How NOT to restore the FJ40

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<i agree, keep to the facts, the readers can grasp the truth>
those groves in #6, what did cause them? broken ring or do you think they were there from before the last rebuild?
i had never heard of turning the butt end of a crank to remove the groving ... interesting.
 
Dang Jim, that is pretty bad already. Can not wait to see more pics.

I got one here kinda like that, PO had taken it to a shop while he was overseas fighting for us. Well, 15,000 later he had 10-20 lbs of bondo to include on the frame hiding holes. Both the PO and CO are not happy campers right now. But the shop is out of business.
 
similar here, i posted a thread a couple years ago about a BJ43 that came up from the States. $30K and i wouldn't give the owner $2500 for the truck. sure was purdy.
i have a 70 that a customer has sunk tens of thousands into that wasn't complete and wasn't worth $3000.
side note:
i have seen small shops that do excellent work, i have seen huge licensed shops that shouldn't be in business.
i have seen backyard mechs that do excellent work and i have seen the usual crap backyard.
a license doesn't mean you are good, no license doesn't mean you are bad.
it is the person you are hiring to have the work done, not the piece of paper.

carry on.
 
those groves in #6, what did cause them? broken ring or do you think they were there from before the last rebuild?
i had never heard of turning the butt end of a crank to remove the groving ... interesting.

The grooves in the 4,5 & 6 cylinder wall are from the wristpin sliding out of the piston and dragging against the wall. I personally have only seen this type of damage once before, also in a truck that was perfeshunnaly rebuilt out in a PacNW state. But that was like 15 years ago.

Turning the seal surface, or at least hitting it w/ the belt, is not uncommon. It is up to the machine shop to figure out that removing .004 is OK, but .040 is not. With the crank chucked in the crank grinder, it only takes a moment. Doing a proper repair with a speedi-sleeve is more difficult and more expensive.
 
i have found that speedy sleaves wear pretty quick, i get them spray chromed and remachined at the same time the crank work is being done. seems to last very well.
.040?? ouch.
 
I agree, which is why I never use a speedisleeve.
My method is: deburr & polish the rough surface, test fit with new seal, confirm that the wear groove is not underneath the new seal lips, then proceed w/ reassembly.
 
:popcorn:

Very interesting thread.

Both are frustrating, but there is a difference between a mechanic destroying a vehicle through incompetence or by intentional deception. This appears to be both.

My condolences to the CO.
 
The response from PO was that no further assistance or information would be forthcoming, and any other communication should be to his attorney. A fake attorney email address was CC'ed in that email for dramatic effect.

Holy carp!

I'm addicted (subscribed).

:popcorn:
 
The stock 2F motor was rebuilt keeping it stock but adding some performance. The CR was raised, the cam has a more aggressive profile.
The stock 145HP was taken to 200HP, still able to run 87 octane. The original emissions equipment is intact."

Let's stop there for a moment and consider this achievement. Stock USA carb, stock intake & exhaust, stock emissions, stock ignition all in place. But HP was increased by 38%. This is a miraculous accomplishment.

Its the chrome man, chrome makes it go faster.




Must be a problem in the cylinder.
Turn the crank to get #6 to BDC and grope around inside the cylinder.
Whoa, there is a trench in the cylinder wall!


And there's one in the next cylinder and trenches in the next cylinder.

Saw that first picture and immediately thought to myself "that trench looks almost as if someone machined it in there."

Turns out, that is essentially what happened.
 
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Thanks Jim,

Also subscribed.

Thanks, John
 
Looking around, it is noted that the engine restoration included reinstalling several years worth of leaking oil shmutz on the front of the engine, which was then painted over w/ black rattle can to protect it.

Thanks for the great tip - I've got leaking oil shmutz on my timing gear cover - never occurred to me it could be protected with rattle can. Heck - maybe EP would even be better :grinpimp:
 
If you want to see more quality builds like this, then you should check out these ebay listings:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...gory=6443&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1#ht_1784wt_1165

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...gory=6443&ssPageName=WDVW&rd=1#ht_1329wt_1165

It's surprising that someone who flips this many land cruisers can make so many "mistakes". I interviewed one of his ex employees once, needless to say I did not hire him...


Hah, I contacted him on the red 40 and asked him about the other ones he had in the shop...since I knew someone on mud was looking for a 45. $13,500 for a 100% rust free truck sounded a little iffy...his response back to me asking about them was "i don't have any information on the other rigs yet" found that odd...if you have them how can you not have info?
 
EDIT: decided to delete this post since it's not applicable to Tech.

Major Nelson, note that the 45 you're referring to is on Seattle craigslist. Seems fishy.
 
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being that the compression wasnt too far off....i wonder what the compression would have been...

thats far to bore it out...leaving no room for further rebuilds...are the pistons matching? or are they non-matching to the size of the cyls?

i wonder if the clys were scored and bad to begin with and they had to go that far...either way...too far

has the head been shaved?
 

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