How To: Replace your own steering rack (2 Viewers)

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The engine can be jacked up from underneath after loosening the driver side engine mount. The engine mounts are the big square rubber things attached to the frame (pic below). Only the driver side will lift up, stick a block of wood in the new space and lower the engine back down onto it (see two posts ago). Also, you want to loosen the Fan Shroud so it doesn’t get cracked from the fan as it rises with the engine.

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Thanks, Ayune! That is certainly music to my ears ☺️
My follow up question, where am I jacking the engine from and where exactly am I placing a 2x4? Sorry this may make me sound like a complete noob but I learn by watching (which is how I very easily replaced two timing belts on two different LX470’s before).
 
Thanks, Ayune! That is certainly music to my ears ☺
My follow up question, where am I jacking the engine from and where exactly am I placing a 2x4? Sorry this may make me sound like a complete noob but I learn by watching (which is how I very easily replaced two timing belts on two different LX470’s before).
It's really obvious once you're under there where the engine mount is... @Ayune posted a pic of the mount as well. It's on the drivers side.

Throw the jack on something sturdy. I don't remember where I jacked it up from but I recall it being pretty obvious what the best place was.

Just lift it until you can get a 2x4 between the engine mount.

Also, I never loosened my fan shroud (forgot to) and didn't damage it.
 
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Sorry for my English. I want to know what parts you use when finalizing the steering rack. I think I need a repair kit:
1. Toyota 04445-60080 NOK or Toyota?
2. Toyota 45517-60010
3. Toyota 45522-60010
The situation with the two positions is clear. Tell me what do you use in 1 and 3 positions, original / analog - Toyota / NOK, will polyurethane be better in 3?
What else needs to be replaced?
My car is 1999.
 
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It's really obvious once you're under there where the engine mount is... @Ayune posted a pic of the mount as well. It's on the drivers side.

Throw the jack on something sturdy. I don't remember where I jacked it up from but I recall it being pretty obvious what the best place was.

Just lift it until you can get a 2x4 between the engine mount.

Also, I never loosened my fan shroud (forgot to) and didn't damage it.
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So here are my questions:
Do I need to remove the center 17mm bolt to remove the engine mounts?
Is the second picture with the red arrow where you jack up the engine from?

Thanks!
 
One more thing...is there a better place to put these two black jack stands instead of where they are currently placed?

thanks!
 
So here are my questions:
Do I need to remove the center 17mm bolt to remove the engine mounts?
Is the second picture with the red arrow where you jack up the engine from?

Thanks!

1. For the engine mount, remove the two screws that hold the mount on to the chassis. This will leave a nice flat surface for you to place the wood block. (NOTE: the chassis nuts may be welded to the chassis and not able to turn :wrench:). From your pic it looks like you've removed at least one of the screws already.

The center bolt in your pic is attached to the mount and the engine won't lift up if you just remove the upper nut.
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2. Yes, that's a fine place to jack the engine. It will only lift about 1.5" so don't keep jacking or you may lift the truck off of the jack stands! :(
 
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One more thing...is there a better place to put these two black jack stands instead of where they are currently placed?

thanks!

Definitely move them to the frame.

I placed mine at the rearward frame position shown in @Ayune illustration above. It was very stable and solid.
 
Guys thank you for the prompt replies! I was able to remove and place the reman in there. Now trying to connect the long steering shaft to the unit. Otherwise I’m good to go! Thanks again!

MMA
 
Guys thank you for the prompt replies! I was able to remove and place the reman in there. Now trying to connect the long steering shaft to the unit. Otherwise I’m good to go! Thanks again!

MMA

Good deal. Just rotate the new unit until you can get the collar of the steering shaft started on the splines of the steering rack, THEN position it and drop the bolts in place to hold it. It's kind of a juggling act....but you'll get it.

What color is your LX?
 
Good deal. Just rotate the new unit until you can get the collar of the steering shaft started on the splines of the steering rack, THEN position it and drop the bolts in place to hold it. It's kind of a juggling act....but you'll get it.

What color is your LX?

Up until this past May I owned two LX’s: a golden one and a gunstock grey. I sold the grey one after returning from a military deployment since I had orders to move to a different location. Between the grey and gold I have done extensive work on them. Timing belts, CV axles, drive shaft, front differential, master brake cylinder, alternators and connectors, regular oil changes, and some other random stuff. Most of what I did I found on YouTube and more specifically OTRAMM who hasn’t uploaded any new videos in almost an entire year. He’s a really good mechanic who specializes in Land Cruisers and other Toyota/Lexus vehicles.
Btw the grey was a ‘99 and the gold one is a 2000. At any rate, I have attached a few pics of both the LX’s.
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Ugh...so I got everything put together the way it’s supposed to and after I started up the engine, I noticed a leak of ATF from the driver’s side. Not sure where it could be coming from exactly but my only hunch is from the lines going to the R&P. I’ve attached a pic and it’s basically dripping every two second. I received two o rings with the R&P and I placed them inside the corresponding holes...not sure if that could be the culprit 🧐

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Sorry guys for keep extending this thread but I do believe the ATF leak was from the front and rear lines as I forgot to tighten them with my torque wrench. Evidently I hadn’t tightened to spec and once I did that, it seems to not be leaking anymore 🤞🏽

Understandable. One of them is a real bugger to reach and tighten anyway. I actually got my 'Crows-foot wrench' stuck on one of them and had a devil of a time removing it. Glad you got it sorted out. Thanks for the follow up.
 
If I buy the "Rack And Pinion Assembly - (44250-60050)" from Toyota, does it come with new bushing?
 
If I buy the "Rack And Pinion Assembly - (44250-60050)" from Toyota, does it come with new bushing?
It should come with the one bushing that's pressed in, but I don't remember if it comes with the larger hourseshoe bushing
 
Mine did not come with the D-shaped bushing, only the one that was already pressed into the eye mount
 

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