, etc
     
  10. jerryb

    jerryb

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    Anywhere up to and including a quality amp at 900 watts is fine with upgraded grounds under the hood. IMHO
    Add your fridge and things change i'm sure, I don't have one. I see dips into 13.4xV with a front and rear AC and headlights on. 4 gauge wire all around. 12" punch sub. (new stock battery at purchase and alternator of undetermined age) ymmv
     
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  11. silverbullitt

    silverbullitt

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    I had my amp in my truck for 4yrs now. No problem so far. Has a stock sound standing outside of the vehicle. But hits hard when you inside the vehicle. Another alternative you can use is a load capacitor that stays charged & most of the load strain comes from the cap & not the battery.
     
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  12. Nathan Neumeyer

    Nathan Neumeyer

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    Thank you for he info!! How much does a dual battery setup like that usually run?
     
  13. brizzle

    brizzle

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    Setting up dual batteries can be as cheap as around $300 (with battery) if you just add a battery and use the least expensive relay options. If you go with dual agm batteries and a high end relay you can get up to $1000. I did one video discussing different relay options and one talking about types of batteries and pairing.

    This is certainly a wise investment if you are adding lots of accessories for overlanding but might be excessive for stereo upgrades only unless they're extreme. @silverbullitt makes a great point, I had a large capacitor when I had a large stereo system back in the day and it kept things from draining things too much.

    Here are the two videos, please ignore the hecklers :)


     
  14. fooldall1

    fooldall1

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    Blake, did you write up the instructions on applying the new foam? I'm interested in doing this fix myself as my rear speakers/subs are buzzing like a mofo.
     
  15. schaff70

    schaff70

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    I just finished installing an Audiopipe 6" sub in the factory box yesterday. I replaced the head unit a while back and have Blaupunkt overdrive woofers up front and Bazooka 6.5" 2-way speakers in the rear doors. The weekend before I ran the RCA cables and the wiring for a small Kicker amp under the passenger side front seat for the new sub. I really don't want to run new speaker wires to the rear sub. What color wires are under the front seat that run from the factory amp to the rear sub box? I connected the yellow/red wires to the sub inside the box as the new sub is only a single voice coil.
    My issue is that the red and yelloww wires under the front seat are smaller than those attached to the sub in the box.
    [​IMG]

    The old sub was toasted a long time ago & hasn't been powered by anything since I replaced the head unit a few years ago.

    [​IMG]

    This is something I've been wanting to do for a long time, I just never got around to it.
     
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  16. schaff70

    schaff70

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    Didn't feel like waiting or looking for the answer, so I pulled the rear panel off and ran new wires from under the passenger side seat, under the carpet along the rear door sill, then partially under the passenger side rear panel to where it meets the rear carpet split. From there it was a straight shot across the truck. All bolted back up & sounds great!