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How to: Replacing OEM Subwoofer in 3rd Row

Discussion in '100-Series Cruisers' started by mtnracer, May 5, 2009.

  1. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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    My 3rd row subwoofer blew out a few weeks ago and I finally got around to replacing it. Thought I do a quick write up in case anyone else has to go through this.

    The OEM JBL enclosure in my 2003 LC with Nav contains one Dual Voice Coil 5.75"" subwoofer. I replaced it with a 6" sub and had to trim away some plastic around the mounting surface with a dremel.

    Dual Voice coil means that there are two connector sets (4 wires) on the woofer.

    During the installation I found that the JBL sub may be proprietary in some way. I say this because when I installed the replacement sub with dual voice coil, it stopped working when both connectors were hooked up. It works fine when only one connector is used. I thought there may be a short in the new woofer but another brand of speaker showed the same problem. I am no car audio pro, so not sure what this means. I completed the install with one connector and it sounds fine.


    Tools you will need:
    14 mm Socket
    10 mm Socket
    Torx T-20 Bit
    Medium Philips Head Screwdriver
    Dremel

    Speaker I used:
    Audiopipe TS-V6

    Step by Step:
    1. Clear cargo area to give yourself some room
    2. Remove left side 3rd row seat if installed
    3. Fold and tumble left side of 2nd row seats
    4. Unbolt seatbelt connector for left side second row and left side third row with 14mm socket
    5. With firm force, pull up the left rear door sill cover and remove. It is held in with 2 or 3 plastic plugs and comes up easily
    6. Starting at the rear of the cargo area and using the same force as for the door sill, pull the side cladding away from the sheet metal. Once you create a small opening you should disconnect the 12V rear power outlet cable. There are lots of plastic plugs you need to pull out. Work your way forward until the panel folds away and lets you access the subwoofer. There are lots of cables and connectors back there so be careful.
    7. You can now disconnect the subwoofer connector on the right side.
    8. Remove the screws holding in the subwoofer enclosure using the 10mm socket
    9. Set the enclosure on a stable work surface and remove the 4 Torx screws holding the woofer in the enclosure using the T-20 bit.
    10. Cut the speaker wires as close to the terminals as possible to leave as much speaker wire as possible.
    11. Using your new woofer as a template, mark the area you need to trim on the enclosure. If you can find a woofer that fits perfectly you may be able to avoid trimming.
    12. Connect the speaker wire to the new woofer. In my truck, red (+) / yellow (-) made one pair while green (+) / black (-) is the other. If you are using a single voice coil woofer, just insulate the unused wires and tape them to the other to avoid rattles. I tried connecting both voice coils on the Audiopipe TS-V6 but this did not work. I just connected the red / yellow combo and it works fine. Still disappointed that I could not get both to work - I did spend quite a bit of time troubleshooting.
    13. Use the Torx screws to mount the woofer in the enclosure.
    14. Re-install the enclosure in the side panel and connect the woofer plug back to the enclosure.
    15. Test the woofer
    16. Watch for plastic plugs that may have popped out and put them back in the slots on the panel. Work slowly and take your time. It will all go back together.
    17. Starting at the bottom, push the carpet and padding back into the channel. Then begin installing the panel starting at the rear door and moving back to the rear hatch.
    18. Re-install seatbelt bolts.
    19. Re-install door sill cover

    I think I covered most important points. I would love some feedback on the dual voice coil issue as this is bugging me.
    P4290017-800.jpg P4290018-800.jpg P4290019-800.jpg
     
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  2. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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    More pics
    P4290020-800.jpg P4290021-800.jpg P4290022-800.jpg
     
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  3. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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  4. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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    Some more pics
    P4280015-800.jpg P4280016-800.jpg P4290025-800.jpg
     
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  5. TXLX470

    TXLX470

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    nice write up...this has been in my to do list for a while...and I need to change the all the speaker cloths as well...
     
  6. Sandroad

    Sandroad SILVER Star

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    Thanks for the write up; you made it look easy! You mentioned trouble-shooting the speaker(s). Did you trouble-shoot the amplifier too? I wonder if one channel of the amp is bad and that's what killed the factory sub as well as caused problems with the Audiopipe when hooking up both channels?
     
  7. abewley

    abewley

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    my factory sub was dual vc and was a 2ohm load onthe amp ..IIRC
     
  8. hoser

    hoser SILVER Star

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    Ah okay. I've deleted my post. I don't want to taint mtnracer's write-up with inaccurate speaker info.
     
  9. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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    Well, you may be on to something. The JBL enclosure has a sticker that says 7.5 OHM / 25 Watts.

    The Audiopipe TS-V6 is rated at 4 OHM, 150 Watt Max.

    Does that help your theory of the overloaded amplifier?
     
  10. stevopike

    stevopike

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    most important question, how does it sound?
     
  11. Topmounter

    Topmounter

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    It's been a long time since I've messed with this stuff, but a speaker rated at 4 ohms is going to be more demanding on the amplifier than the speaker rated at 7.5 ohms. Without a wattage rating at 4 ohms for the amplifier, it's not clear whether the amplifier can handle the load comfortably.

    The dual voice coils on the factory setup "should be" for the right and left channel bass frequencies, if one of them is not working you could very well have a blown channel in the amp. I have no idea why one would stop the other from working, but it could be a short in the wiring or the amp itself.

    If I remember right there is a line-level amplifier buried in the center console that can be replaced.
     
  12. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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    From the feedback I am getting my hunch is that the AMP is shutting down because of the low impedance of the new speaker.

    I did try both channels independently in my troubleshooting. I tried the yellow / red and the black / green combos and both channels on the sub. They all work as long as I only hook up one of the voice coils. I initially thought that the speaker had a short but another brand speaker had the same issue. I am also pretty sure the amp is fine as the original JBL woofer was working fine except that the fabric was torn and sounded like crap.

    That brings me back to impedance. Can anyone confirm?
     
  13. Topmounter

    Topmounter

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  14. mtnracer

    mtnracer

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    Yeah, I looked at that one but the enclosure is too shallow to fit.

    The only dual voice coil woofer with a shallow enough mounting depth I could find was the Audiopipe TS-V6
     
  15. hoser

    hoser SILVER Star

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    mtnracer, it would be of some help to know if the two subwoofer leads are wired in parallel or individual (L/R) channels. You could do this by testing for signal on both pairs and moving the balance control from left to right.
     
  16. coryc85

    coryc85

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    I don't know much about the dual voice coil problem, but for less than $40 you can have the original speaker reconed. In fact, mine is in the shop right now getting it done. I believe most electronics repair shops can do it. I had it done on the drivers door speaker last year and it's been great. Heat and use eventually wear the cone material down and it tears.
     
  17. MidTex

    MidTex

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    Yes, you can get the speakers reconed. It is amazing how cheap, in terms of material quality, the speakers are in the 100 series and that includes the Mark Levinson line in the LX.
     
    Last edited: May 9, 2009
  18. Topmounter

    Topmounter

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    The guys at Car Toys on Broadway and 6th in Denver said they have built custom boxes with an 8" sub to fit in the stock LC sub location... it wasn't cheap though, they mentioned something on the order of a grand :doh:
     
  19. Eicca

    Eicca Professional Noob

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    If you're still interested in calculating wattage, divide volts by ohms and that will give you amps. Then multiply volts by amps and that will give you watts.

    EDIT: never mind... That only appears to work on circuits, but thanks for the info. Time to get replacin' for me.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2009
  20. NMuzj100

    NMuzj100

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    Last edited: Jun 17, 2009