How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway. (5 Viewers)

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yeah im only doing the standalone 6l90 because i already have the gen3 LM7. @Megadoomer the trans ECU is actually IN the trans on the newer ones, and you really just need TPS and engine rpm to run it. I think you turn your auto trans off on your gen 3 computer then run and tune the internal ecu on the trans to work since the 58x operating system wont talk to the gen 4 trans. Its a pretty sweet setup. @BurntToast AA does have a 6l90e adapter for trans to toy t case, but like Matt said, if you dont have a gen 3 motor in hands already, its way smarter to just get a newer gen4 or LT motor that came with the 6l80/6l90 to begin with
 
What?! Advance adapter didnt care?! hahaha man its crazy that theyre like the only place to get these adapters. For cars there are SO MANY vendors for adapters for motors to trans and bellhousings. Did you just make your spacer the same length as the amount they wanted you to cut the output shaft?
Nope they don't care. Also unless you know beforehand when you get the adapter you also need a rear reluctor ring in the 4l80 most don't have it because the rear speed sensor is in the gm transfer case. So make sure you account for that when getting the 4l80 transmission. I did a work around that works but it more wiring and more parts.
 
so complete gen3 with 6l80/90 will still work mechanically, and have modern TCU and cruise control also? or is it the same issue with adapter length that was just discussed on the prior page
 
so complete gen3 with 6l80/90 will still work mechanically, and have modern TCU and cruise control also? or is it the same issue with adapter length that was just discussed on the prior page

6l80 is gen 4
 
this thread is getting very off the original topic, for a basic semi-budget DIY conversion I still think the basic gen 3/4l60 or Mark's kit to H42/55f is the way to go in terms of cost/ease/fitment.
 
Yeah for ease and cost, if you want a 6l80/6l90, definitely start with a gen4 motor. you can mix and match but it gets expensive and time consuming after that for sure
 
Since I dont kno where else to ask. Anyone know if the twin stick/vacuum shifter delete has any issues with the V8 swap transmissions? Maybe a bracket or two need fab?

I will say if you stick with the stock vacuum shift, I sell a cheap pivot bracket that makes it a bolt-together deal on a 4l60. The vacuum setup already has twin-stick functionality from Toyota :meh:
 
I will say if you stick with the stock vacuum shift, I sell a cheap pivot bracket that makes it a bolt-together deal on a 4l60. The vacuum setup already has twin-stick functionality from Toyota :meh:
I do plan a major order/phone call to you once I lock in my donor engine lol! Whether I keep or change from vacuum is tbd, just didn’t know if the twin stick kit needs a specific transmission boss like the stock one I just took off
 
what bumper is this?

Also baller write up. Just ordered engine mounts and my neighbor(owns a dismantler) is grabbing a LS combo for me.
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Also baller write up. Just ordered engine mounts and my neighbor(owns a dismantler) is grabbing a LS combo for me.

Heck yeah man! Youre going to love the drivability after the swap!

The bumper is from @TRAIL TAILOR here on the forum. He’s got options for hoops on it and recessed lighting as well. The fairlead is recessed into the bumper. It’s pretty freaking sweet!
 
FYI…. It’s been like 2 degrees here in Memphis. Lokar cable shifters freeze. Where the cable goes into the cable housing down on the trans had ice all over it making the truck not be able to be put into gear until the ice was knocked off. Wouldn’t have that problem with the linkage one hahaha
 
FYI…. It’s been like 2 degrees here in Memphis. Lokar cable shifters freeze. Where the cable goes into the cable housing down on the trans had ice all over it making the truck not be able to be put into gear until the ice was knocked off. Wouldn’t have that problem with the linkage one hahaha

Do you think it was the outer sheath shrinking down on the inner cable, locking it in place? Or some other failure?
 
Do you think it was the outer sheath shrinking down on the inner cable, locking it in place? Or some other failure?
There was a thick chunk of ice on the part where the cable enters into the cable housing down on the trans. I just chipped it off with a screw driver and it worked fine
 

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