How To: Replace your own steering rack
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Kudos Timmy. Nice to see a puller used on TRE. So many, show the very wrong way of using BFH to beating off TRE & ball joints.
I'll offer a few tip to make job a bit faster if you like?
BTW:
These paint marks are not yet lined up. But you can see how they can be. When lined up with inner TRE end out about same distance. R&P is center.
Warning:
The 30-07 LX470, has VRGS (Variable gear ratio steering). Lexus has a TBS out on the snap ring recall. In the TSB procedure, it warns: "Do not pound upperward in direction steering wheel, on intermediate shaft(s)". Doing so can damage the VGRS actuator (Number 1 intermediate shaft). It is a common practice in commercial shops (dealerships & INDY). To break free the the lower pinch clamp from input shaft of pinion. Using air hammer chisel, pounding upward in direction steering wheel. Doing so, they are damaging the VGRS actuator. Which is a $3,000 part.
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Love the video Tim!
Makes it not look quite as daunting as I was working it up in my head. I'll be doing the Doug Thorley headers and motor mounts while I'm in there, just waiting for it to cool down a bit in Texas.
How is BFH wrong if it works (meaning reverse the castle nut, and end not too seized on)?
. I use both methods, depending on the situation.
Measured the power steering temp with an infrared of the return line on a trail ride with a buddy in his Hundy and was getting 30 degrees cooler with the cooler.
On the trail, no puller. Do whatever it takes to get back on the road and home, within reason. Correct any damage, later, when back in shop.How is BFH wrong if it works (meaning reverse the castle nut, and end not too seized on)?
In the shop, use a puller always.
Why a puller and not BFH:
- BFH damages knuckle. By warping surface ball joint boot rides on. This allow contaminates into ball joint. Results in premature failure.
- Also, A misguided blow, happens often when BFH used. Best case boot gets a hole and we reboot. Worst case BFH blow damages ball joint.
The upper ball joint (UBJ) is easiest to use a puller, since brake dust shield, is not in the way. Knuckle at UBJ, fairs the best, when beat on w/BFH. Due to a nub right where blows hit. But it also where I've found new boots, but bad UBJ. UBJ don't often go bad. Especially when rebooted. So why do I find some bad, w/new boots. Peeling boot reveals, BFH blow damage.
You can see the outer ring impression, which is impression from boot. Note the warpage from BFH blows. This warpage, result in lifting boot seal on both sides of warpage. Contaminations, like water and sand, can now enter boot at the two points at side of warpage.
Also notice the pits. This was due to rust, which can't happen. Unless water enters boot area, which it did at warpage caused by BFH. Boot did not have holes or tears.
There's a video around, by well known shop in mud. It's on a "how to remove knuckle". A BFH is being used on LBJ. Bang bang bang bang, for about a minutes. Video cuts away. Later video show knuckle off. With a comment: Yeah we had a little trouble with that LBJ releasing. "No S**T". Video, didn't show damaged knuckle., which it surely was. Any guess as to how long a life that LBJ has, not much!
"First rule, do no harm"
- BFH, do harm, period.
- Pullers don't do harm, when used properly. I do use press cups, between puller and BJ shafts threaded end. Which center, and protect shaft end (threads) and press tool end. I leave nut on, threaded out to end of shaft. But leave shaft end proud of nut, just a hair. Never do I damage threads. I can assure, I've pulled some seriously sized on BJ, without damaging them or knuckle. UBJ are never very difficult, LBJ so so, TRE can be the real bear.
I ground the opening, of this JTC Ball Joint Separator, just a tad larger. For fitment on our TRE. I can also used on, UBJ and LBJ brake dust shield on. This with a press plate is very small & light to carry on the trail.
See the press cup, in use here.
My daily $15 Evertough 67025 puller, used for over 10 years. Brake dust shield off, for TRE & LBJ. Press plate not shown, but I do use one.
My heavy OTC, beast of a puller. See press cup, castle nut with brake dust shield on. I use my 3/4" breaker bar, with the beast. A very powerful combo.
I'll add. I do sometimes use my long barrel air hammer even a 5lb sledge hammer. On TRE's, I'm replacing. I'll beat straight down on stud of TRE, no castle nut. If TRE not frozen on, it will drop right out. But, if a few blow doesn't do it. I get a puller. I don't just keep pounding.
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Good info and it should.
But, where all other condition equal:
Miles on fluid.
Type brand of fluid. Syn runs cooler.
Condition of reservoir (clean screen)
Same OEM R&P, with similar miles.
Agree 100%. Makes the job so much smoother also.
Heres some others I compiled before tackling the job. The dust shield makes it tricky, but these pullers are small enough that they can (or should) fit.
I know these work:
AutoZone 57022 loaner (what I used)
OTC 6296 puller (what I saw work on Timmy YouTube vid)
What I suspect will also work based on dimensions:
O'Reilly's 67028 loaner
Duralast 84-005
Great info @2001LC - thanks for taking the time to write it out!
I'll add a note on outer TRE lock nut.
If planning on reusing outer TRE. Make sure to use two wrenches, to break free lock nut. One on TRE, the other on lock nut.
Don't use the TRE itself, to hold TRE. While only one wrench used, to break free lock nut (on lock nut). This damages the TRE ball/cup. Sometime even, busting the shaft of TRE off.
If replacing TRE. Then we don't care if TRE damaged. Sure use one wrench.
TRE usually, last as long as R&P.
They fail prematurely for reasons:
If planning on reusing outer TRE. Make sure to use two wrenches, to break free lock nut. One on TRE, the other on lock nut.
Don't use the TRE itself, to hold TRE. While only one wrench used, to break free lock nut (on lock nut). This damages the TRE ball/cup. Sometime even, busting the shaft of TRE off.
If replacing TRE. Then we don't care if TRE damaged. Sure use one wrench.
TRE usually, last as long as R&P.
They fail prematurely for reasons:
- Alignment tech, uses only one wrench to set toe. Damaging TRE ball/cup.
- Misguided blow, W/BFH. Damaging boot.
- BFH knuckle warpage of seal surface area.
- Stick, puncture/rip boot.
- Excessive play in front end. i.e. Bad R&P bushing, loose wheel bearing, bad ball joints.
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I put together a write up using @Ayune's as a template, added photos from this thread, and tweaked some steps and torque values from the '98 FSM. Feel free to use at your own discretion. I'm not a pro like some of the veterans on here, but I recently finished this job using these steps. Please let me know if you see any mistakes and I can add corrections to the document.
I also put together quick 1 minute instruction vids on my Instagram in a 5 part series summarizing my process. Please check it out if you're on Instagram. Thanks everyone for their contributions on here.
www.instagram.com
I also put together quick 1 minute instruction vids on my Instagram in a 5 part series summarizing my process. Please check it out if you're on Instagram. Thanks everyone for their contributions on here.
(@silverlandcruiser) • Instagram photos and videos
3,077 Followers, 913 Following, 109 Posts - See Instagram photos and videos from (@silverlandcruiser)
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Anyone happen to have the correct bushing (steering rack housing grommet) for a 2003-2007 Land Cruiser?
I've search the thread and it seems like there are different GROMMETS for LX/LC and different ones for ‘99-‘02 vs. ‘03-‘07. Furthermore, the parts pages don’t confirm that part# 45517-60010 fits my 2005.
Please advise and thanks.
I've search the thread and it seems like there are different GROMMETS for LX/LC and different ones for ‘99-‘02 vs. ‘03-‘07. Furthermore, the parts pages don’t confirm that part# 45517-60010 fits my 2005.
Please advise and thanks.
No grommet after 2002.
98-02 has grommet on RH and two mounting bushing (pressed in rack housing) on LH
03-07, just has mounting bushing. one RH and one LH side.
Which, I assume, are included with rack? So I don’t need to buy a separate bushing/grommet at all?
I think the only major thing i did different from you @Timmy65 was not to lock the steering wheel in place. I did at first, but then after a discussion with my local(ish) toyota mechanic Rocket City Cruisers - I decided to center the rack, center the steering wheel, and then stab it in. The theory being there is enough margin built in with the steering stops that it doesn't really matter. Mine seems to be centered and working great so far.
All in all, this wasn't as bad of a job as many describe, but I suppose it depends on whether or not you have the right tools, etc.
All in all, this wasn't as bad of a job as many describe, but I suppose it depends on whether or not you have the right tools, etc.
Warning. With VGRS systems (03-07 LX470). While separating or installing, R&P from intermediate shaft u-joint. Never pound R&P or intermediate shaft, in direction of steering wheel. Doing so can damage VGRS actuator (intermediate shaft #1, a $3K part).
Centering VGRS steering wheel via tech stream:
In the 03-07 LX470, which has VRGS. Centering steering wheel close (~10 degrees), is all that is needed. We first center R&P, by having inner tie rod (TE) out equal distance from rack housing. We then align the factory color paint marks, that come on the pinion input shaft, boot and pinion housing to dead-center R&P. The center steering wheel and slip on R&P input shaft on to intermediate shaft, before bolting R&P down. Then, place bolts in place only snugging. Check to see paint marks line up and steering wheel close to center. Once center well enough, torque bolt down. Best that, outer TRE have equal distance/thread count, out from inner TRE. Which should have been and mark/threads counted as such, before dissemble. Then go into tech stream and center steering wheel as last install step, through VGRS.
VGRS steering wheel centering. Is best done, on alignment rack. Once tech has toe set and wheels dead on. But unfortunately very few alignment Tech's, know how to properly centering and do any calibration procedures with VGRS systems in tech stream. Or even know that we can. I've found it's best to tell alignment tech: Do not be concerned with centering steering wheel. Just get TRE thread count, as close to equal, when setting toe. I'll take care of center steering wheel later if need be.
If you then go drive and find, not centered as well you like. Go back into tech stream, and correct.
When dealing with non VGRS. The LC or 98-02 LX. We want again to have TRE thread count, about the same. We center R&P, by having inner tie rod (TE) out equal distance from rack housing. We then use the factory color paint marks on pinion input shaft, boot and pinion housing, to dead-center R&P. Center steering wheel. Slip on R&P input shaft on to intermediate shaft, before installing bolts R&P. Then place bolt in only snugging. Check to see paint marks line up and steering wheel centered. Once center, torque bolt down. If off ~5 degrees (about one tooth) or less. Alignment shop will adjust TRE to center steering wheel.
We can also remove steering and center, which I've never needed to do. If you do. Disconnect battery first.
Note: Always start with steering wheel centered. Note position, so you can return to same. Never turn steering more than 180 degrees in either direction and or get disoriented as to reversing direction on way back to center. Turning wheel to far, when knuckle stops can't stop it form turning. Can break clock spring.
Great info. Mine is a 98 and I followed the procedure you stated, except i can't remember if I lined up the factory paint marks, but I did center the TREs by measuring (so that should be the same, i think). I havent taken to alignment yet, and have only driven around the block more or less, but seems fine.
Started tackling this after work this week and these are my notes through removal far that may be beneficial, especially to those with older trucks (IE rust) I apologize if any of this is redundant:
- Soak everything that needs to be removed on the steering shaft days before. I was fortunate enough to have my truck in my garage for 48 hours before starting on this. I was most terrified of breaking one of those bolts, once I got those out it was smooth sailing
- Jacking up the engine via removing bolts on the driver side motor mounts make this job substantially easier.
-PLAN ON NOT REUSING YOUR RETURN LINE! I thought I could skirt around this and took great care when removing and absolutely destroyed the line despite breaking the fitting free with a crows foot flare nut 17MM. I went to our Local Tubes and Hoses and had a piece made for under $50 that connects to the soft line from from the pump. The mentioned line from RockAuto is currently available, though about $136 shipped.
-Remove the drives side inner/outer tie rod if possible, you do not need to remove the passenger side. I found monkeying the actual rack out the easiest part, though having cut off the inner as close as I could to the rack on the drivers side made this very easy.
-Move your fan shroud up, you will have enough room without disconnecting upper or lower radiator hoses, though you will need to remove overflow reservoir and brackets for AC lines
-I had to bend back the oil drip pan on the oil filter housing, but did not have to remove the housing itself.
-Rack is easy to remove with two bolts on steering shaft near the fire wall removed with the shaft still attached to the rack. I did get a pry bar in there to open it up a little bit and without much force it came off
-If you are reusing your jam nuts on the inner TRE, crack them free before undoing anything else. I neglected to do this and will likely just buy two new ones (90170-20003) if I can find them local.
I am about four hours into removal in totality including getting the truck in the air, cleaning the garage after work, and separating the shaft from the rack once removed. It's really not that bad. Doing headers on one of these trucks (especially with rust) is genuinely 5x harder than this. My truck is probable the worst example of one of these that you could do this on in terms of ease due to rust, and I made it work. I have an new OEM rack from Olathe that will be going in after work this evening, its was $650ish before shipping, I also got new 555 outer TREs from Kurt.
Will post again once rack is in and job is complete
- Soak everything that needs to be removed on the steering shaft days before. I was fortunate enough to have my truck in my garage for 48 hours before starting on this. I was most terrified of breaking one of those bolts, once I got those out it was smooth sailing
- Jacking up the engine via removing bolts on the driver side motor mounts make this job substantially easier.
-PLAN ON NOT REUSING YOUR RETURN LINE! I thought I could skirt around this and took great care when removing and absolutely destroyed the line despite breaking the fitting free with a crows foot flare nut 17MM. I went to our Local Tubes and Hoses and had a piece made for under $50 that connects to the soft line from from the pump. The mentioned line from RockAuto is currently available, though about $136 shipped.
-Remove the drives side inner/outer tie rod if possible, you do not need to remove the passenger side. I found monkeying the actual rack out the easiest part, though having cut off the inner as close as I could to the rack on the drivers side made this very easy.
-Move your fan shroud up, you will have enough room without disconnecting upper or lower radiator hoses, though you will need to remove overflow reservoir and brackets for AC lines
-I had to bend back the oil drip pan on the oil filter housing, but did not have to remove the housing itself.
-Rack is easy to remove with two bolts on steering shaft near the fire wall removed with the shaft still attached to the rack. I did get a pry bar in there to open it up a little bit and without much force it came off
-If you are reusing your jam nuts on the inner TRE, crack them free before undoing anything else. I neglected to do this and will likely just buy two new ones (90170-20003) if I can find them local.
I am about four hours into removal in totality including getting the truck in the air, cleaning the garage after work, and separating the shaft from the rack once removed. It's really not that bad. Doing headers on one of these trucks (especially with rust) is genuinely 5x harder than this. My truck is probable the worst example of one of these that you could do this on in terms of ease due to rust, and I made it work. I have an new OEM rack from Olathe that will be going in after work this evening, its was $650ish before shipping, I also got new 555 outer TREs from Kurt.
Will post again once rack is in and job is complete