How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)

[prwillard2]

Didn't keep track of the parts cost. I did all of the labor (except front end alignment) and have all the tools necessary to accomplish it, so the overall cost was not significant. Time consuming, but worth it to me.

reading through your other thread now. did you make a full list of parts you replaced?

 

[flintknapper]

reading through your other thread now. did you make a full list of parts you replaced?

Affirmative.

I believe I made a mostly inclusive list of the work performed, but did not itemize or create specific part numbers.

Look toward the end of that thread.

• Replaced Steering Rack with OEM
• Replaced Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings (including lower #2 in frame)
• Replaced Front Diff Bushings and Pucks
• Replaced Anti-Sway Bar Bushings
• Replaced Upper and Lower LCA Ball Joints with (555)
• Replaced Tie Rods both sides (555)
• Replaced CV Axles both sides
• Replaced Drive Flanges both sides
• Replaced Wheel Bearings and Races (Koyo)
• Replaced Brake Rotors both sides (Brembo)
• Rebuilt Brake Calipers both sides
• Replaced Brake Pads (OEM)
• Replaced Diff Seals both sides
• Replaced all hoses to Oil Cooler
• Disassembled, cleaned and resealed Oil Cooler
• Changed out front diff gear lube
• New engine oil and oil filter
• Drained and refilled radiator/cooling system
• All new gaskets and seals everywhere

 

[PabloCruise]

Affirmative.

I believe I made a mostly inclusive list of the work performed, but did not itemize or create specific part numbers.

Look toward the end of that thread.

• Replaced Steering Rack with OEM
• Replaced Upper and Lower Control Arm Bushings (including lower #2 in frame)
• Replaced Front Diff Bushings and Pucks
• Replaced Anti-Sway Bar Bushings
• Replaced Upper and Lower LCA Ball Joints with (555)
• Replaced Tie Rods both sides (555)
• Replaced CV Axles both sides
• Replaced Drive Flanges both sides
• Replaced Wheel Bearings and Races (Koyo)
• Replaced Brake Rotors both sides (Brembo)
• Rebuilt Brake Calipers both sides
• Replaced Brake Pads (OEM)
• Replaced Diff Seals both sides
• Replaced all hoses to Oil Cooler
• Disassembled, cleaned and resealed Oil Cooler
• Changed out front diff gear lube
• New engine oil and oil filter
• Drained and refilled radiator/cooling system
• All new gaskets and seals everywhere

Strong work @flintknapper - did you have any clunks in the front end before this project (like when shifting into D)? If so, did clunks go away after?

 

[flintknapper]

Strong work @flintknapper - did you have any clunks in the front end before this project (like when shifting into D)? If so, did clunks go away after?

Yes, had a very distinctive clunk in both forward and reverse. After the work...completely gone. Since I replaced so many of the front end components at one time.... I can't say for certain which ones solved the issue, but I suspect the front diff bushings and new drive flanges.

It is so satisfying to put into gear now. Absolutely no noise/clunk and no 'feel' through the body of the vehicle.

 

[zhloea]

Will the power steering rack replacement process of 2004 LC100 exactly the same as the 1998-2002 model?
I heard the power steering rack replacement needs to lift up the transmission a little bit but I did not find this process in the thread, so we don't need to lift up transmission right?

Thanks.

 

[flintknapper]

Will the power steering rack replacement process of 2004 LC100 exactly the same as the 1998-2002 model?
I heard the power steering rack replacement needs to lift up the transmission a little bit but I did not find this process in the thread, so we don't need to lift up transmission right?

Thanks.

Procedure should be the same, the only difference I am aware of is that the newer steering racks have different mounting points for the bushings.

The old racks had two steering rack mounted bushings (close together) and a single 'D' bushing that clamped the rack to the cross-member on the passenger side.

The newer racks simply have two rack mounted bushings spaced apart (one toward each end). So theoretically easier to remove (the mounting bolts).

Aside from that....removal should be the same. You don't have to lift the transmission (that I know of) but you will want to unbolt the drivers side motor mount and lift the engine up about an inch.

Alternately, you can remove the oil filter and oil cooler....but most folks shy away from this method unless the oil cooler and lines need attention.

 

[2001LC]

Remember to: Remove fan shroud securing bolts. Otherwise you may damage shroud and or fan blades as you raise LH side of engine. BTW: If heater tees bad, they may bust, as engine raised.

Pulling oil filter, helps give more room. You can reuse it, just oil the seal as always.

Not pulling oil cooler has added benefits. No need to drain coolant. No need to replace block to oil cooler hose. No need to replace oil cooler or oil filter bracket seals.

 

[flintknapper]

Remember to: Remove fan shroud securing bolts. Otherwise you may damage shroud and or fan blades as you raise LH side of engine. BTW: If heater tees bad, they may bust, as engine raised.

Pulling oil filter, helps give more room. You can reuse it, just oil the seal as always.

Not pulling oil cooler has added benefits. No need to drain coolant. No need to replace block to oil cooler hose. No need to replace oil cooler or oil filter bracket seals.

^^^^^
Excellent points.

This is the man that knows.

 

[zhloea]

Procedure should be the same, the only difference I am aware of is that the newer steering racks have different mounting points for the bushings.

The old racks had two steering rack mounted bushings (close together) and a single 'D' bushing that clamped the rack to the cross-member on the passenger side.

View attachment 2586830

The newer racks simply have two rack mounted bushings spaced apart (one toward each end). So theoretically easier to remove (the mounting bolts).

View attachment 2586831
View attachment 2586832


Aside from that....removal should be the same. You don't have to lift the transmission (that I know of) but you will want to unbolt the drivers side motor mount and lift the engine up about an inch.

Alternately, you can remove the oil filter and oil cooler....but most folks shy away from this method unless the oil cooler and lines need attention.

Thank you so much for this detailed tutorial!

 

[zhloea]

Remember to: Remove fan shroud securing bolts. Otherwise you may damage shroud and or fan blades as you raise LH side of engine. BTW: If heater tees bad, they may bust, as engine raised.

Pulling oil filter, helps give more room. You can reuse it, just oil the seal as always.

Not pulling oil cooler has added benefits. No need to drain coolant. No need to replace block to oil cooler hose. No need to replace oil cooler or oil filter bracket seals.

Thank you, so it means we need two points to make sure we have enough room to get the rack out:
1. still need to lift 1 inch of LH side (driver side ) engine
2. need to pull off the oil filter only (but not remove the oil filter housing)

Is my understanding right?

 

[flintknapper]

Thank you, so it means we need two points to make sure we have enough room to get the rack out:
1. still need to lift 1 inch of LH side (driver side ) engine
2. need to pull off the oil filter only (but not remove the oil filter housing)

Is my understanding right?

You got it.

 

[zhloea]

You got it.

Then where we should put the jack when we jack up the engine? put a wood panel under the oil pan then put a jack under there? or some other good place?

 

[2001LC]

Thank you, so it means we need two points to make sure we have enough room to get the rack out:
1. still need to lift 1 inch of LH side (driver side ) engine
2. need to pull off the oil filter only (but not remove the oil filter housing)

Is my understanding right?

Yeah. I lift as fare as I can with a bottle jack under LH side of bell housing. I watch stuff like fan, fan shroud, heater tees/hoses for over-stressing. Use care during install, that you do not get ports for hard lines of rack gear box, hung up. Or you'll damage their threads. Keep factory cover plugs for these ports in place (after pulling to inspect threads), until attaching lines.

 

[zhloea]

Yeah. I lift as fare as I can with a bottle jack under LH side of bell housing. I watch stuff like fan, fan shroud, heater tees/hoses for over-stressing. Use care during install, that you do not get ports for hard lines of rack gear box, hung up. Or you'll damage their threads. Keep factory cover plugs for these ports in place (after pulling to inspect threads), until attaching lines.

Thank you. How many bolts and their locations ( it would be perfect if you can give me some pictures of them )we have to release for lifting up the engine? I am sorry for this additional question, but I really dread to jack up the engine because I am not sure all the bolts are loose enough. Thanks again.

 

[2001LC]

Plenty of pic's and info in this thread. Go back to post #1 and read through.

I will add start by pump out all steering fluid (ATF).

Steering Flush & Cleaning

Cleaning power steering reservoir and flushing it's fluid. Keeps Vane pump and rack & pinion in top condition. These step will help you get, a better idea on how to. Power wash reservoir & hoses using a degreaser, before starting service. Makes for cleaner job. Repeat, once all done with...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[PabloCruise]

Thank you. How many bolts and their locations ( it would be perfect if you can give me some pictures of them )we have to release for lifting up the engine? I am sorry for this additional question, but I really dread to jack up the engine because I am not sure all the bolts are loose enough. Thanks again.

I posted pics in this very thread - start here: How To: Replace your own steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-own-steering-rack.560104/page-7#post-11260992

 

[zhloea]

I posted pics in this very thread - start here: How To: Replace your own steering rack - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/how-to-replace-your-own-steering-rack.560104/page-7#post-11260992

Thank you very much for that detailed brilliant post!
It means we only need to remove two bolts of the DS engine mount then we are good to jack up the engine from that side right?
I just curious why we don't need to release the PS side engine mount bolts, would it be damaged during the jacking up from the DS?

 

[zhloea]

I just learned from this thread that "we want to keep the steering wheel and the rack in center position". I assume we can tape the wheel in the cab or some other way to make sure all in the center when we start the work, but how do we make sure or adjust the position of the new rack? We adjust the new rack after install it or we need to pre-adjust the rack before the installation?

 

[Ayune]

I just learned from this thread that "we want to keep the steering wheel and the rack in center position". I assume we can tape the wheel in the cab or some other way to make sure all in the center when we start the work, but how do we make sure or adjust the position of the new rack? We adjust the new rack after install it or we need to pre-adjust the rack before the installation?

Keep the steering wheel near center in the cab to avoid damaging the clockspring (airbag wires). You'll get it perfectly straight at the end of the installation.

Install the rack any way you can. Sometimes it helps to push in one of the ends to make it shorter on one side. After the rack is installed, move the ends so they have equal length sticking out on both sides. That means the rack is centered and you can attach it to the steering shaft.

Most of this stuff is covered in the .pdf instructions in post #324. Please ask questions if you need more info on any of the steps.

 

[zhloea]

Keep the steering wheel near center in the cab to avoid damaging the clockspring (airbag wires). You'll get it perfectly straight at the end of the installation.

Install the rack any way you can. Sometimes it helps to push in one of the ends to make it shorter on one side. After the rack is installed, move the ends so they have equal length sticking out on both sides. That means the rack is centered and you can attach it to the steering shaft.

Most of this stuff is covered in the .pdf instructions in post #324. Please ask questions if you need more info on any of the steps.

That is fantastic! I am sorry I have a dumb question about "move the ends so they have equal length sticking out on both sides", do we need use any tool to move the ends, or just hand pulling the ends to whatever position we need?