How To: Replace your own steering rack

[Beto Cruiser]

The top return line (44348-60240) is actually cheaper on Wits' End as opposed to Partsouq by $27.12 after shipping. The bottom feed line is not sold as an individual part and is only available as part of the entire formed hose assembly ($450-600).

Part number for my return hose ends in 260, not 240, and it is a couple dollars cheaper on partsouq after shipping. Reservoir is way cheaper on partsouq. But yeah, partsouq does not have the 3/8 hose on its own. You can get that at any auto store for a few dollars. Won't be pre-molded, but that's not a deal breaker for me in this application.

 

[l3n0x]

Do you guys have to pay tax & VAT when ordering from partsouq?

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Do you guys have to pay tax & VAT when ordering from partsouq?

They haven't added VAT or taxes to any of my purchases.

 

[Roosevelt T]

Part number for my return hose ends in 260, not 240, and it is a couple dollars cheaper on partsouq after shipping. Reservoir is way cheaper on partsouq. But yeah, partsouq does not have the 3/8 hose on its own. You can get that at any auto store for a few dollars. Won't be pre-molded, but that's not a deal breaker for me in this application.

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I cut that damn hose, I couldn't get it off. It's a 5/8 hose, isn't it?

 

[atnolan94]

Order the hoses from wits' end. @NLXTACY

 

[Roosevelt T]

Order the hoses from wits' end. @NLXTACY

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that just looks like bulk hose to me - I can get that for 8 bucks a foot from the local LC shop I have help me with my cars occasionally.

 

[Beto Cruiser]

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but that just looks like bulk hose to me - I can get that for 8 bucks a foot from the local LC shop I have help me with my cars occasionally.

Technically it's molded, but it's slight and not 100% necessary. Just make sure you buy the correct type of hose (transmission oil cooler hose, not fuel or vacuum hose).

 

[biggulps]

Has anyone made their horn beep while driving the steering column off of the gear?

To be more specific, when I replaced mine I used a long pry bar and lodged it on the couple where the column attaches to the gear and banged it until it came out. Towards the end it would beep with every hit.

Second question, has anybody ever damaged/broken their u joints while banging on them to get the column to disconnect from the rack?

 

[Ayune]

Did you completely remove the screw from the coupling before trying to separate it from the rack input shaft? The screw needs to come out before disassembly.

To sound the horn the contacts below the airbag need to close. Those contacts can be pretty close, allowing a gentle tap on your horn pad to sound the horn. Sounds like the vibrations from your banging traveled through the steering column and closed those contacts.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

I am attempting this over the weekend! This seems to be one of those rite of passage 100 repairs. Thank you EVERYONE! @ENGINE er @PabloCruise for the extra details.

Wish me luck!

 

[flintknapper]

I am attempting this over the weekend! This seems to be one of those rite of passage 100 repairs. Thank you EVERYONE! @ENGINE er @PabloCruise for the extra details.

Wish me luck!

You'll get it. Once the old steering rack is OUT....it's all downhill from there and you'll feel much relieved.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Does anyone know if you can also center the rack by pulling the steering wheel and centering there?

 

[Ayune]

Does anyone know if you can also center the rack by pulling the steering wheel and centering there?

How far off is it? Do you have VGRS? If so, center it by recalibrating the steering angle.

The rack has its center, which should be set to ensure equal travel left & right. Sure, it can be off by a little bit with the difference taken up by the tie rod ends (“alignment”), but it pays to get it right when replacing.

The clockspring (under the airbag) also has its center which should be set so as not to damage it.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

How far off is it? Do you have VGRS? If so, center it by recalibrating the steering angle.

The rack has its center, which should be set to ensure equal travel left & right. Sure, it can be off by a little bit with the difference taken up by the tie rod ends (“alignment”), but it pays to get it right when replacing.

The clockspring (under the airbag) also has its center which should be set so as not to damage it.

I don't have vgrs. I guess I'm just wondering if there's a difference between getting the steering wheel centered on the steering rack input shaft VS just pulling the wheel.

I have everything out back together and it's a tight fit for my big hands to get that shaft on and off.

 

[6H05T]

When jacking the engine on the drivers side, where is the best jacking point? Or do you need a hoist?

 

[6H05T]

Completed changing my rack out. Used a bottle jack under a short 2x4 block against oilpan to lift engine with driver side engine mount unbolted. Makes it a whole lot easier.
Things to note.
1) In step 10 of original post the steering wheel is turned to far right, I did not do that, left it in center straight ahead position. Think centering rack is better way to go.
2) Check that new rack is in same position as old one was when removed. In my case made sure rack was centered in travel.
3) Clean the power steering oil tank. The tank has a fine mesh filter in bottom, mine spit out a bunch of powdered metal and some big chucks of an O-ring. Dish soap and garden hose to back flush. A plugged tank would shorten life of the new rack.
4) Manual says rack mounting nuts and bolts should be replaced, as they are coated, expect you could get away with blue Locktite on them. Also gaskets for front PS fluid line should be replaced, all of these parts do not come with rack.

Nvm... found it sorry

 

[Ayune]

When jacking the engine on the drivers side, where is the best jacking point? Or do you need a hoist?

Best to lift on the bell housing flange just aft of the oil pan/drain plug. You don't want to risk bending the pan itself.

With the driver's side engine mount disconnected the engine will only lift 1.5". Just enough to slip a 2x4 between the engine mount flanges and lower the engine down onto the wood block.

And don't forget to loosen the fan shroud so it can move with the engine and not get cracked by the upwardly mobile fan.

 

[6H05T]

Best to lift on the bell housing flange just aft of the oil pan/drain plug. You don't want to risk bending the pan itself.

With the driver's side engine mount disconnected the engine will only lift 1.5". Just enough to slip a 2x4 between the engine mount flanges and lower the engine down onto the wood block.

And don't forget to loosen the fan shroud so it can move with the engine and not get cracked by the upwardly mobile fan.

Thanks a bunch!

 

[2000LX470]

Hey guys, this is a great post and I have already gotten enough courage to get started on this project. I am however stuck now. I took a slightly different route on my 2000 LX470. I removed the inner tie rods from both sides hoping I’d be able to pull out the rest from the front but I’m stuck. The oil filter housing is getting in the way and I don’t have an engine hoist either. Most of you have mentioned using the hoist to lift the engine but quite frankly I have no clue where the engine mounts are or where to even lift the engine from. I could probably either buy an engine hoist from harbor freight or rent one from a local store here in TX.

Please help with pics or any other info to help me finish this task.

 

[Ayune]

The engine can be jacked up from underneath after loosening the driver side engine mount. The engine mounts are the big square rubber things attached to the frame (pic below). Only the driver side will lift up, stick a block of wood in the new space and lower the engine back down onto it (see two posts ago). Also, you want to loosen the Fan Shroud so it doesn’t get cracked from the fan as it rises with the engine.