How to front locking hubs. (1 Viewer)

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Is there a good, right to the point, thread or video on converting front drive flanges to locking hubs on an FJ80?

Something about a new location for the snap ring groove, or spacers, or short axles.

I looked around a bit and came up empty. I'm not interested in "part time kits" as I'm not running the oem transfer case. I have selectable 2wd or 4wd.

I saw one video of a t100, but it has a bolt and washer in the end if the shaft, and no snap ring. That guy just removed the bolt and slapped the hub on. What keeps tge axle from moving inward?

Looking to install them primarily for flat towing it.

Thanks.
 
Is there a good, right to the point, thread or video on converting front drive flanges to locking hubs on an FJ80?

Something about a new location for the snap ring groove, or spacers, or short axles.

I looked around a bit and came up empty. I'm not interested in "part time kits" as I'm not running the oem transfer case. I have selectable 2wd or 4wd.

I saw one video of a t100, but it has a bolt and washer in the end if the shaft, and no snap ring. That guy just removed the bolt and slapped the hub on. What keeps tge axle from moving inward?

Looking to install them primarily for flat towing it.

Thanks.
FJ80 as in 1991-1992?

Or 93-94
Or 95-97?

It makes a difference on the front hubs.

You get Aisin hubs, install them, and place the lock ring in the correct groove.

As long as you buy the correct set of hubs for your year, it's simple.

There are two different thicknesses of drive flanges. Early 91-94 ones are short, late ones are long.
If you're doing this to reduce driveline issues, you're best to place it on a dolly backwards do you only turn the wheel and not the entire driveline and transmission. If you tow it forward you should leave engine running, transmission in neutral so the pump runs. There's a flat towing section in the FSM.
 
The correct length free-wheel hubs are not available from AISIN as those need to be ? 8mm taller/longer than some earlier models that have the shorter CV joints (stub shafts). So the later models with the longer CV joint shafts need an extra snap ring groove machined into the shaft in order to use currently available AISIN free wheel hubs.

Of course if all you do is install Free Wheel hubs on the front axle you've just disconnected the hubs from the CV joint and axle shafts; those will continue to turn along with the front driveshaft unless you also remove that driveshaft or you have some type of part-time transfer case??

Here's a link that has a lot of other links on the same subject:


Here's one from the thread above with good photos:


Here's one showing how to grind a second snap ring groove:

 
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FJ80 as in 1991-1992?

Or 93-94
Or 95-97?

It makes a difference on the front hubs.

You get Aisin hubs, install them, and place the lock ring in the correct groove.

As long as you buy the correct set of hubs for your year, it's simple.

There are two different thicknesses of drive flanges. Early 91-94 ones are short, late ones are long.
If you're doing this to reduce driveline issues, you're best to place it on a dolly backwards do you only turn the wheel and not the entire driveline and transmission. If you tow it forward you should leave engine running, transmission in neutral so the pump runs. There's a flat towing section in the FSM.
Pretty sure it's 94. I have parts from a 96 also, and didn't realize there's a difference. I think I have them sperated right. Thanks for the info.

Are there differences beyond the drive flange and axle length. How much longer/taller are they? 8mm?

And we're gonna try to work out of a pile of toyota truck hubs already on hand 1st. But it sounds like there are more variables than we've anticipated
 
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Pretty sure it's 94. I have parts from a 96 also, and didn't realize there's a difference. I think I have them sperated right. Thanks for the info.

Are there differences beyond the drive flange and axle length. How much longer/taller are they? 8mm?

And we're gonna try to work out of a pile of toyota truck hubs already on hand 1st. But it sounds like there are more variables than we've anticipated
Just the thickness of the drive flanges and birfield shaft length.
 
When I installed front locking hubs I bought the appropriate Asian hubs and a set of birfs from Nitro Gear and axle.

The nitro birfs have 2 grooves so they work perfectly with the Aisin hubs.

This was a few years ago and I needed to source flush mount zerks as the shafts are drilled so you can pump grease into the birf directly from the end of the shaft. However the zerks supplied interfered with the locking hub.

These birfs are chromolly which makes them more resistant to failure but it also means they will wear faster in an AWD situation. But since I was partiming the truck anyway I wasn’t concerned about the shortened life and saw it as an overall improvement for what I use the truck for.
 
If you're doing this to reduce driveline issues, you're best to place it on a dolly backwards do you only turn the wheel and not the entire driveline and transmission. If you tow it forward you should leave engine running, transmission in neutral so the pump runs. There's a flat towing section in the FSM.
Not sure what you're referring to when you say "pump".
Folks have been flat towing full time 4wd 80s for the last 20 years without issues. Engine off, transmission in park, transfer case in neutral.
The oil pump for the transfer case is driven by the rear output shaft, so if the rear wheels are on the ground while towing, the pump is pumping oil in the case.
 
Not sure what you're referring to when you say "pump".
Folks have been flat towing full time 4wd 80s for the last 20 years without issues. Engine off, transmission in park, transfer case in neutral.
The oil pump for the transfer case is driven by the rear output shaft, so if the rear wheels are on the ground while towing, the pump is pumping oil in the case.
Sorry, I wasn't thinking about transfer case in neutral.

I was thinking of transmission.

Thanks for the clarity.
 
When I installed front locking hubs I bought the appropriate Asian hubs and a set of birfs from Nitro Gear and axle.

The nitro birfs have 2 grooves so they work perfectly with the Aisin hubs.

This was a few years ago and I needed to source flush mount zerks as the shafts are drilled so you can pump grease into the birf directly from the end of the shaft. However the zerks supplied interfered with the locking hub.

These birfs are chromolly which makes them more resistant to failure but it also means they will wear faster in an AWD situation. But since I was partiming the truck anyway I wasn’t concerned about the shortened life and saw it as an overall improvement for what I use the truck for.
RCV's have two grooves as well.
I had the same issues with the zerks too
 
Looks like both sets of my drive flanges measure about 34 mm. So my 94 must be after the change.

20230726_172226.jpg
 
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I do think the end of my axle is interfering with the back side of the hub slightly.

I figure shortening the axles .020 or so won't be an issue, but is that common too?
There are no bolts or gasket in this, but you can see the clearance issue


20230726_173123.jpg
 
If I’m not mistaken the zirks I used were m8x1.25 flush mounts.
I just pulled them off and put them in a spot that i remember. than put them back on when needed.
 
I tried cutting a groove in the splies with my carbide parting tool, but the interupted cut and hardness was proving to be too much for that method.

So, i knew a grinder and cutoff wheel would have no problem. But how to do it?

Here was the setup I used to cut the new grooves. I did switch back to the parting tool to clean up the bottom corners if the grooves. I just used existing groves as my reference and moved over 8mm.

20230730_085122.jpg


20230730_090041.jpg

20230730_091734.jpg
 
Nice work!!
A hose clamp can help mark and keep a straight line 😉
 
Nice work!!
A hose clamp can help mark and keep a straight line 😉
This is how I did mine when I went to the Aisin hubs over the AVMs. Worked great!
 

BILT4ME quote "There are two different thicknesses of drive flanges. Early 91-94 ones are short, late ones are long." end quote​

Just as an FYI on the 94 model, the change over happened in April of 94 (build date) that's when Toyota changed over from short to long drive flanges on the front hub
If the OP has a 94 He'll want to check his build date on his vin sticker on the drivers door
 
CV's for 80's that have ABS are I believe the 8 mm longer ones but I'm sure experts here will say if that's right or not.

I've got those in my 3/92 80 (pre-ABS) since at the time I couldn't get earlier version HDK's and had to make a new groove on each. But otherwise swapping drive flanges for Aisin hubs (do not use any other brand like AVM, etc. and make sure to get genuine Aisin's not Chinese knock-offs) is as simple as replacing each drive flange with an Aisin hub and then remembering you don't have constant 4wd anymore. My 80 is factory part-time so has no CDL in the hf1a transfer and is almost always set to H2 unless I'm going to be off-road and need 4wd mode.
 

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