PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I could only tap on the edge of it. So you would not need a pickle fork, that is probably what was lying closest to me at the moment. You could use a long screwdriver/prybar. I think I was inboard of the column...
How To: Replace your own steering rack
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I could only tap on the edge of it. So you would not need a pickle fork, that is probably what was lying closest to me at the moment. You could use a long screwdriver/prybar. I think I was inboard of the column...
I removed the bottom input shaft bolt, loosened the 2 bolts on the linkage near the firewall, and then tapped back the steering shaft away from the rack with a long prybar and a big hammer
I ended up having to remove the rack with the steering shaft still attached, then wailed on it pretty hard to get it to come off.
Now another issue - when I turn left going faster than anything above parking lot speeds, traction control comes on. The steering wheel is about 15* off center to the right, which is easy enough to fix, but is this also the cause of traction control coming on? Sorta like it senses that its turning harder left than the steering wheel is turned.
Now another issue - when I turn left going faster than anything above parking lot speeds, traction control comes on. The steering wheel is about 15* off center to the right, which is easy enough to fix, but is this also the cause of traction control coming on? Sorta like it senses that its turning harder left than the steering wheel is turned.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Zero Point Energy
Figured it out - toe was out of spec on passenger side. Zero Point Calibration wasn't needed.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
Same boat here. Curious about moving the steering wheel a spline or two over (I think the FSM makes note of this) or disconnecting the joint just fwd of the firewall and re-indexing there. I think only a spline or two won't make enough of a difference for it to bother me... what do you guys think?
I just want to throw this out there for anyone looking at doing this... LIFT THE ENGINE. Follow @PabloCruise 's instructions and it'll be a lot easier than you anticipated.
Somebodyelse5
16124-75030
For anyone who needs to recenter the rack and steering column splines, I can confirm that it IS possible to remove the shaft without removing the rack. Remove all 3 bolts from the column in the engine compartment (two at the coupler fwd of the firewall, one at the rack). Then tap the shaft up with a long screw driver and a hammer. Easy peasy. If your steeringwheel isn't straight, but your wheels are, have someone hold the wheel before you separate the shaft, the steering wheel will spin pretty easily.
Ladies & gentlemen, I replaced my steering rack & outer TREs yesterday (1998 LC). Before starting I researched and compiled all the knowledge I could find into a step-by-step checklist. I referenced this list and added corrections, updates, and helpful tips throughout the process. For example: don’t shear off the oil sender wire 
; leave the razor-sharp hose bracket off until the end; center steering wheel while rack is still loose, etc. I’d like to share this step-by-step procedure in hopes of helping others successfully tackle this daunting yet do-able repair with confidence. PS: It took me 6-1/2 hours...
Download the instructions via .pdf file HERE.
; leave the razor-sharp hose bracket off until the end; center steering wheel while rack is still loose, etc. I’d like to share this step-by-step procedure in hopes of helping others successfully tackle this daunting yet do-able repair with confidence. PS: It took me 6-1/2 hours...Download the instructions via .pdf file HERE.
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Ladies & gentlemen, I replaced my steering rack & outer TREs yesterday (1998 LC). Before starting I researched and compiled all the knowledge I could find into a step-by-step checklist. I referenced this list and added corrections, updates, and helpful tips throughout the process. For example: don’t shear off the oil sender wire
View attachment 1710636
For my 1998 LC I purchased the following parts:
1x 44250-60050, Steering Gear (the rack)
1x 45046-69195, Outer Tie Rod End (RH)
1x 45047-69100, Outer Tie Rod End (LH)
2x 90105-14121, Bolt, Washer Based (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90101-14021, Steering Arm Bolt (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90178-14003, Nut, Flange (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90560-15018, Spacer (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90170-20003, Nut, Hexagon (TRE jam nuts)
1x 44327-30030, Pressure Hose Gasket (single-use part)
1x Sunsong 3402991 Return Hose (just in case old one is stubborn)
We all know physically removing the rack is difficult, so I won’t dwell on that step. But for me the most frustrating parts were 1) separating the TREs from the steering knuckles (rotor shield is in the way), and 2) centering the steering wheel & shaft. I believe I found easy solutions for both, outlined in the instructions.
Enjoy, and please let me know of any corrections.
Step-by-step procedure:
¨ Open hood
¨ Remove PS reservoir cap
¨ Remove steering shaft coupling screw at rack. Steering wheel may need to be turned for access (12mm on long extensions)
¨ Turn steering wheel to loosen steering shaft and rack input shaft
¨ Straighten & tie off steering wheel
¨ Break free lug nuts (22mm)
¨ Raise vehicle onto jack stands
¨ Remove wheels
¨ Remove skid plates (12mm)
¨ Disconnect DS engine mount. (14mm top & bottom. Note: Front nut is welded to frame)
¨ Jack up engine ~2" at rear bell housing, insert wooden spacer block, lower engine
¨ Remove oil filter, catch fluid
¨ Disconnect connector from oil pressure sender. Tuck wire aside.
¨ Take pics/measurements/count TRE threads showing
¨ Back off TRE jam nuts (25 & 27mm)
Easy TRE separation procedure:
¨ Remove TRE cotter pins & nuts at steering knuckles (19mm)
¨ Remove front knuckle mounting screws from each side (17mm)
¨ Loosen rear knuckle mounting screws on each side (17mm). Rotate knuckles as far upwards as ABS sensor wires will allow.
¨ Tighten rear knuckle screws to prevent movement of knuckle.
¨ Separate TREs from knuckles using ball joint puller
¨ Loosen rear knuckle screws, rotate knuckles downward and re-insert front knuckle screws.
¨ Tighten all four knuckle screws (17mm, 108 ft·lb)
¨ Gently remove plastic clip from PS & tranny cooler lines
¨ Remove front (HP) line from rack, catch fluid (17mm)
¨ Remove top clamp from hose bracket (10mm)
¨ Remove hose bracket from rack (12mm)
¨ Hang front line down to drain fluid
¨ Remove two mounting bolts thru small bushings (19mm top & bottom)
¨ Remove two bolts from large bushing bracket (19mm, use flex head & deep socket on rear bolt)
¨ Remove rear (return) line, catch fluid (17mm). Cut it off if stubborn & you have replacement.
¨ Move lines forward & tie up to frame cross member under radiator
¨ Adjust rack so DS is short as possible
¨ Remove old rack
¨ Wipe down & clean rack mounting surface on frame
¨ Adjust new rack so DS is short as possible
¨ Insert new rack. Position so bushing holes align with frame holes.
¨ Lube & install large bushing & bracket
¨ Install two mounting bolts on large bushing bracket (19mm, 89 ft·lb)
Steering wheel centering procedure:
¨ Center rack ends with tape measure (~10-7/16 from inner boot edge each side)
¨ Verify steering wheel straight
¨ Lube rack input shaft splines
¨ Reaching down inside engine compartment, slide steering shaft coupling onto rack input shaft. Rack pivots on large bushing and can be moved fore & aft to allow shaft mating.
¨ Turn steering wheel fully to the left, then fully to the right. Steering wheel should have same amount of rotation in both directions. If not: reach down inside engine compartment with both hands. Grab rack input housing with left hand and steering shaft coupling with right hand. Gently move rack forward until shafts separate, then carefully rotate the steering shaft in the correct direction one or two splines. Move the rack rearward with your left hand to re-mate the shafts. Re-check rotation at steering wheel and repeat process until rotation is same in both directions. Don't skimp.
¨ Install two rack mounting bolts w/new top spacers & nuts (19mm, 89 ft·lb)
¨ Connect rear (return) line (17mm, 32 ft·lb)
¨ Connect front (HP) line w/new gasket (17mm, 31 ft·lb)
¨ Install hose bracket to rack (12mm, 13 ft·lb)
¨ Install top clamp on hose bracket (10mm)
¨ Gently install plastic clip on PS & tranny cooler lines
¨ Thread on new TRE jam nuts
¨ Thread on new TREs, match showing threads pics/measurements/count
¨ Install TREs to knuckles (19mm, 53 ft·lb)
¨ Install cotter pins on TRE knuckle nuts
¨ Tighten TRE jam nuts (25 & 27mm, 41 ft·lb)
¨ Install oil filter (hand tight + additional 3/4 turn)
¨ Reconnect oil pressure sender wire.
¨ Remove, clean, & reinstall PS reservoir
¨ Install steering shaft coupling screw from above engine compartment. Steering wheel may need to be turned for access (12mm on long extensions, 25 ft·lb)
¨ Jack up engine, remove spacer block, lower engine
¨ Install engine mount bolts (14mm, 22 ft·lb)
¨ Add ~1 qt. ATF (Dexron type) to PS reservoir
¨ Add oil as required
¨ Start vehicle, check for leaks. PS pump will groan until system is purged.
¨ Install skid plates (12mm)
¨ Mount wheels, hand tighten lug nuts
¨ Lower vehicle from jack stands
¨ Torque lug nuts (22mm, 100 ft·lb)
¨ Test drive
¨ Get alignment
View attachment 1710635
Now that is the perfect list...the a list of everything to get including all the single use items. Someone needs to put this in the facts! Awesome Job!
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
I will say this - make sure your plastic clips that hold the low pressure return line in place are good.
Saturday I noticed a wet spot under the LX. The rubber portion of the return line had been rubbing against the PS pump pulley and started leaking.
Keep everything routed correctly!
I also went in and lubed the poly bushing that mounts the pass side of the rack - no fun!
Saturday I noticed a wet spot under the LX. The rubber portion of the return line had been rubbing against the PS pump pulley and started leaking.
Keep everything routed correctly!
I also went in and lubed the poly bushing that mounts the pass side of the rack - no fun!
Ladies & gentlemen, I replaced my steering rack & outer TREs yesterday (1998 LC). Before starting I researched and compiled all the knowledge I could find into a step-by-step checklist. I referenced this list and added corrections, updates, and helpful tips throughout the process. For example: don’t shear off the oil sender wire
View attachment 1710636
For my 1998 LC I purchased the following parts:
1x 44250-60050, Steering Gear (the rack)
1x 45046-69195, Outer Tie Rod End (RH)
1x 45047-69100, Outer Tie Rod End (LH)
2x 90105-14121, Bolt, Washer Based (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90101-14021, Steering Arm Bolt (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90178-14003, Nut, Flange (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90560-15018, Spacer (rack mounting, single-use part)
2x 90170-20003, Nut, Hexagon (TRE jam nuts)
1x 44327-30030, Pressure Hose Gasket (single-use part)
1x 45517-60010, Large Rubber Bushing (upgrade to poly if desired)
1x Sunsong 3402991 Return Hose (just in case old one is stubborn)
We all know physically removing the rack is difficult, so I won’t dwell on that step. For me the most frustrating parts were 1) separating the TREs from the steering knuckles (rotor shield is in the way), and 2) centering the steering wheel & shaft. I believe I found easy solutions for both, outlined in the instructions.
Enjoy, and please let me know of any corrections.
Step-by-step procedure:
¨ Open hood
¨ Remove PS reservoir cap
¨ Remove steering shaft coupling screw at rack. Steering wheel may need to be turned for access (12mm on long extensions)
¨ Jiggle steering wheel to loosen steering shaft and rack input shaft coupling
¨ Straighten & tie off steering wheel
¨ Break free lug nuts (22mm)
¨ Raise vehicle onto jack stands
¨ Remove wheels
¨ Remove skid plates (12mm)
¨ Disconnect DS engine mount. (14mm top & bottom. Note: Front nut is welded to frame)
¨ Jack up engine ~2" at rear bell housing, insert spacer block, lower engine
¨ Remove oil filter, catch fluid
¨ Disconnect oil pressure sender wire, tuck aside.
¨ Take pics/measurements/count TRE threads showing
¨ Back off TRE jam nuts (25 & 27mm)
Easy TRE separation procedure:
¨ Remove TRE cotter pins & nuts at steering knuckles (19mm)
¨ Remove front knuckle mounting screws from each side (17mm)
¨ Loosen rear knuckle mounting screws on each side (17mm). Rotate knuckles as far upwards as ABS sensor wires will allow.
¨ Snug down rear knuckle screws enough to prevent further rotation of knuckle.
¨ Separate TREs from knuckles using ball joint puller
¨ Loosen rear knuckle screws, rotate knuckles downward and re-insert front knuckle screws.
¨ Tighten all four knuckle screws (17mm, 108 ft·lb)
¨ Gently remove plastic clip from PS & tranny cooler lines
¨ Remove top clamp from hose bracket (10mm)
¨ Remove hose bracket from rack (12mm)
¨ Disconnect front (HP) line from rack, hang down & catch fluid (17mm)
¨ Remove two mounting bolts thru small bushings (19mm top & bottom)
¨ Remove two bolts from large bushing bracket (19mm, use flex head & deep socket on rear bolt)
¨ Disconnect rear (return) line, hang down & catch fluid (17mm). Cut it off if stubborn & you have replacement.
¨ Move lines forward & tie up to frame cross member under radiator. Wrap shop towel around ends to keep tasty ATF from dripping on your face.
¨ Adjust rack so DS is short as possible
¨ Remove old rack
¨ Wipe down & clean rack mounting surface on frame
¨ Adjust new rack so DS is short as possible
¨ Insert new rack. Position so bushing holes align with frame holes.
¨ Lube & install large bushing & bracket
¨ Install two mounting bolts on large bushing bracket (19mm, 89 ft·lb)
Steering wheel centering procedure:
¨ Center rack ends with tape measure (~10-7/16 from inner boot edge each side)
¨ Verify steering wheel straight
¨ Lube rack input shaft splines
¨ Reaching down inside engine compartment, slide steering shaft coupling onto rack input shaft. Rack pivots on large bushing and can be moved fore & aft to allow shaft mating.
¨ Clean your hands. Turn steering wheel fully to the left, then fully to the right. Steering wheel should have same amount of rotation in both directions. If not: reach down inside engine compartment with both hands. Grab rack input housing with left hand and steering shaft coupling with right hand. Gently move rack forward until shafts separate, then carefully rotate the steering shaft in the correct direction one or two splines. Move the rack rearward with your left hand to re-mate the shafts. Re-check rotation at steering wheel and repeat process until rotation is same in both directions. Take your time, you'll get it right.
¨ Install two rack mounting bolts w/new top spacers & nuts (19mm, 89 ft·lb)
¨ Connect rear (return) line (17mm, 32 ft·lb)
¨ Connect front (HP) line w/new gasket (17mm, 31 ft·lb)
¨ Install hose bracket to rack (12mm, 13 ft·lb)
¨ Install top clamp on hose bracket (10mm)
¨ Gently install plastic clip on PS & tranny cooler lines
¨ Thread on new TRE jam nuts
¨ Thread on new TREs, match showing threads pics/measurements/count. Be sure to get LH/RH correct, they're not marked. The bends go rearward to clear the wheels when turned.
¨ Install TREs to knuckles (19mm, 53 ft·lb)
¨ Install cotter pins on TRE knuckle nuts
¨ Tighten TRE jam nuts (25 & 27mm, 41 ft·lb)
¨ Install oil filter (hand tight + additional 3/4 turn)
¨ Reconnect oil pressure sender wire.
¨ Remove, clean, & reinstall PS reservoir. Note: Brake cleaner not so good for plastics. Use a water-based, non-foaming engine degreaser that's says "safe for plastics." Blow out crap with compressed air if you can.
¨ Install steering shaft coupling screw from above engine compartment. Steering wheel may need to be turned for access (12mm on long extensions, 25 ft·lb)
¨ Jack up engine, remove spacer block, lower engine
¨ Install engine mount bolts & nut (14mm, 22 ft·lb)
¨ Add ~1 qt. ATF (Dexron type) to PS reservoir
¨ Add oil as required
¨ Start vehicle, check for leaks. PS pump will groan until system is purged.
¨ Install skid plates (12mm)
¨ Mount wheels, hand tighten lug nuts
¨ Lower vehicle from jack stands
¨ Torque lug nuts (22mm, 100 ft·lb)
¨ Test drive
¨ Get alignment
View attachment 1710635
Being that Ayune did a great job at this... I made a PDF with everything including the parts numbers Hyperlinked and discount codes to make it easier... Here it is, now v3 with changes by Ayune
Updated June 2019
The only thing that would make it better is if somone took a picture of each step!
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PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Yes, pictures of the TRE separation process described above would be the cat's pajamas...
I did take a couple pics while I was separating the TREs. This is the driver's side:
First pic: TRE cotter pin & castle nut are removed, but puller can't fit in between the knuckle and the rotor shield
. So I removed the front knuckle bolt and loosened the rear.Second pic: The knuckle has been rotated upwards a bit to allow the puller to fit and separate the TRE
. Note: ABS sensor has been removed out of caution, but it was not necessary. There's enough length to the wire to allow the knuckle to rotate up enough. Snug down the rear bolt after rotating the knuckle upwards to prevent accidental damage to the wire while wrangling the ball joint puller.
PabloCruise
SILVER Star
Perfect!
I had same problem - could not fit the puller between rotor shield.
I had same problem - could not fit the puller between rotor shield.
Wow, I wish I had found this two weeks ago. Great thread! For those of us that didn’t get the rack properly centered and broke the airbag wire thing, is that something that can be replaced at the home shop? Is it potentially dangerous because of the airbag?
The wire I broke was from the oil pressure sender, which is next to the oil filter. Here's a pic, the white wire came out of the orange grommet.
I'm not sure about any airbag wire, can you give more info or a pic? Is your airbag light on now?
FYI the parts needed to fix the oil sender wire are here: Toyota Oil Pressure Switch Connector 90980-11363
The housing is Toyota PN 90980-11363 and it's unclear if it comes from Toyota with the internal contact & grommet as a kit. I ordered one from a dealer and I got just the housing. The above link is a complete kit from an indie shop. Either way it's like $6.
