How To: Replace your own steering rack

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CanadianRockyCruiser said:
Still working fine... I bought mine from RockAuto. I recommend them.
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I agree now. I got the Sunsong installed yesterday. Functionality seems to be there. There's a few niggling things, like the center soft section on the bottom return line is a little too long and forces a slight bend in the hose, and the nut that attaches the return line to the rack is also really short compared to OEM, which just means the return line has to be attached first and removed last, but honestly, for $300 cheaper than the smart-shopper price for OEM, I'll take it, especially since it probably will never be changed again. Hopefully. I bought from Amazon, and shipping was stupid slow (~ a week from NJ), so Rock-Auto might be the more reliable source? If I ever have to do a rack again, I'd install new lines at the same time.
 
Thanks to everyone for the great info in this thread. Made this horrible job a bit more bearable. I'm following the detailed list given earlier in the thread, working outside my house with the vehicle on axle stands (in the middle of the UK winter). I already had the air-con condenser and radiator out for 'other work', so had a bit more room to work with. What I've learned so far with a RHD vehicle that may help others:

  • The rack can be manoevered out the front with the rear low pressure metal line still attached.
  • This can still be done with the intermediate shaft attached.
  • If not re-using the TREs, Mr Angry Grinder is your friend. Cut as close to the rack boots as possible.
  • Take your time and have beer handy.

My problem now is separating the intermediate shaft from the rack. I've soaked in PB blaster, heated with a blow torch, belted with the BFH and several pry bars.... not budging. Anyone have any 'special techniques' I've not tried?

Cheers

Scott
 
scottydj2 said:
My problem now is separating the intermediate shaft from the rack. I've soaked in PB blaster, heated with a blow torch, belted with the BFH and several pry bars.... not budging. Anyone have any 'special techniques' I've not tried?
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I had the same thing happen. I took the rack out, with the lower 1/2 of the intermediate shaft still stuck to the rack and it put up a fight coming apart. The answer was A LOT of heat/cool cycles with some penetrating lube (I used PB Blaster). It goes without saying, but make sure the bolt is removed the from splined part of the intermediate shaft.
 
scottydj2 said:
Thanks to everyone for the great info in this thread. Made this horrible job a bit more bearable. I'm following the detailed list given earlier in the thread, working outside my house with the vehicle on axle stands (in the middle of the UK winter). I already had the air-con condenser and radiator out for 'other work', so had a bit more room to work with. What I've learned so far with a RHD vehicle that may help others:

  • The rack can be manoevered out the front with the rear low pressure metal line still attached.
  • This can still be done with the intermediate shaft attached.
  • If not re-using the TREs, Mr Angry Grinder is your friend. Cut as close to the rack boots as possible.
  • Take your time and have beer handy.
My problem now is separating the intermediate shaft from the rack. I've soaked in PB blaster, heated with a blow torch, belted with the BFH and several pry bars.... not budging. Anyone have any 'special techniques' I've not tried?

Cheers

Scott
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I used a very long pry bar, the end will fit into the space between the rack and knuckle, and used a hammer. This allows the force to get as close to the splines as possible to break it loose. This worked for me.
 
scottydj2 said:
Thanks to everyone for the great info in this thread. Made this horrible job a bit more bearable. I'm following the detailed list given earlier in the thread, working outside my house with the vehicle on axle stands (in the middle of the UK winter). I already had the air-con condenser and radiator out for 'other work', so had a bit more room to work with. What I've learned so far with a RHD vehicle that may help others:

  • The rack can be manoevered out the front with the rear low pressure metal line still attached.
  • This can still be done with the intermediate shaft attached.
  • If not re-using the TREs, Mr Angry Grinder is your friend. Cut as close to the rack boots as possible.
  • Take your time and have beer handy.
My problem now is separating the intermediate shaft from the rack. I've soaked in PB blaster, heated with a blow torch, belted with the BFH and several pry bars.... not budging. Anyone have any 'special techniques' I've not tried?

Cheers

Scott
Click to expand...
Smallest pickle fork from autozone rental set worked best for me.
1905561
 
Bump for price check on any recent rack purchase leads in SE USA (Florida). THE LInk in the pdf doesn’t show an applied discount. 86 for shipping is steep. OTHERS mention people by familiar name in Atlanta?
 
New from Toyota or remanufactured? I got a reman off of Amazon: Detroit Axle Steering Rack for $265 shipped (03-07 rack). Same part sold from detroitaxle.com for $400. I've had it for a year with no problems. Lifetime warranty if you ship your old unit back with prepaid shipping label.
 
Thanks for the details @Ayune great list of step by step details! Got my new OEM rack in yesterday (545$ with High Desert Cruisers, MUD 25% discount). I removed tie rod ends with a few good whacks of a #5 sledge hammer, keep nuts on top of threads for more surface area to hammer and protect TRE threads if reusing. Also, I could only lift the engine 1.5 " from rear bell housing before vehicle started to lift off jack stands, so I used a floor jack and about an 18" long section of 2 or 3" abs plastic drain pipe to lift the engine from D.S. oil pan edge, where oil pan bolts are. Center pipe on jack pad and watch engine as it lifts slowly! This worked for me, rigs and people are different so use what technique works for you. this is not our daily driver so I am taking my time to do it right. if you have an issue, stop and rethink your technique. good luck everyone, and thank you to all who helped with this thread! and of course THANK YOU IH8MUD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Finally finished my rack install. Went with the amazon cheapo from BuyAutoParts. No leaks and turns much easier.

I did the engine lift method and still had a hell of a time getting the rack out. Cracked my fan shroud, I would take it out if I had to do the job again. I bought the poly bushings but already had the rack in and was tired of the battle since I redid the whole front end. If the cheapo fails I’ll rebuild my original one.
 
Best with rubber mounts IMHO. Poly to stiff and hard on ball joints and rack.

Someone should post in OP. You must remove fan shroud bolts. I'll bet many have busted and never noticed or posted!
 
I would also add to this, to have the steering wheel and wheels straight when you park it to begin the job. Use a ratchet strap or something to keep it straight and to protect the clock spring. Mine was off when I put it back together, despite not believing I moved the wheel and having someone hold it straight as I reconnected the column. Perhaps the rack was not centered when I installed I though, but securing the wheel would have made this obvious to rule out.
 
Just wanted to add a little bit to this. I have a 2000 100 series with the early style rack. I replaced the rack with a new toyota one and took it in for alignment. The tech called me back in the shop and showed me that the rack was moving left and right a bit and said something was wrong. He thought maybe I used an aftermarket rack or I had bad bushings or something. He set the toe but said that the play would result in poor performance and steering wheel position. After i got home I did some research and realized that it looks like toyota designed it that way, sure it will move the most sitting still on pavement but once you're driving there won't be as much force needed to turn so in theory the rack should center in the bushing. The factory pressed in bushings are not completely solid rubber and have 2 bumps around the outside so they have some give left to right. I think a lot of people think their bushings are shot because of the movement but it looks to be normal. I have some poly bushings I bought before I decided to replace the whole rack and may use them but I don't really want the extra feedback at the wheel. The poly bushings are pretty solid and would likely stop all the movement. I wish there was a solid rubber replacement bushing(no bumps) that would bridge the gap between to much movement and rigid or maybe you could spin the factory bushings 90 degrees so the bumps would align with the left and right movement. I've used poly in the past for body mounts and such and hated it. It may be ok for shocks and spring eyes on trucks used hard off-road but it sucks for isolation.
Also notice the torque spec differences between rack styles.
On the old style rack the 4 bolts holding the rack 74 ft lbs and the TREs 90 ft lbs
On the new style rack the 2 bolts holding the rack 89 ft lbs and the TREs 53 ft lbs

This thread helped me realize it wasn't just me
forum.ih8mud.com

Steering rack movement

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

and this
forum.ih8mud.com

Looking for rubber steering rack bushings, too much feed back in steering from polly

forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

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old design
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new design

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Is there anybody who has done this on an 1HD-FTE? Will the rack come out with the engine in place? Where are you finding Toyota racks for $700? Cheapest I can get is $1900. 2001 HDJ100..
 
l3n0x said:
Is there anybody who has done this on an 1HD-FTE? Will the rack come out with the engine in place? Where are you finding Toyota racks for $700? Cheapest I can get is $1900. 2001 HDJ100..
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Try partsouq.com. Search based on the 6-character build code found on the door VIN plate: I.e. mine is UZJ100L-GNPEKA.

This is the list of HDJ100s:

PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World

PartSouq.com Auto Parts Around the World
partsouq.com partsouq.com
 
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