How To: Replace your own steering rack (3 Viewers)

[Ayune]

Yes airbag light on and horn not working. Something in the steering column. Just wondering if anyone has had the same issue. Thanks

Oh man, sounds like you may have busted the spiral cable unit behind your steering wheel. Did you rotate the steering wheel lots while you had it disconnected from the rack? You have only 2.5 turns in either direction before you break the gizmo.

Not sure what series/year Cruiser you have, but a 100-series aftermarket part can be had for ~$40. P/N is 84306-12070 for 1998-2003.

 

[jeffsclan]

Thanks so much! I not really sure how it got turned. I did have lots of help, kinda of a circus. I did have to disconnect the steering shaft and re-center it after it was all said and done. Looking back and after finding this thread I would have done things a lot better.

 

[BudgetLC]

Not sure what series/year Cruiser you have, but a 100-series aftermarket part can be had for ~$40. P/N is 84306-12070 for 1998-2003.

I haven't looked at the Land Cruiser spiral cable (clock spring) but when I was researching replacing the one in my Prius, the aftermarket ones were problematic. A fairly large percent failed after a year or two. The earlier 100-series Land Cruisers probably don't have as many wires to fail as the later years do so might not have as many issues. In the end, I spent the extra bucks and went with OEM on my Prius just to save the hassle of doing the job over.

 

[jeffsclan]

I hope it’s ok. I ordered the aftermarket one as the OEM is over $300

 

[Rolocado]

I have a spare spiral cable assembly i got from a wrecking yard if anyone needs one

 

[Ayune]

I haven't looked at the Land Cruiser spiral cable (clock spring) but when I was researching replacing the one in my Prius, the aftermarket ones were problematic. A fairly large percent failed after a year or two. The earlier 100-series Land Cruisers probably don't have as many wires to fail as the later years do so might not have as many issues. In the end, I spent the extra bucks and went with OEM on my Prius just to save the hassle of doing the job over.

Yeah, I usually wouldn't consider buying or recommending an aftermarket part for our rigs since OEM got us to where we are today. But when I checked the price difference I saw 10x the price! Pulling the steering wheel isn't looking so difficult now.

 

[Rolocado]

Not something I'd necessarily buy aftermarket considering it's what controls the airbag....

 

[jeffsclan]

I have a spare spiral cable assembly i got from a wrecking yard if anyone needs one

Thanks for the offer. I already ordered the cheap one. I’ll check it out when it shows up.

 

[BorderCruiser]

Thanks everyone for this thread and all the extra advice. Like most here, I would have had a much more frustrating day without it.

One question though, is there a trick to getting the steering shaft coupling all the way down on the new unit output shaft?

I did have some trouble separating it initially. I had to wedge a prybar in the gap and then tap it apart with a drift. I've been able to get it halfway down, but the coupling doesn't seem to want to jump the gap for the through bolt and go home.

After this I just need to refill fluids and check for leaks. And alignment of course...

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Thanks everyone for this thread and all the extra advice. Like most here, I would have had a much more frustrating day without it.

One question though, is there a trick to getting the steering shaft coupling all the way down on the new unit output shaft?

I did have some trouble separating it initially. I had to wedge a prybar in the gap and then tap it apart with a drift. I've been able to get it halfway down, but the coupling doesn't seem to want to jump the gap for the through bolt and go home.

After this I just need to refill fluids and check for leaks. And alignment of course...

I think I got some lube in there on mine, I seem to remember needing to get the upper coupler loose so that I could get the lower couple on all the way

 

[BorderCruiser]

I think I got some lube in there on mine, I seem to remember needing to get the upper coupler loose so that I could get the lower couple on all the way

Thank you Somebosyelse5.

I'm sorry I forgot to mention that I did wire brush the inner splines with a gun barrel brush and put some anti-seize in there to slick it up.

 

[PabloCruise]

Thank you Somebosyelse5.

I'm sorry I forgot to mention that I did wire brush the inner splines with a gun barrel brush and put some anti-seize in there to slick it up.

That is all I did for mine, she slid right on...

 

[BorderCruiser]

Try as I might I still couldn't persuade the coupler to slide into the rack output. So I went topside and removed the 2 bolts from the top coupler at the firewall.

Voila! It slid home like butter! Now, I figured out that the lower bolt has a shaft grove it has to fit between, but the top bolt is free floating on the spline and can be tightened anywhere.

I'm guessing all my wedging, prying and tapping pushed the connector shaft up the splines toward the firewall with the bolts tightened allowing me to remove it from the old rack. When it came time to slide down, I couldn't get enough muscle on it to slide it down while bolted.

I'm very thankful nothing broke on me!

So for future home mechanics, it might be worth your while to not only unbolt the coupler at the rack output, but also remove the bolt closest the firewall at the top of the shaft allowing free motion.

Mine is a southern truck so no rust or corrosion to speak of, which is why I was so baffled at the difficulty I was having. I'm sure I missed this tidbit of advice in the thread or everyone else is smart enough to think of doing this in the first place but thought I'd post my findings to help the next diy'er.

Thank you again to all who've contributed to this thread.

 

[Rigger]

This is a great thread. Thanks to all for the info.

 

[TicoCafe]

This is a great thread... thanks everyone for all the good info.

I wanted to contribute by compiling a list Part Numbers PN for a 2005 Land Cruiser if you decide to change your steering rack, Pump and hoses.

Can someone verify PN as i had a use a combination of Toyota Parts website and ToyoDIY.com


1x 44250-60100, Steering Gear (the rack with included Outer Tie Rods): $772
2x 90171-16006, Nut Castle for Tie Rod: $1.19
2x 90252-04003, Outer Tie Rod Cotter Pin: $0.61

2x 90105-A0329, Gear Assembly Bolt (rack mounting): $5.09
2x 90178-14003, Nut Flange (rack mounting): $1.47
2x 94622-41400, Gear Assembly Washer (rack mounting): $1.57

1x 44327-30030, Pressure Hose Gasket (Lower by Steering Rack)
1x 44327-30040, Pressure Hose Gasket (Upper by Power Steering Pump)
1x 44410-60593, Power Steering Pressure Hose - $364.08

1x 44310-60390, Power Steering Pump: $274

 

[re_guderian]

Update, I found the aftermarket hose from Sunsong on e-Bay, PN 3402991. It came yesterday and I put in this morning, pic of the new hose below. It seems to be of good workmanship and had all the right bends in all the right places and fit with no problems. Best of all, it cost me 35 bucks...hopefully it lasts a good long time. Here's a pic of it as received.

......replacement hoses from Rock Auto. I went with the Sunsong lines, others have used these on the forum. The lines showed up and were honestly good quality. Everything lined up and works great, I couldn't justify spending another $600 on new OEM lines.

The 03+ line won't fit in terms of length... its supposed to make a loop through an oil cooler first. I bought the Sunsong 1998-2002 version and it fits very nicely as a replacement... just installed it a few days ago. Steering feels new after an alignment... I was way out of spec.

y'all still happy with the Sunsong PS lines from RockAuto/Ebay? About to pull the trigger on some...

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

y'all still happy with the Sunsong PS lines from RockAuto/Ebay? About to pull the trigger on some...

Still working fine... I bought mine from RockAuto. I recommend them.

 

[Roosevelt T]

You guys buying brand new OEM or a reman?

Looks like reman's are pretty reasonably priced.

 

[87warrior]

You guys buying brand new OEM or a reman?

Looks like reman's are pretty reasonably priced.

New Toyota rack for me. It has been great. Going on 55k miles since I shoved it in

 

[Roosevelt T]

New Toyota rack for me. It has been great. Going on 55k miles since I shoved it in

Thanks!

Looks like @Ayune has awesome instructions and a parts list I didn't see until I went back a page and the OEM rack is less than 500, which I'll go for all day! At 800+, I'd look at a reman, haha!