Don’t know if there was an LT1 in 87? Could be wrong
How to LS Swap a FJ60 or FJ62. Quick and dirty guide for regular folks wanting to do an engine swap in their driveway. (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter dbbowen
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Is that an LT1? I was told it is. Again, I'm not seasoned mechanic. Just trying to learn how to do all of this.
If it is an 87 is a L98 I think, maybe 240hp. Lots of work to put an old Chevy engine in an old toyota
Thank you for sharing. I don't need a lot of work. It's already a lot of work to do a swap from what I've read. I definitely don't need to add more to it.
It is, but if you’re taking it in exchange for money owed, I hope you’re not owed much.
Yeah... so I have learned. Thank you for confirming that!
- Thread starter
- #289
I just realized i never included a section in here for a trans crossmember so here is a good idea on how to do one. This is on a fj40 im working on right now but the same exact setup can be done for a 60 super easy.
The L brackets on the frame are 3/16 thick 1.5x1.5 i believe. You do one on the outer and one on the inner then two on the crossmember itself.
On the cross member you can cut a little pie shaped piece out of the tubing and bend the uncut side and it wil form your angle instead of cutting it completely. A 45* angle would be a pie cut out with an 22.5* angle on each side if that makes any sense.
Weld tabs on the bar to have the bolts of the trans mount run through the tabs instead of going through the cross member. This signifigantly increases the strength of the crossmember as its kept intact. Most of the weight is on the crossmember and the tabs are just to allow the studs on the trans mount to go through.
Also clean the mill scale better than i did. My welds got kinda weird looking because i didnt really grind the mill scale off.
Crossmember upside down. This is showing the gusseting of the tabs and the horizontal adjustment slots. These werent really needed to be honest but they look cool.
Crossmember before end caps.
Fully encapsulate the crossmember with weld to keep moisture (and rust) out.
Here it is all installed. Notice the joints on the bottom flat portion as they bend up 45* these are not welded. The metal is bent here using the cut technique i talked about before. My mig welds on the frame were not that great.
Allow ample room to the driver side of the crossmember instead of kicking it up to give you space to run your Y pipe or muffler or resonator right here
Make sure you space the crossmember to be under the yoke of the front drive shaft. This will act like a skid plate and protect it.
The L brackets on the frame are 3/16 thick 1.5x1.5 i believe. You do one on the outer and one on the inner then two on the crossmember itself.
On the cross member you can cut a little pie shaped piece out of the tubing and bend the uncut side and it wil form your angle instead of cutting it completely. A 45* angle would be a pie cut out with an 22.5* angle on each side if that makes any sense.
Weld tabs on the bar to have the bolts of the trans mount run through the tabs instead of going through the cross member. This signifigantly increases the strength of the crossmember as its kept intact. Most of the weight is on the crossmember and the tabs are just to allow the studs on the trans mount to go through.
Also clean the mill scale better than i did. My welds got kinda weird looking because i didnt really grind the mill scale off.
Crossmember upside down. This is showing the gusseting of the tabs and the horizontal adjustment slots. These werent really needed to be honest but they look cool.
Crossmember before end caps.
Fully encapsulate the crossmember with weld to keep moisture (and rust) out.
Here it is all installed. Notice the joints on the bottom flat portion as they bend up 45* these are not welded. The metal is bent here using the cut technique i talked about before. My mig welds on the frame were not that great.
Allow ample room to the driver side of the crossmember instead of kicking it up to give you space to run your Y pipe or muffler or resonator right here
Make sure you space the crossmember to be under the yoke of the front drive shaft. This will act like a skid plate and protect it.
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Looks really nice. Ever thought about adding a skid plate or something to prevent such a hard edge to catch?I just realized i never included a section in here for a trans crossmember so here is a good idea on how to do one. This is on a fj40 im working on right now but the same exact setup can be done for a 60 super easy.
The L brackets on the frame are 3/16 thick 1.5x1.5 i believe. You do one on the outer and one on the inner then two on the crossmember itself.
On the cross member you can cut a little pie shaped piece out of the tubing and bend the uncut side and it wil form your angle instead of cutting it completely. A 45* angle would be a pie cut out with an 22.5* angle on each side if that makes any sense.
Weld tabs on the bar to have the bolts of the trans mount run through the tabs instead of going through the cross member. This signifigantly increases the strength of the crossmember as its kept intact. Most of the weight is on the crossmember and the tabs are just to allow the studs on the trans mount to go through.
Also clean the mill scale better than i did. My welds got kinda weird looking because i didnt really grind the mill scale off.
Crossmember upside down. This is showing the gusseting of the tabs and the horizontal adjustment slots. These werent really needed to be honest but they look cool.
Crossmember before end caps.
Fully encapsulate the crossmember with weld to keep moisture (and rust) out.
Here it is all installed. Notice the joints on the bottom flat portion as they bend up 45* these are not welded. The metal is bent here using the cut technique i talked about before. My mig welds on the frame were not that great.
Allow ample room to the driver side of the crossmember instead of kicking it up to give you space to run your Y pipe or muffler or resonator right here
Make sure you space the crossmember to be under the yoke of the front drive shaft. This will act like a skid plate and protect it.
- Thread starter
- #291
Honestly, this is one im doing for someone for basically free so not for this one. Im planning on redoing my crossmember like this though and would like to do exactly what you are saying. Im currently using the s***ty advance adapter crossmember that i beefed up and its less than desirable haha
- Thread starter
- #292
Another option for cruise control to keep it period correct and Toyota, the second gen 4Runner has a steering wheel with cruise buttons built into it. Wiring it will still need the relays in the cruise post, because they send a ground signal… but the wiring will be very similar and straight forward. It’s got all of the buttons on it too so no need for dash switch. Here’s a photo for an example.
If you prefer a leather steering wheel, the mk3 supra uses the same wheel but with leather.
If you prefer a leather steering wheel, the mk3 supra uses the same wheel but with leather.
Is this a bolt on solution? Splines the same? Also any idea what the diameter is compared to stock?
- Thread starter
- #294
Its probably a bit smaller than stock. Id say probably slightly smaller than hte fj62 wheel too. The splines on every toyota vehicle from 1980-2000 seem to be the same. Ive had a AE86 wheel on my fj60, a 4runner wheel, and a camry wheel has been on there before too.
- Thread starter
- #295
Heres a few ideas for how to do your crossover pipe with pie cuts. I started with short radius pies then got lazy and opened them up to bigger pieces once i was clear of the driveshaft. This is on a fj40 but the same concept applies to a 60 or really anything. On this 40 after the resonator we are going to kick 90* into the middle with the muffler then exit out the passenger rear side. waiting for the muffler in the mail
Anyone put a 5th gen into their 60? Might have a lead on a solid low mile 5th gen with 8 speed
Emailed Advanced Adapters and this was the answer. Seems insane that they wouldn’t plan for new LTs
Totfab has a adapter for the 80 series tcase. The 5th gen is a bit more difficult to service and repair fyi.
True, trouble is 3rd and 4th gens are going on 10-20 years old. Soon you won’t be able to find a donor with less than 200k miles
If I was only able to find a high mileage 3rd or 4th gen then I would get a 3rd or 4th and do a light rebuild. Have the bores honed, fresh rings, reuse the pistons, new oil pump, and put it back together. The pistons and bores seem to barely wear much. I dont like the oil control land oil drain design of the stock pistons though. If reusing i would drill some holes in the oil control lands for better drainage. Or I would go for glory if i had a bit more money and put a stroker kit in it with a truck norris cam. Turn a 6.0 to a 6.8. This is my biggest regret is that I didn't do a stroker kit in my motor. Stroker kits aren't too expensive at all compared to buying a crate motor. The power of the 5th gen would be cool too if its in the budget. It seems like its more expensive and more complicated. I think the 8 speed is over rated too. So many speeds may provide a very smooth driving experience, but it seems a little unnecessary. Usually that many speeds are used for small turbo motors like eco boost type engines that have narrow power bands. The LS has a large power band. I really don't think any more than 6 speeds is necessary. That's just my opinion though.
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